How Big Chrysanthemums Are Grown— By i. l. Powell, 



YOU MUST BEGIN NOW TO THINK ABOUT THE BLOOMS YOU WANT A YEAR HENCE — WHAT 

 IS EASIEST FOR THE AMATEUR TO ATTEMPT, AND HOW THE "SHOW" BLOOM IS PRODUCED 



New 

 York 



THE expert chrysanthemum grower's 

 rule is that when one year's crop 

 comes into bloom it is time to think of 

 the next. The point is that then — say 

 October — he can begin to see the result 

 of his past year's work and, consequently, 

 set about intelligently making plans for 

 the ensuing year. Each season, in short, 

 his chrysanthemum crop is the task of a 

 twelvemonth. 



If the amateur really wants to sound 

 the possibilities of the chrysanthemum, 

 he, too, must figure on thinking a year 

 ahead. For one thing, October and 

 November are the time to settle the ques- 

 tion as to what varieties shall be grown 



If single specimen blooms of first-class size and 

 siiapa are to be shown in pots, select the low- 

 growing kinds 



another year. Some may have proved 

 not worth while, either in themselves or 

 for a specific purpose, and then again the 

 round of exhibitions and private displays 

 always discloses some desirable acquisition. 

 It is the note-book, therefore, that begins 

 the year. 



The first actual step toward the ensuing 

 season, is the selection and setting aside 

 of the healthiest plants that have pro- 

 duced the best bloom; these to be used 

 as "stock plants" for propagation. As 

 soon as the blooms are cut, store these 

 stock plants in some cool, light, and well- 

 ventilated spot that is convenient for 

 watering. A sheltered and well-protected 

 coldframe is an excellent place if cuttings 

 are not to be taken before February ist. 

 When they are required so early as the 

 first of January, place them in a green- 



house where a temperature of 45 to 60 

 degrees can be maintained. 



Bush plants and standards require the 

 first thought, an early start being neces- 

 sary to produce large specimens. Get the 

 first lot under way before the end of the 

 year, the second about January 20th, and 

 third in the neighborhood of February 

 15th. First-class bush plants, much less 

 standards, cannot be grown if started 

 after March ist. Three sets of cuttings 

 virtually eliminate all risk of total loss 

 by such accidents as the making of flower 

 buds in March, which may happen in 

 the case of early propagated plants in- 

 tended for large specimens. As a rule, 

 only a few of these plants are wanted, 

 and the small amount of space required 

 for the extra cuttings will not be missed. 

 The plants not needed for training may 

 be grown on for simpler decorative effects, 

 or for cut flowers — or discarded alto- 

 gether. In selecting varieties for bush 

 plants, pick out those having a vigorous 

 but rather dwarf habit of growth, moder- 

 ately heavy foliage, a strong stem, and a 

 full flower of fine color. Comparatively 

 few of the many varieties in cultivation 

 will make good bush plants or standards. 



When the cuttings have roots from a 

 half-inch to an inch long, pot in two or 

 three inch pots, using three-fifths loam 

 and one-fifth each of sand and leaf mold, 

 with a little sphagnum, and a few pieces 

 of charcoal in the bottom for drain- 

 age. Water thoroughly, and thereafter 

 with proper judgment. Repot frequently 

 enough to prevent the plants from be- 

 coming pot-bound, taking special pains 

 as to drainage. Eight-inch pots are large 

 enough for the last shifting before the 

 plant goes into the one in which it is to 

 flower. This may be ten, twelve, or four- 



teen inch. The last is not too large for 

 healthy plants. At the last potting add 

 some fertilizer. 



Meanwhile, the training of the young 

 plant in the way that it should grow 

 must begin when it is only two or three 

 inches high. "Stop" it then, by pinching 

 off the end of the growing stem, so that 

 it will send out branches from below. 

 When these branches have made from 

 three to five inches, they, in turn, must be 

 " stopped." This process, with the tying 

 that soon goes hand in hand with it, lasts 

 until the end of June or the first week 



Pompons make admirable pot plants and should 

 be grown more. They reauire no disbudding 



166 



This bush is not highly trained, but is sufficiently- 

 symmetrical for the window and the easiest form 

 for the amateur to grow 



in July, in the case, say, of a bush trained 

 in the popular hemispherical form. More 

 "stopping," of course, makes more flowers, 

 but they will not be so large and the 

 foliage will be smaller. Many shoots 

 will produce flowers four or five inches 

 in diameter, even though the plant is 

 carrying two or three hundred of them, 

 when "stopping" is discontinued before 

 July ist. Then it will have assumed its 

 proper form, though on a reduced scale, 

 and all that remains to be done after the 

 flowering growths have been made is to tie 

 them in the position that they are naturally 

 inclined to occupy, no bending or twisting 

 of the shoots or branches being required. 



If rightly done, "stopping" almost 

 produces the right form, but small stakes. 



