14 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



February, 1909 



-March 1st. In full flower six -weeks after starting 

 growth in a temperature of 40° 



At the early flowering period under glass 

 there will be no bees to do the pollenating, 

 and in order to insure a good set of fruit the 

 flowers should be gone over each day about 

 noon with a camel's hair brush to carry 

 the pollen to the stigma. A light touch to 

 each flower is all that is needed, and it is 

 a surer way to set the fruit than merely 

 shaking the tree to cause the pollen to fall. 



If the trees have been kept clean and 

 healthy a great many more fruits will set 

 than can be successfully brought to maturity. 

 For the first year's forcing two dozen nec- 

 tarines, one and a- half dozen peaches, and 

 ten to twelve pears or apples will be ample 

 for a crop. Of course, as the trees grow 

 larger year by year the crop may be increased 

 proportionately, and eventually, with care- 

 ful feeding, may be expected to carry suc- 

 cessfully from sixty to seventy- five fruits; 

 but with a greater number the size of the 

 fruits would have to be sacrificed for 

 cjuantity. 



"Thinning" is, therefore, resorted to, but 

 this should not be done all at one time. 

 It is preferable first to pick off all the de- 

 formed fruits and those which are found in 

 the angles of the branches where they could 

 not properly develop, and to single them 

 where they arc set in pairs. After this 



first thinning those remaining will grow 

 very fast, and one can more easily deter- 

 mine which to pick off. 



At this period (about March 15th) the first 

 "disbudding" should be attended to. Nec- 

 tarines and peaches produce so many wood 

 buds that if all were left the growth would 

 be too thick for good results. Therefore 

 remove all wood buds not necessary to 

 preserve the symmetry of the tree, and to 

 grow into shoots for producing the next 

 year's crop. 



As it is not desirable for a pot tree to 

 attain great dimensions, it is best to treat 

 them on what is known as the "replacing 

 system," that is, to grow a new shoot from 

 as near as possible the base of the fruiting 

 wood, and pinching back the terminal shoot, 

 allowing it only a few inches of growth in 

 order to insure the flow of sap to the fruit; 



March 31st. The final thinning and disbudding 

 done. These three photographs are of the same tree 



then, when the fruit has been gathered, 

 the old wood can be cut out, leaving the new 

 in its place. This will be the only pruning 

 needed if attention is paid to pinching back 

 the strong shoots, not allowing one or two 

 to develop at the expense of the others. The 

 fruit also will be much better if the wood is 

 not allowed to grow too thickly, for the sun 

 will color it and not only add much to the 

 beauty of its appearance, but also add to its 

 flavor. 



After the fruit has been gathered the 

 trees must not be neglected, but placed out 

 of doors in an open space, plunging the 

 pots about half-way in the earth. This 

 will serve the two purposes of preventing 

 the wind from blowing them over and of 

 keeping the roots cool and moist. 



The trees should be taken out of the pots 

 each winter and the soil reduced, and fresh 



drainage put in the bottom, taking great 

 care, after adding all the fresh soil needed 

 to fill the pot within three inches of the top, 

 to firm the soil thoroughly with a short 

 wooden rammer. No larger size than 

 sixteen-inch pots would be needed for 

 several years, but then a shift into eighteen- 

 inch tubs would be best. For top-dressing 

 as growth develops each season the same 

 soil, with the same proportion of quarter- 

 inch bone, should be used as was used in the 

 original potting. 



The best fertilizer to use is a liquid made 

 by diluting fresh cow-manure. It should 

 be used sparingly during the stoning period, 

 but at other times a good application should 

 be made at least once a week. 



PITFALLS TO AVOID 



All stone fruits have three distinct periods 

 of development: (i) the "first swelling," 

 (2) the "stoning," and (3) the "second 

 swelling" and ripening periods. 



The stoning period lasts about forty days, 

 and during this time the fruit gains but very 

 little in size. If the trees are over-forced or 

 unduly excited with fertilizers during this 

 time imperfect stones will result, sometimes 

 causing the fruit later on to split open, and, 

 in any case to ripen prematurely. There- 

 fore great care must be taken to keep an 

 even temperature, with abundance of fresh 

 air during the day, and even a little air at 

 night will be beneficial. 



The trees must also be kept perfectly 

 clean and free from red spider, thrips, and 

 other pests. The best way to accomplish 

 this is by copiously spraying with clear water 

 both morning and afternoon on all bright 

 days from the time the fruit is set. How- 

 ever, should mildew appear (which is not 

 very likely), dust the affected parts with 



May 31. The crop matured. Several fruits have 

 been picked already, Early Rivers nectarine 



