October, 1910 



THE GARDE N M A G A Z I X E 



121 



Lilacs are better planted in the fall ; so are Rosa 

 rugosa, lonicera, and many splreas. They all 

 start growing early 



characteristics of the diiJerent varieties, it is 

 well to let some reputable nurseryman ad- 

 vise them which items in their hsts may be 

 safely planted in fall and which had better 

 wait until spring. 



To sum up, for very many kinds of trees 

 and plants fall is just as good or a better 

 time to plant them, while for others spring 

 is unquestionably the only safe time to move 

 them. Judgment must be exercised in this 

 regard just as much as in other problems that 

 concern the garden. 



Morrisville, Pa. Wm. H. Moon Co. 



Spring for Most Things 



I prefer spring planting. It seems to me 

 spring planting has the best of the argument. 

 The plea is that time is saved by fall planting. 

 It is just as easy to maintain that time is 

 saved by spring planting. 



Some things may be planted safely in the 

 fall, and a few things better. However, no 

 planting plan can be followed ; in other words, 

 to plant part in the fall and part in spring 

 would so much interfere with any general 

 planting plan that nothing would be gained. 



There are only a very few evergreens that 

 can be safely planted in the fall. Junipers 

 and Japanese yews are among these, but I 

 have noticed that spring-planted ones are 

 just as far along a year afterward. We have 

 tried rhododendrons and kalmias planted in 

 the fall and can only report failure. 



We have found a few deciduous trees and 

 shrubs do better planted in the fall, before 

 the leaves drop. Planted in September, 

 they make a few new roots. This much is 

 gain, and the principle to be worked on. 



I should always be disposed to try fall 



|>lanting for such trees as move badly in 

 spring time. Trees which start slowly, like 

 hawthorns and crabapples, especially those 

 which do not make new leaves early enough 

 to do the plant's work, are in this category. 

 Li(|uidambers and tupelos move poorly at any 

 lime, but better in the early autumn. Elms, 

 ])Ianes, larches, taxodium, willows, po|)Iars, 

 birches, and tulip trees move well in the fall. 



Among shrubs we have found that all that 

 can be moved with a good ball are safely 

 moved in the autumn. These include deut- 

 zia, lonicera, philadelphus, lilacs, viburnum, 

 symphoricarpos, barberry, privet, and wei- 

 gela. 



Wellesley, Mass. J. D. Hatfield. 



Spring the Natural Time 



At a convention of farmers, the ques- 

 tion as to which was the better man- 

 ure, horse or cow, was under discussion. 

 Opinion was so evenly divided, even among 

 those known to be successful and practical 

 men, that the chairman was non{)lussed. 

 Finally a bright idea struck him, and he 

 requested all those whose farms were of a 

 sandy nature to stand up. Lo and behold! 

 all the advocates of cow manure were on 

 their feet, while the horse-manure champions 

 remained seated. Here was the whole 

 secret; the cow manure — a cold manure 

 • — was the best for the hot sandy soil, and 

 the heating horse manure for the colder 

 clay. So it is with the question of when to 

 plant trees, shrubs, etc.; soil and climate 

 conditions influence success. 



Certain trees — the tulip tree, magnolia, 



Spring is the better time to plant rhododendrons 

 and kalmias 



Plant the magnolia, also the tulip tree and beech, 

 in spring. They have soft, fleshy roots 



and beech among them — are almost sure to 

 fail if planted in the fall, while success may 

 be obtained if we wait until spring. One 

 might infer from this fact alone that spring 

 is the natural time to transplant. 



Again, in the fall the activities of the tree 

 are almost dormant; there is no active force 

 at hand to battle against unfavorable con- 

 ditions. It is the reverse in the spring; the 

 renewed activity gives a new life and force 

 to the plant. The natural activities of the 

 expanding of the leaf buds, and the rise of 

 sap, carry the vitaUty of the tree forward, 

 and enable it to combat with unfavorable 

 conditions. A tree, transplanted, is like 

 a patient that has just undergone a severe 

 surgical operation; a large part of its main 

 roots, and perhaps all of its feeding ones, 

 have been amputated. It is a critical time 

 of its life, and in order to survive, all con- 

 ditions must be favorable, and those con- 

 ditions are more apt to exist in the spring 

 than in the fall. 



My soil is a heavy clay loam. If a tree 

 hole is made in the fall, and filled in, and a 

 late wet season follows, the soil, not being 

 dense and compact, becomes very wet and 

 mushy, and would be apt to smother the 

 roots of anything planted in it. The tree 

 roots, being inactive, cannot take up any of 

 the moisture to amount to anything, and thus 

 no relief of the undue saturation can be had 

 from that quarter. While it is essential 

 that established plants go into winter quar- 

 ters with some moisture of the roots, a soil 

 saturated with water would be fatal to them. 

 If this is so with an established plant, it 

 certainly would be with a newly planted one. 

 On sandy soils or a well-drained one many 

 trees can be planted in the fall with success, 



