314 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



June, 1919 



IMPOSSIBLE! 



No garden is impossible with the SUB- 

 PIPE SYSTEM OF IRRIGATION. 



No more worry about drought. Your lawn 

 and garden more beautiful. Your fruits, 

 vegetables and flowers more productive and 

 profitable. Water when you need it with no 

 loss through evaporation as the underground 

 system feeds the roots directly. Think of what it 

 means. Easily and economically installed. Sci- 

 entifically constructed. The latest in irrigation. 

 Write for circular. 



THE WESTERN IRRIGATION CO. 



P. O. Box 1338 Tulsa, Okla. 



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7] IMP SOAP 



iSPPAY 



Sure Insect Killer 



IMP Soap Spray is a scientifically prepared compound 

 that is destructive to insects without injuring plants 

 or roots. Does not spot leaves, fruit, grass or deface 

 paint work. It is clean and colorless. May be used on 

 fruit trees; shade trees; flowering shrubs; vines; garden 

 truck; and on all sorts of plants, both under glass and 

 out of doors. 



It is most effective against rose bug; mill [bug; white, 

 black, green and rhododendron fly, red spider: thrips; 

 aphis; fruit pests; elm leaf beetle and moths. Used in 

 country's biggest orchards and estates. Very economical, 

 one gallon is mixed with 25 to 40 gallons of water. Full 

 directions on each can. Genuine can has Ivy Leaf 

 trade mark. Your money back if Imp Soap Spray 

 does not do as claimed. Order direct if your dealer can- 

 not supply. 



Pint can $ .50 Gallon can $2.25 



Quart" -75 5 " " 10.00 



10 Gallon Can 18.00 



Sent by express at purchaser's expense. 



F. E. ATTEAUX & CO., Inc., Props. 



Eastern Chemical Co. 

 176 Purchase St., BOSTON, MASS. 



Dealers Wanted. 



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ROUND 

 rOVtEPLjOf 





Sow Mangel Seed. — In a rich spot in the 

 garden sow a packet of mangel seed. Just as 

 easy to grow as beets except that the seeds should 

 be dropped not closer than five inches apart be- 

 cause the mangels grow much larger than the 

 largest beets. Mangels make excellent winter 

 feed for poultry. They are easy to store also. 



Day Old Chicks— During the last ten or 

 fifteen years a very important development of 

 poultry raising has been the day old chick busi- 

 ness, as it is called. The chicks are hatched in 

 large incubators and sold, shipped, or delivered 

 within a week to people even as far away as a 

 thousand miles. It is a thoroughly satisfactory 

 method of raising young flocks provided the 

 buyer already has experience in chick raising. 



On a large scale it is necessary to have a brooder 

 and to employ the artificial chick methods. Many 

 readers of The Garden Magazine will not want 

 to raise as large a number as would make the 

 purchase of a brooder desirable. They will need 

 only twenty-five to fifty or perhaps one hundred 

 chicks altogether. To raise these hens may be 

 relied upon. It is necessary, however, to buy 

 the chicks in only such quantities as can be 

 handled by the number of hens available. Each 

 hen should be kept setting on artifical eggs for a 

 few days or even for the whole normal period of 

 incubation — three weeks — so that perhaps 

 twenty-five or fifty chicks may be bought at a 

 time. The chicks may be given to the hens in 

 exactly the same way as if the hen had hatched 

 them. 



Hens as Mothers.— In the note Hens as 

 Hatchers we discussed hatching to within a day 

 or two of the actual hatching Now we will 

 continue. As soon as the hatch begins the shells 

 from which the chicks have escaped should be 

 removed so they will not fit over the remaining 

 eggs and thus prevent other chicks from emerging. 

 The hen may do some of this but it is always 

 advisable to examine every egg to make sure she 

 has missed none of these empty shells. Such 

 examination should be made two or three times 

 during the first day of hatching Every chick 

 should be removed, placed in a flannel lined box, 

 and taken to a warm room such as the kitchen. 

 The hen will thus remain upon the eggs still in 

 the nest, whereas she might leave with Only part 

 of her brood. Thus better hatches may be ex- 

 pected. 



It is not necessary, nor is it advisable, to give 

 thechicks anything to eat untilthey are more than 

 twenty-four hours old. It will do them no harm 

 to wait thirty-six or forty-eight hours before the 

 first feed, because they will be provided with a 

 store of food in the form of the yolk of the egg, 

 which has been surrounded by their tissues and 

 is capable of sustaining them for ten days without 

 harm. 



Water may be given within twenty-four hours 

 and must be supplied from that time forward. 

 It must be in a shallow vessel so thechicks cannot 



wet themselves or do more than place their beaks 

 in it. 



The first feed may consist of crumbled hard 

 boiled eggs either alone or mixed with bread 

 crumbs. This should be fed as early in the morn- 

 ing as possible and every two hours throughout 

 the day up until late evening, no food being 

 allowed to remain longer than fifteen or twenty 

 minutes because it might become sour and be- 

 cause the chicks should be fed at regular intervals 

 rather than continuously. After the third or 

 fourth day minced onion tops, lettuce, or other 

 soft vegetable material may be given; and also 

 millet seed, finely cracked wheat or cracked corn 

 may be added. 



The brood should be given to the hen at night. 

 She should first be liberally fed so she will be 

 contented, then she should be placed in the coop 

 she is to occupy with the brood and the chicks 

 should be added one at a time, preferably with 

 the gloved hand shielding them as they are given 

 to her. If she pecks she will thus not hit the 

 chick and only slightly hurt the hand. In a 

 short time she will settle down with the brood and 

 be all right by morning. 



The coop should be in a dry place where the 

 chicks may run out during dry weather and after 

 the dew is dried on the short grass. They will 

 thus get vegetable matter as they need it. The 

 position of the coop should be changed daily and 

 that of the run every two or three days so there 

 will be no danger of fouling the ground. From 

 the very start the hen should be well fed with 

 a different kind of food from that given thechicks; 

 first of all to keep her contented and secondly to 

 get her back into laying condition as soon as 

 possible. Often she may begin to lay before she 

 leaves her brood if handled in this way. After 

 the first week the feeds may be three hours apart 

 and when three weeks or a month old, four hours 

 apart. When this second reduction is made, 

 however, it is advisable to place a hopper filled 

 with dry mash in the coop so the chicks may help 

 themselves. It is also advisable to have finely 

 sifted charcoal, ground bone, and gravel or grit 

 for both hen and chicks. 



Effect of Inoculation on the Crop 



T3ECAUSE of the vigorous and uninterrupted 

 ■*-' growth of the peas and beans when inocu- 

 lated the product of the vines is of surpassing 

 tenderness, succulence and sweetness. Retarded 

 growth always means toughness as contrasted 

 with the tenderness which goes with quick 

 growth. 



And because there is an oversupply of nitrogen 

 the beans and peas will be richer in protein, for 

 it is a fact that the quantity of available nitrogen 

 determines, within certain limits, the quantity 

 which goes into the seed in the form of protein. 



And because of the added nitrogen and of the 

 extra humus due to the more vigorous growth of 

 plant and roots, the crops which follow will be 

 more vigorous, more healthy, yield better, and 

 their product have that same added quality 

 which comes with favorable conditions of growth. 



Advertisers will appreciate your mentioning The Garden Magazine in writing — and we will, loo 



