14S 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



April, 1909 



of an appearance 

 during the first year, 

 but if they are con- 

 centrated into a 

 group the difference 

 in the effect will be 

 surprising. In course 

 of time trees in 

 groups will have 

 grown to such an 

 extent that some of 

 the individuals can 

 be dispensed with, 

 and can in all likeli- 

 hood be utilized to 

 good advantage in 

 further extending the 

 area planted. 

 Groups of trees or of 

 shrubs, or both, can 

 in many cases be 

 appropri ately formed 

 close to dwellings 

 and at irregular in- 

 tervals along driveways, as well as near the 

 boundaries. Always bear in mind that a 

 piece of open lawn, to give a feeling of 

 space, is a great factor in the problem of 

 beautifying the grounds. 



When planting trees or shrubs in groups 

 the effect produced will be much more 

 pleasing if, instead of placing them in a 

 regular or artificial manner, as one at each 

 corner of a square or around a circle or 

 within the limits of any other figure, they are 

 disposed of in such a way that they will show 

 some of the peculiarities seen in nature. This 

 can best be accomplished by planting irregu- 

 larly and having regard for graceful, sweep- 

 ing curves in the outline of the mass rather 

 than for symmetry of form. The distance 

 between the trees of a group must, to a 

 great extent, depend on the size and spread 

 of the trees; but the effect will be more 

 immediate if they are planted rather 



Far better to take out and cart away the poor soil, especially such as is thrown out from building 

 operations. Dig over all soils before planting 



closer to each other than will be eventu- 

 ally needed. 



Planting in rows is often a necessity along 

 highways and streets bordering an estate; 

 and rows or even double rows of trees may 

 be required to effectually hide an ugly build- 

 ing, high fence, or some other equally objec- 

 tionable eyesore, but there can be no excuse 

 or reason for planting in this way on a lawn. 



Single specimen trees, after attaining con- 

 siderable size, are grand and imposing 

 objects, and every garden should have at least 

 one, planted so far apart from its neighbors 

 that the individuality may be retained and its 

 development proceed unhindered. A speci- 

 men tree must be trained up from its youth. 

 Specimens may appropriately be placed 

 behind and in front of groups, and here and 

 there in front of lines of trees bordering 

 lawns and roads. 



When planting in groups a distance of at 



least two feet be- 

 tween the plants is a 

 good working rule, 

 but their actual dis- 

 position must to 

 quite an extent de- 

 pend on the char- 

 acter of each kind as 

 to robustness and 

 habit of growth. 



On small places 

 shrubs are often 

 planted singly in the 

 grass, but they are 

 not so effective as 

 when planted in 

 groups or borders. 



The majority of 

 the flowering shrubs 

 can be purchased in 

 sizes from two to 

 four feet for twenty- 

 five cents up to one 

 dollar. 

 The Japan barberry (Berberis Thunbergii) , 

 is one of the handsomest little shrubs in cul- 

 tivation, and perhaps the most generally 

 useful. It will grow and thrive in almost 

 any soil or situation. The leaves are 

 oval, bright green in early summer, 

 turning to the most brilliant shades of 

 orange and red in the fall. I cannot too 

 highly recommend it for planting in 

 masses as well as for forming compact 

 dwarf hedges that will need little or no clip- 

 ping to keep trim. 



Japanese maples are beautiful little trees 

 with finely cut foliage in many colors. They 

 look well when planted singly, in rows, or in 

 groups on small lawns. Good varieties are: 

 atropurpureum (blood red) ; atropurpureum 

 dissectum (also blood red, but of low droop- 

 ing habit with delicately cut leaves); poly- 

 morphum aureum (golden leafed), especially 

 pretty in early summer. 



Planting the Home Vegetable and Fruit Garden— By w. c. McCollom,?:; 



WHAT TO DO NOW TO INSURE CONSTANT SUPPLIES OF FRESH VEGETABLES AND FRUITS ALL 

 SUMMER WITH PLENTY FOR WINTER STORAGE— HOW TO PLAN FOR GREATEST EFFICIENCY 



I. BIG CROPS OF VEGETABLES FROM A MINIMUM OF SPACE AND LABOR 



THE only practical way to plant a veget- 

 able garden is to first plan it, and know 

 exactly what the successions are to be; for 

 the perfect vegetable garden produces two 

 crops a year in nearly every part. It is less 

 labor to work thus than to cultivate and 

 keep weeds from double the area. Of equal 

 importance is the feeding. An enthusiastic 

 amateur once consulted me as to how much 

 manure he should use on his garden of about 

 half an acre, and was astounded when I 

 informed him that I used ioo loads 

 in my garden of about one and a half 

 acres. 



To make the plan, take a large sheet of 

 paper and lay out the garden area to scale. 



Divide it into four plots, calling them by 

 numbers i, 2, 3, and 4. 



This is a natural subdivision in the veget- 

 able garden. One plot ( our No. 4) is devoted 

 to the permanent crops; one (No. 3) to the 

 warm or tender plants that are started in heat 

 elsewhere while the other two plots are 

 designed to supplement each other. No 

 garden is even in soil, etc., and therefore the 

 section that is highest, warmest, or best 

 drained and consequently the earliest, is 

 marked off as No. 1, to receive the earliest 

 sowings of the hardy vegetables. The 

 accompanying diagrams show how the 

 average garden should be planted, giving 

 the various vegetables in proper ratio. The 



quantities necessary for any given family 

 will vary somewhat. Do not make the 

 mistake of sowing all the seeds at one time, 

 for the greatest benefit that one derives from 

 one's own garden is the constant supply of 

 fresh, young vegetables all the season. 

 This result can only be achieved by succession 

 sowings. In the present plan I make no at- 

 tempt to tell you how much of each vegetable 

 you should grow — that is a problem for the 

 individual. How to estimate the necessary 

 length of rows for the required yield was given 

 in The Garden Magazine for March, 1908. 

 Begin the preparation of the first plot as 

 soon as possible (say last of March) by 

 spading under a very liberal quantity of 



