THAT'S it. Keep on the jump 

 as well as on the job. There 

 will be days, perhaps even 

 weeks, when the warm weather 

 will suggest "knocking off," but don't 

 succumb to the temptation or you will 

 be either worked to death or discour- 

 aged in July and August. Pertinent 

 paragraphs for June consideration fol- 

 low: 



Amid the Flowers and About the 

 Lawns 



^IKq fMoniixs ^QmindQr 



JUNE— A MONTH TO KEEP ON THE JUMP 



small in paper bags. See that the 

 foliage is so distributed, and, if neces- 

 sary thinned, as to enable the fruit 

 left unbagged to receive plenty of sun- 

 light. 



Set out seedling plants 

 started in thecold frame, 

 or the seed-bed last 

 month or the latter part of April. To 

 get the quickest growth, always use a 

 little "starter" (bone meal, or bone and 

 tankage or dried blood) where each plant is to be set. 

 Remember that flowering plants need just as care- 

 fully prepared soil as vegetables if they are to thrive 

 well. Make another planting of Gladiolus. Put some 

 of the bulbs deeper than others, so that they will 

 not all come along at the same time. 



Pinch back for plentiful blooms ! This may sacrifice 

 the first spike of bloom, but it will be much more than 

 made up later. Spare the top and spoil the rest! 



Keep all flowers picked I The plant grows and blooms 

 not to satisfy your sense of the beautiful, but to pro- 

 duce seeds. The way to make it keep on blooming is 

 to prevent its forming seeds. Make a rule never to 

 let a Sweet Pea blossom wither on the vine. 



"Renovate" your bloomed-out flowers. As soon as 

 your Sweet Peas, or other annuals sown from seed, 

 begin to "peter out," cut them back, clean — almost to 

 the roots. Water generously, and as soon as the new 

 growth starts, work in a top dressing, or apply liquid 

 manure. If the plants are treated this way in time — 

 that is, before they begin to actually die — it is often 

 possible to get a new crop of blooms which, if not fully 

 as large as the first, will be prized as much for coming 

 out of season. 



Sow "succession" crops of flowers. Often a single 

 package of seed contains enough seed for the whole 

 season's supply. Gypsophila, Pansies, Poppies, etc., 

 should be kept in supply in this way from early summer 

 to fall. 



Continue to bring outdoors house plants that have 

 bloomed, and plunge them either in a shady corner of 

 the border, or in a coldframe. When obviously neces- 

 sary repot. Abutilon, Azalea, Bouvardia, Genista, 

 Heliotrope, Rhododendron, and others may be handled 

 this way. 



Set out most of the remaining Aster plants. Put a 

 few in pots for extra early bloom and extra size. 



Plant out Carnations and Euphorbias. Cultivate 

 from the first, and in the case of the former pinch back, 

 but don't give too much water. 



Repot, stake and tie up, and pinch back Chrysan- 

 themums as fast as these operations become necessary. 

 The plants are gross feeders and need plenty of fer- 

 tility, but don't give too much water at this stage. 



Sow Calceolaria, Mimosa, and Cineraria. 



Keep Ferns moderately shaded. 



As plants come into bloom, give applications of weak 

 manure water — say a quart to a plant every week or 

 ten days. 



Syringe stock still indoors to keep down the red spider. 



Stake any of the tall-growing perennials that are likely 

 to be uprooted by heavy winds or that sprawl. 



A WEATHER EYE OUT FOR NEXT YEAR 



Take plenty of notes as to the condition of the garden 

 from time to time, the dates of blooming and fading, 

 the effectiveness of certain combinations, the weak 

 spots that you will want to remedy by rearrangement 

 during fall and next spring. 



Keep the lawn mower sharp and well-oiled and use 

 it often. Better set the blades a little high and trim 

 lightly twice a week, than let the grass grow long and 

 then cut it way back close to the roots to save time. 



Keep the window boxes from drying out. The double 

 bottomed affairs are especially useful because they can 

 be filled up to last over a period of enforced, unavoid- 

 able neglect. 



\\ henever a heavy rain washes out a bit of the path 

 or drive, or threatens to cut a gully down a grassy 

 bank or across a piece of lawn, repair the place immedi- 

 ately. The extent of the injury from repeated events 

 of this kind increases unbelievably. 



Mulch newly set trees of which the foliage is not broad 

 or dense enough to shade the cultivated ground around 

 them. Don't try to grow bedding plants or even grass 

 around them — or if you have to, wait until they are 

 thoroughly established and able to fight for all the mois- 

 ture they need against the surface feeders. 



The grass edges along paths, borders, etc., look much 



The Reminder is to "suggest" what may be done during the next few weeks. Details of how to do each item 

 are given in the current or the back issues of The Garden Magazine — it is manifestly impossible to give 

 all the details of all the work in any one issue of a magazine. References to back numbers may be looked 

 up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request), and the Service Department will also cite 

 references to any special topic if asked. 



When referring to the time for out door work of any sort New York City at sea level in a normal season is 

 taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the season advances northward 

 fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles from New York, would be about ten 

 days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwes,t about a week earlier. Dr. Hopkins (page 20, 

 Feb. issue) also estimates an allowance of four days for each one degree of latitude, for each five degrees of 

 longitude, and for each four hundred feet of altitude. 



17-YEAR LOCUSTS NEAR YOU? 



Horse Sense Views of June Work 



1. Keep the growing crops 

 growing fast, and give them every 

 necessary attention during their for- 

 mative, vegetative stages. When they 

 begin to mature you can leave them 

 alone; they can do that themselves. 



2. Don't leave ground idle; 

 as quick as one crop comes out put 

 in another, even if it is only a catch, 

 green manure crop to add to the 

 humus content of the soil. 



3. The more favorable the con- 

 ditions are for crops, the better they 

 are also for weeds; therefore increase 

 the amount and thoroughness of 

 your cultivating in proportion to your 

 feeding, watering, and caring for the 

 soil. 



better if trimmed frequently than if left until they are 

 unkempt and then given an entire, severe going over 

 which leaves them looking raw and stiff. 



Watch out for suckers from the roots of grafted plants, 

 especially Roses. Cut them off as soon as discovered; 

 also any adventitious shoots that appear along the 

 trunks of ornamental trees. 



Prune, or rather trim (i. e. cut out the old wood) the 

 shrubs on which the blossoms have come and gone. 

 This will remove the ugly dry seed pods, and also per- 

 mit the plants to make a strong growth for next sea- 

 son's flowers. 



-? 



TRANSPLANT NOW? WHY NOTf 



Of course this isn't the recommended time for trans- 

 planting, but it is a fact proved by the success of more 

 than one enforced experiment, that practically 



ANYTHING CAN BE MOVED AT PRACTICALLY ANY TIME, 



provided the entire root system is never allowed to dry 

 out, from the time when the digging starts until the 

 plant is established in its new location, maybe six weeks 

 after the moving operation. Of course this means 

 extra effort, but if you want results out of season you 

 can get them if you are willing to pay for them! 



In Orchard and Fruit Garden 



Destroy tent caterpillar nests together 

 with their occupants; anytime between 

 sunset and sunrise will find most of them 

 at home ready to be crushed or burnt 

 out. A plumber's blow torch is highly 

 effective and works so fast that it does- 

 less damage to the trees than the old fashioned kerosene 

 torch. But of course care is needed in either case. 

 The point is: get after the caterpillars while they — and 

 their nests — are small. 



Pinch back young blackberry and raspberry canes 

 about the end of the month, after cutting out close 

 to the ground any that are clearly not needed. Rasp- 

 berry canes should be headed back to about three feet 

 in length, blackberries to not more than four. 



Keep after the currant worm with arsenical sprays 

 until the berries begin to swell, then substitute helle- 

 bore. 



Make one last search for borers in the peach trees 

 before replacing the soil around them that you removed 

 late last month when on your first borer hunt of the 

 season. 



Keep the grapes cultivated, sprayed, tied up on the 

 trellis, and trimmed back where they threaten to run 

 to wood. For extra fine fruit, free from insect injury 

 or traces of disease, tie up a few bunches while still 



210 



If you are in a locust section (you 

 can find this out by asking the U. S. 

 Department of Agriculture) cover any 

 young fruit trees — and ornamental 

 deciduous sorts too — with cloth net- 

 ting or any other handy protector as 

 soon as any of these noisy insects 

 make their appearance. This year 

 is to be celebrated by the simultane- 

 ous emergence of two swarms of these creatures, 

 more accurately known as periodical cicadas; one is of 

 the 17-year variety which went into retirement in 1902, 

 the other is a 13-year brood. Fortunately they do not 

 actually attack any plant — indeed the adults do not eat 

 at all; but in laying their eggs the females often injure 

 trees, especially small ones, by puncturing the bark 

 of their twigs in the course of their egg laying operations. 

 It is this that is to be guarded against where the insects 

 are numerous. 



Continue to thin fruit whenever you discover crowd- 

 ing. Of course the sooner you do it, the less the growth 

 and vigor wasted in the fruits you remove. 



Stake young trees if they are tall for their age and top 

 development, or subjected to the force of heavy winds. 

 Every time a small tree is swayed, especially a re- 

 cently planted one — it is loosened in the soil and, prob- 

 ably, some of its new, tiny, tender roots are broken. 



Plow up the old strawberry bed that has produced two 

 crops and use the land for some late season, cultivated 

 crop. Keep the one year old bed, that may still be 

 bearing, well cultivated; or if it is mulched keep the 

 mulch renewed. Netting may still be needed to protect 

 the ripening fruit from birds. 



Use bordeaux mixture, a poison, and some sort of 

 contact spray generously. The only excuse for not 

 spraying all tree fruits at least twice this month is 

 absolute knowledge and proof that your grounds are 

 wholly free of all insect enemies and plant diseases. 

 In other words there is no such excuse. 



Where the Vegetables are Growing 



Plant and sow succession crops con- 

 stantly. Whenever a row is cleared 

 spade it up, working in some general 

 fertilizer and bone meal, and have 

 something else growing or germinating 

 , there within the week. A good rule 

 'for peas, lettuce, radishes and carrots 

 is: Sow a succession crop just as soon as the preceding 

 one shows above ground. But about the end of this 

 month stop sowing radishes — except the White Icicle 

 sort — and also peas. They cannot do themselves justice 

 during hot weather. 



As soon as it is definitely safe to do so, bring out into 

 the open ground practically all your seedlings — cab- 

 bage, lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and the 

 other tender sorts which must have as long a season as 

 possible. Leave, say, a dozen of each kind in the hot- 

 bed so that if anything happens to those set out within 

 a fortnight, you will have material for replacements. 

 In setting out cabbage or related crops, if there is 

 real danger of maggot or club root, try puddling each 

 plant in a mixture of wood ashes one part and water 

 three parts. 



This is planting time for all the main crops — celery, 

 cabbage, cauliflower, etc. It is sowing time for the fall 

 crops of long season things — again cabbage, but kale, 

 and collards as well — and of crops for summer use, 

 such as turnips, New Zealand spinach and others. 



Set out sweet potato plants in a warm situation and 

 warm, sandy, well manured soil. 



Stop cutting asparagus as soon as peas are coming 

 in freely. Work in a top dressing of fertilizer or give 

 a good application of liquid manure, then start culti- 

 vating with the idea of keeping it up for a month or 

 six weeks at least. 



Keep the soil around the beans loose at all times — 

 except, do not cultivate or even handle the plants when 

 they are wet. If you want a mess for dinner wait till 

 the sun dries them oiF; and if it is a misty or rainy day, 

 decide on some other vegetable. 



Tomatoes should either be trained carefully and given 

 frequent attention, or left to their own devices from the 

 very first. Those that are to be trained should be 

 taken in hand at once and pruned, supported, and tied 

 up to a trellis or to individual stakes. 



Spray the potatoes about three times this month, 

 preferably just after a rain so the poison will remain on 

 the leaves for the longest possible time. 



Plant a crop of cucumbers to be picked small for 

 pickles. 





