26S 



The Readers' Service gives infor- 

 mation about real estate 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



May, 1911 



, 



It's Simply a Matter of Intelligence 

 WHY? 



MENT FROM THE SOAP GA2 



AND PERFUMER: 



"SOAP POWDER MADE BY TH 

 PROCESS LOSES WEIGHT HI 

 BY EVAPORATION UNLESS 

 SEALED IN AIR-TIGHT. MOIS 

 PROOF PACKAGES. SUCH 

 AGES CANNOT BE MADE BY Th 

 METHODS SAVE AT PROHI 

 EXPENSE." 



WOULD any SANE PERSON PAY 5c. a POUND 



-10c. a QUART— 40c. a GALLON for WATER for 



WASHING AND CLEANING— IF ONE KNEW? 



-just what happens when you buy a pack 

 age of Soap Powder because it looks big. 

 Some packages look big because they are 

 Fluffed with Air and when fresh weigh as 

 much as they look because they are Full of 

 Water. Open one of them and see it lose 

 weight day by day as the Water Evaporates^ 

 PEARLINE is Concentrated Soap Powder 

 — to prove it — test PEARLINE as you do 

 the Fluffy- 5 - Look-Big Packages. 

 One Tablespoonful of PEARLINE will 

 do the work of two or three of these 

 POPPED Powders. Popping is all right 

 for CORN and WEASELS but not for 

 Soap Powder. 



Pearline is More Than Ever Best by Test 



Metal Rose Markers 



Rustless Imperishable 



"Once marked, always marked" 



1 1 Li AMTZ) 



Paper and wooden markers soonbecome 



illegible. 



Send for samples and prices. 



The Riker Company 



Newark 



New Jersey 



YOU Need this Book_It ' s FREE 



^^ Every farmer and truck growerneeds a copy of 



Herrmann's 1911 Almanac 



Besides being- full of valuable and interesting data for farmers and fruit 

 growers, it shows the proper way to apply the purest and most efficient 

 Paris Green made — Herrmann's Hi-Grade Pure Paris Green. You'll 

 get the results you expect. Address 

 MORRIS HERRMANN & CO., 80S Fifth Ave., New York. 





4»Av,f LAWN FENCE 







, Many Styles. Sold on trla 1 at 







wholesale prices. Save 20 

 ! to 30 per cent. Illustrated 

 I Catalogue free. Writetoday. 





4^KS£Suii^a^«e** 



| KITSELMAN BROS. 

 ■ B0X350 Muncie v Indiana. 



Taking Care of Your Tools 



IT IS hard and often impossible to do garden- 

 ing with poor tools. The tools may have been 

 good when they were bought, but if they are rusty 

 they are now poor instruments with which to 

 work, and are liable to break. 



The first move is to get off the rust. The usual 

 method is to soak the rusty parts in kerosene. 

 There is nothing known that is better to loosen 

 up rust than common kerosene oil. After- 

 wards clean the rust off with an old brick. 

 You will have to rub hard and long if the rust 

 has eaten in deeply. A better method is to put 

 the kerosene-soaked tool on the grindstone, if 

 you have one, but best of all is a carborundum 

 wheel. It will do more and better work than a 

 whole wagon-load of bricks. One man I know 

 of has a 6-foot grindstone to sharpen his tools. 

 It takes two men to turn the grindstone and another 

 to grind the tools. You can buy a carborundum 

 wheel with a bicycle attachment for seven dol- 

 lars, and with it one man does the whole job. 

 The machine is fitted with two wheels, one me- 

 dium and one fine. The man sits and pedals, 

 holding the tool against the wheel at the same 

 time. For less money one can buy the carborun- 

 dum wheel without the bicycle attachment; they 

 only cost from three to five dollars depending upon 

 the size selected. It takes two men to work it. 



When the rust is all off take some of the cotton 

 waste (which you should always have around) 

 or an old cloth and clean the tools from all dust 

 and grime. Then oil the tool. Don't use a vol- 

 atile oil, such as kerosene. Common machine or 

 lubricating oil is just the thing. If you have an 

 engine or steam pump, the waste oil that runs out 

 from the engine will do very well. With tools 

 that are to be used at once or in a few days a light 

 application of oil will be sufficient. If, however, 

 they are to be put away for the season or for the 

 winter, oil them thoroughly, being particular to 

 cover every vulnerable spot of metal. If you are 

 going to put them away in a damp cellar or if it 

 is an especially damp or tropical climate, dip the 

 tools in melted tallow and the rust just can't get 

 at them. The tallow may be melted on the stove 

 in an old kettle kept for the purpose and the tools 

 dipped in the tallow while it is still hot. This is 

 only necessary in extreme cases. Usually a good 

 oiling with lubricating oil on a clean tool will 

 keep off rust almost indefinitely. 



After the tools are once thoroughly cleaned, 

 insist that they be kept so. Keep old cloths or 

 cotton waste conveniently in the tool room so 

 that every tool may be carefully cleaned before 

 it is put away after each using. It pays on a 

 large scale; it will also pay in our home gardens 

 to keep tools clean. 



Where several men are employed interest can 

 often be stimulated in clean tools by giving each 

 man a hoe, shovel, spade, and trowel for his own 

 use. The men will usually take pride in keeping 

 their own tools clean and bright. 



The best place to keep tools is one which is dry 

 and at the same time convenient. Don't use a 

 damp cellar if you can help it. If you can locate 

 your tool room or tool closet close to a boiler or 

 furnace, do so, as it may save you lots of time in 

 cleaning off rust. Have your tool room one which 

 can be locked. Young and irresponsible members 

 of the family form habits of borrowing valuable 

 tools, and borrowers are usually slow to return. 



If the place is a large one and the tools many, so 

 that hoes, rakes, shovels, and so on that are used by 

 the dozen or half-dozen, have racks built along the 

 walls wherein the whole bundle of one type of 

 tool can be placed and so that each type can have 

 a rack to itself. Put all the different kinds of 

 hoes in neighboring racks and all kinds of forks 

 or spades close together, so that you don't have to 

 look all about your tool room to pick out the 

 tools you need. 



If the place is small and the tools few, an excel- 

 lent plan is to arrange them so that they can be 

 hung up vertically on nails, and to have a separate 

 place for each and every implement. The prob- 

 lem then is how to show just where each tool 

 belongs, what nails to hang it on, so that it can 

 always be found in the same place. 



Probably the simplest plan is to take a flat 

 pencil and mark out the outline of each tool as it 



