apr.l, 1911 THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 163 



III. — A Planting Table For a Vegetable Garden 60 x 120 Ft. — Continued 





REQUIRED 



PLANT 



TRANSPLANT OR THIN 



HARVEST 



FRUITS AND 



;;. 



■/) 



6 













Plants 













VEGETABLES 



u 



6^ 



S3" 



£0 





Amount 



of 



Seed 



What 



Where 



When 



How 



or 



Seeds 



Apart 



'Inches) 



To 



When 



Space 



ilnchc-,) 



First 



Remove by 



Radish (2) 



6 



4 OZ. 



Seed 



Row 12 



April 15 



Drills 





Remove as 



Chards 



need room 



1 



May 





Radish (3) 



Pla 



nt s 



mall 



amount 



s often 



between a 



ny two rows 



where 



there 



ih 10 in. 



clear sp 



ace 







Rhubarb 



20 



12 



36 





Roots 



Rows Di 

 and D2 



September 

 or March 



Hills 



36 









8 mos. or 

 1 yr. 





Salisfy 



48 





12 



i oz. 



Seed 



Row 11a 



April 15- 

 May ' 



Drills 



li 







2 



July 





Spinach (1) 



63 





12 



f oz. 



Seed 



Row 5 



Aug. 15 



Drills 











Winter 



Mar. 31 



Spinach (2) 



63 





12 



1 oz. 



Seed 



Row 2 



September 



Drills 











Mar. 



May 25 



Spinach, N. Z. 



6.S 





24 



I oz. 



Seed 



Row 14 



May 15 



Drills 



I 









June-July 





Squash, Bush 



63 



15 



36 



2 OZ. 



Seed 



Row 19 



May 



Hills 



48 







3 Plants to hill 



Aug. 





Squash, Winter 



26 



4 



72 



tVoz. 



Seed 



Bet. Rows 

 36b and 37b 



May 



Hills 



84 







3 Plants to hill 



Sept.-Oct. 





Tomato 



S6 



18 



36 



Pinch 



Seed 



Bed AA 



April 20-May 



Drills 



2X2 



Row 32 



June 1 5-30 



36 



July-Aug. 





Turnips 



63 





12 



a oz. 



Seed 



Row 7 



July 1 



Drills 







3 



Sept. 





1/1 

 Id 

 a 

 < 



34' 



SEED BED 

 Ft R 



-Z0' 



L A T E PO T A TO E S 



L A TE POTA TOE S 



29 



LATE POTATOES 



ZZ 



LATE PO T A TOES 



EARLY POTATOES 



CEL£»Y 



2& 



JCARLY POTATOFS 



25 



EARLY POTATOFS 



CABSARE 24 



CAKLY POTATOES 



!USH BEANS 2 5 



CLIC UflBrRS 



2Z 



POLE BEAMS 



21 



POLE BEANS 



2.0 



«' 



BUSH SqUASH 



/9 



BU SH BEANS 



CABBAG.E. /?>v Bush bea/vs 



CAULirLO\^CR /SB 



LCTTUC E 



zrh 



-X-LTTU- fiTr-XAT-Z ' 



h"A BUJ>H BEAMS 



£Pv<, SFLS hPRo 



outs '5B 



N E U/ Z C * 



1% 



sals' ry 



//a pa* 



PARSM / P 



LETTUCC 



C A RROTS 



C A T< ~R. O T 5 



lettuce: 



6T 



Use this plan with the table that precedes it. The fruit area (Row A-l) remains unplowed from year to year 



If you decide to take the accompanying 

 plans merely as hints the following points 

 will serve as useful principles in garden 

 planning. 



(1) Run the rows north and south if 

 possible, to admit the maximum sunshine 

 to every row. 



(2) Keep the perennial crops together 

 in one place which need not be disturbed 

 by the spring plowing. 



(3) If there is any choice, put the tallest 

 vegetables at the north end. They don't 

 shade the others there. 



(4) In successions don't follow one crop 

 with another of the same kind, unless it 

 be lettuce or onions, both of which are 

 less seriously harassed by insects. 



(5) Plant in long rows, not in beds, and 

 save time when cultivating with the wheel 

 hoe. 



(6) Keep vegetables requiring but twelve 

 inches of space together, the same with the 

 eighteen inch ones, and so on. This 

 makes a neater, more convenient garden. 



(7) Make the plan to scale. Mark off each 

 foot of ground on paper. Then when plant- 

 ing, measure the ground just as accurately. 



(8) Use the earliest varieties for both 

 very early and very late crops. Sometimes 

 you can get a crop of corn, radishes or 

 even peas, long after their orthodox season 

 has passed. But don't try to count too 

 much on these successes. Build the plan 

 a little more conservatively, and let the 



special features and experiments be side 

 issues. Keep in mind that in the very 

 little vegetable garden, we are trying to 

 make the most of everything, and can 

 hardly afford experimental risks merely 

 for the sake of the fun they offer. 



(9) In very small gardens, substitute 

 a wire or lathe trellis for the historic 

 bean-poles. It is more convenient, more 

 accessible, and more easily obtained by 

 the city or suburban gardener. In plan 

 No. 1, given above, the beans will be im- 

 mature while the pea vines occupy the 

 other side of the trellis, and will have 

 passed their prime by the time the suc- 

 ceeding tomato and cucumber vines cover 

 the support. 



