March, 1911 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



85 



On a curve expansions may accommodate a sundial 

 or seat 



and dignity in a broad walk when ail 

 else is in proportion. In a half-acre plot 

 a width of 5 feet might be desirable. 



Red gravel, burnt ballast, bricks, and 

 tiles are warm in tone, contrasting well 

 with the grass and harmonizing with the 

 flowers and their foliage. Granite chips, 

 cinders, tarred gravel, shell gravel, and 

 cement are cold and uninviting, and should 

 only be used when other materials are 

 unobtainable. 



Red gravel (of the right kind which 

 binds well), bricks, tiles, tarred gravel, 

 and cement make paths with a close, hard 

 surface. Burnt ballast, stone chips, 

 cinders, and shell gravel never bind 

 thoroughly, and therefore make paths 

 with a loose surface, which, apart from the 

 unpleasant feel underfoot, implies that 

 much loose material will adhere to the 

 boots and be carried upon the grass, 

 with disastrous results to the knives of 

 the mower. 



Though paths, as a rule, should be made 

 of equal width throughout, it is sometimes 

 advisable when they are of any great 

 length, and particularly if straight, to 

 introduce at some suitable point an ex- 

 pansion in width to break the line. 



This should be done in one of the ways 

 indicated in the illustration. These ex- 

 pansions may be utilized to accommodate 

 garden seats, sundials, vases or tubs, 

 trees or beds, so as not to appear quite 

 purposeless. 



Expansions of the kind indicated are 

 well placed where a secondary path breaks 

 off from the principal one, or at a terminal. 

 In winding paths they would take a form 

 more in harmony with the lines of the 

 path. 



Although the rectilinear system, as 

 adapted to small gardens, demands that 

 path off-shoots should be made to leave 

 the path at right-angles, the rule does 

 not apply to curved paths, in which all 

 by-paths must leave the main path at a 

 more or less acute angle, the curves of 



both being laid down to form a pleasing 

 combination of lines. 



The use of curved paths, though inad- 

 missible in small plots, is desirable in plots 

 of larger size. 



Curves should be set out in good bold 

 sweeps. Grace of line is only to be ob- 

 tained by a practised eye guided by an 

 intuitive sense of what is pleasing, so that 

 the best achievements in this direction 

 are usually the result of skill, knowledge, 

 and artistic instinct. A hint may be 

 given as to what should be avoided. Thus 

 the curve B in the illustration is better 

 than A. 



Mawson says of garden walks: "They 

 should be arranged in such a way that the 

 beauties of the place may be exhibited, 

 not by a series of wriggles, . . . but 

 in a simple straightforward manner." 



As a rule, these curves are best not 

 modelled on a geometrical basis, *. e., 

 one in which parts of circles do duty as 

 their components. Rely on freehand in 

 the draft, rather than on compasses. 



In laying down such a curved path the 

 novice is too apt to overlook the space 

 to right and left. He should ever bear in 



The junction of two walks affords a place for an 

 expansion 



In laying curves a freehand sweep wiU be better 

 than where parts of circles are used 



mind that his walks subdivide the garden 

 space, and on the course they take will 

 depend the shape of the areas they bound 

 or enclose. Thus in the case of a path 

 skirting the garden boundary the amount 

 and shape of the space between it and the 

 boundary fence must be considered. For 

 instance, it would be bad practise to 

 leave a strip too wide for a border, but 

 too narrow to carry a border with grass 

 in front of it. 



In small gardens it is best to confine the 

 grass to a single area, though circumstances 

 may arise to make it desirable to depart 

 from this rule. In such event the second 

 grass space should be subordinate to the 

 principal one, and if possible reserved for 

 a separate purpose. 



In small gardens the idea of a "lawn" 

 for games is rarely realizable for want of 

 space, and the grass plot, therefore, is 

 treated with other purposes in view. Its 

 functions are more closely related to the 



flowers and general picture. It affords 

 welcome relief to the eye, and by contrast 

 enhances the value of the color effect 

 obtainable with the flowers. 



The grass plot should never be isolated 

 by surrounding it on all sides with gravel, 

 and beware of fretting your principal grass 

 plot into a thing of ragged outline and do 

 not pierce it with a multitude of little beds. 

 Remember also that the simpler in shape, 

 the less difficulty you will experience in 

 mowing it and keeping it trim and neat. 



Beds in grass are best grouped at one 

 or two points, and the components of the 

 group should be shaped so as to produce 

 unity of effect. Compare the two ex- 

 amples illustrated below. 



It is generally better that the outlines 

 of the group should preserve a parallelism 

 with those of the grass plot, as this ensures 

 a more harmonious effect. 



The principal shadows should fall upon 

 the grass, where they will be welcome as 

 shade, and will not preclude the growth 

 of good turf. Small detached grass spaces, 

 if unavoidable, may be made interesting 

 by planting them with bulbs, for effects 

 in spring and early summer. Or utilize 

 the space for a sunk rock garden, or make 

 a central group of beds upon it, which in 

 the case of a square space becomes an 

 attractive secondary focus. 



Give proper access to all grass spaces. 

 This implies that the borders should not 

 bar the way which appears to be the most 

 natural one of reaching the grass. Neglect 

 of this consideration may tempt those 

 who use the garden to skip over the borders. 

 It is well to provide means of access to 

 the grass at all points from which it is 

 likely to be approached, by bringing it 

 up to the path at those points. This is 

 done by curtailing the border some three 

 or four feet at its end, or by breaking 

 through it at some point in its length. 



In dealing with grass spaces of irregu- 

 lar outline, such as would occur where 

 the paths are winding, the placing of the 

 beds should take into account the out- 

 line of the grass space. For instance, a 

 square group of beds set in a curved 

 promontory would produce a discordant 

 note. Better to adapt the shape of group 

 to the space in which it is set. 



There is no need to make the grass level 

 if the ground has a natural slope. On 

 the contrary, sloping ground greatly assists 

 drainage. 



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Note the disturbing effect of scattering the units 

 of a group of formal beds. The upper plan is better 



