Vegetable Planting Table for the South*— By s. Prentiss Baldwin, 



AN EXACT SCHEDULE OF INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF FRESH VEGETABLES FROM NOVEMBER 1ST 

 TO MAY 1ST— SPECIALLY ADAPTED TO SOUTHERN ALABAMA, SOUTHERN GEORGIA AND UP TO SAVANNAH 



A GREAT point to remember, in produc- 

 ing vegetables for winter, is, that as 

 the seed progresses, instead of increasing 

 daylight and increasing heat, the days are 

 growing shorter and the heat less, so that 

 the outdoor crops must reach approximate 

 maturity in November. They will make 

 little growth after that. 



Another point is that we are near the edge 

 of the frost line, where one year we enjoy 

 summer weather and roses all winter, and 

 perhaps the next year experience severe 

 frosts. I have marked some vegetables 

 "Almost hardy," those which may go 

 through a winter out-of-doors, but are much 

 more sure crops in cold-frames. 



A third point is that most of the planting 

 must be done in the heat of August and 

 September, when the young seedlings should 

 be protected from much direct sun. 



This table is based on the needs of ten 

 persons. From this the gardener may esti- 

 mate, according to his special needs and 

 taste. 



The distance apart for rows is based on 

 hand cultivation. If desired, all rows may 

 be three feet apart to permit horse culti- 

 vation. A small garden, very deeply culti- 

 vated and thoroughly enriched, will produce 

 better vegetables and is more easily cared for 



than a large area. Root crops, especially, 

 require a deep soil. 



Buy the best seeds. Upon planting seeds, 

 whether outside or in flats, always protect 

 them from the sun until the plants appear. 

 Seeds need moisture and heat, to start, but 

 do not need sun. Boards may be laid over 

 the rows; paper, cloth, or other covering 

 used ; and the same boards may be propped 

 up on the south side of the rows to shade 

 the young plants. 



In this climate, many vegetables do better 

 if planted on low ridges or mounds a few 

 inches above the level to provide better drain- 

 age. Crops may be hastened by planting 

 on the south slope of ridges, a foot or more 

 high, or may be held back by planting on the 

 north slope. 



An excellent plan for winter, to catch the 

 heat and hasten the crop and at the same 

 time furnish protection from frost and a 

 mulch between the rows, is as follows: 



"Plant the row to run east and west, 

 then prop up a board on the north side of the 

 row at an angle of 45 degrees over the plants, 

 admitting the south sun. Another board 

 may lie flat between the rows, except when 

 frost threatens, when it should be tipped 

 up over the row against the north baard, 

 making a complete frost-proof cover." 



Sufficient water, applied when needed, 

 is better than frequent small applications. 

 In hot weather, apply in the evening. In 

 cold weather, apply in the morning. Water 

 sparingly when cold delays growth. 



To prevent injury from frost, hberal use 

 of cloth for covering should be made in 

 small, compact gardens. Smudge fires, of 

 pine covered with wet straw, may be main- 

 tained through the night and should con- 

 tinue until middle forenoon. Frosted plants 

 should be shaded from the sun in the morn- 

 ing, and be sprinkled with cold water. You 

 can be quite sure of frost coming when the 

 thermometer is down to 40 degrees and the 

 air clear and calm. 



To adapt this table to use farther north 

 to Charleston will require little (if any) 

 change of time of planting, but more use of 

 cold-frames; and such vegetables as horse 

 radish, rhubarb, celery, and salsify, which 

 suffer much from heat, may be added to the 

 list. 



A planting table can not be absolutely 

 true for everybody; but if you will set a stake 

 at the end of each row with the name and 

 date of planting and keep some memoran- 

 dum of results, you can easily correct the 

 schedule to suit your particular needs after 

 only one season of trial. 



NAME 



VARIETY 



WHERE AND WHEN TO PLANT 



QUANTITY 



DIRECTIONS 



Jerusalem a r t i - 





Outside, March i 



200-foot row 



Hardy Perennial 



choke 





Ready in 6 to 8 months 





Plant tubers 6 inches deep 

 Rows 5 feet apart ; 2 feet apart in row 

 Light soil and sun 

 2 quarts tubers to 100 feet 

 Fine for soup or boiled and creamed, or 

 salad or pickles 



Asparagus 



Palmetto 



Outside December 

 Ready in February 

 or March 



300 plants 



Hardy 



Plant 2-year roots 



Rows 2 feet apart 











8 inches deep ; i foot apart in row 

 Rich and moist mulch with manure all sum- 

 mer, salt well 



Beans 



Valentine or 



Cold-frames or greenhouse 



60-foot row each time 



Tender 





Refugee or 



September i, and every 2 weeks 





Seeds 2 inches deep 





Golden Wax 



thereafter 

 Ready 6 weeks 



• 



Rows i| feet apart 

 4 inches apart in row 

 Not too rich soil 

 I quart for 150 feet 



Beets 



Eclipse or 



Outside September i 



loo-foot row each time 



Hardy 





Crimson Globe 



Outside October i 

 Ready 9 weeks 





I inch deep 



Rows I J feet apart 



Thin to 4 inches apart 



Deep soil, no fresh manure 



I ounce to 50 feet 



Soak seed over night 



Chard 



LucuUus 



Cold frame September 15 



100-foot row 



Almost hardy 



Grow like beets 



Use outside leaves, leaving crown to grow 



Use for greens, or leaf stalks like asparagus 



Brussels sprouts 





Seed-bed August i 

 Transplant outside 



September 15 

 Ready 4 months 



200 plants 



Hardy 



Seeds ^ inch deep 



Rows 2 feet apart 



I J feet apart in row 



Cultivate like cabbage 



I packet of seed enough ^ 



*The author wishes to make acknowledgments to Mr. W. Velvick and Mr. F. Jenkins, both of whom have had long, successful experience in Southern Georgia. 



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