July , 19 11 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



349 



ings. It will not cling to wood. This 

 plant requires a little coddling at the 

 start, as it dislikes moving. For this 

 reason it should not be transplanted except 

 when very necessary. Don't let it bloom 

 for the first two or three seasons. Prune 

 in early spring and remove all the very 

 thin, weak shoots and cut back far enough 

 on good wood to produce fine growth. 

 In case of flowering wood appearing, cut 

 it off. It should have a light, but rather 

 sheltered location, and protection by 

 wrapping in straw or burlap for the first 

 two winters, at least. Under good culti- 

 vation it will grow to a height of twenty 

 feet. 



The unfavorable attitude toward this 

 plant is due to its being confused by dealers 

 with another Japanese climber, Schizo- 

 phragma hydrangeoides, which is sent out 

 under the same common name and which 

 is a mere weed by comparison. It can 

 be distinguished by the foliage, which is 

 deeply lobed, while the leaf of the true 

 plant is entire. 



THE POLYGONUMS OR KNOTWEEDS 



The immense drooping panicles of beau- 

 tiful rose-colored, feathery flowers of 

 Polygonum Baldschuanicum make this vine 

 a very desirable one for low trellises and 

 fences. It quickly establishes itself and 



will flower freely the second year from 

 planting, but needs a light location, as 

 it is a quick, soft grower and runs up to 

 a height of ten to twelve feet in a single 

 season. It kills to the ground in severe 

 winters, but when protected, will become 

 woody at the base. It should be cut back 

 to live wood in early spring. 



Another good climbing knotweed tor 

 quick effect, flowering the second season 

 from planting, is P. multiflorum. Il is 

 a heavier grower and the flowers are dis- 

 persed all over the plant, appearing from 

 the axils of each leaf and not in a panicle 

 as in the former variety. Also, it flowers 

 one month later, in September. 



Making Water Effects a Feature — By w. s. Rogers 



SIMPLE WAYS OF USING AN ADJACENT STREAM FOR CHARMING GARDEN EFFECTS 

 — HOW THE GREATEST RESULTS ARE TO BE HAD FOR THE LEAST TROUBLE 



THERE is something so delightful 

 in the living, moving presence of 

 water in the landscape that gardeners 

 may be excused their desire to introduce 

 it into their flower ground. In a garden 

 of limited size the effect which appeals 

 to us amidst natural surroundings is 

 practically unrealizable. At the same 

 time water can be introduced 

 without appearing to be too 

 artificial a feature. 



The making of a water gar- 

 den is a simple matter com- 

 pared with its efficient mainte- 

 nance. The gardener should 

 prepare to give unremitting 

 attention to his water plants 

 and to their artificial homes. 

 This implies frequent chang- 

 ing of water and cleansing of 

 ponds. 



In the case of a garden 

 bounded by a stream at its 

 far end, the probability is that 

 the gardener would have no 

 rights over the water, but also 

 that no objection would exist to his divert- 

 ing some of it through his garden. He 

 might excavate a backwater, say with an 

 extension in the form of a bay, as shown 

 in the illustration. 



By this means he would obtain running 



water (A), and a piece (B) more or less 

 stagnant. The depth need not exceed 

 eighteen inches. The island (C) would be 

 useful for treatment with bold waterside 

 plants and the margins of the backwater 

 and pond could accommodate others of 

 less sturdy growth. Clear spaces should 

 be left for access to the water's edge and 



Fig. 1. Showing a provision for a still lagoon (B). 

 with moving water at A 



Methods of margin treatment of artificial water effects (O and D). Drainage and 

 connecting pools are shown at A and B 



to permit of the plants being seen. A 

 small collection of dwarf hybrid nympheas 

 may be established in the pond (B) and 

 in the backwater, with which might 

 be associated the common native pond lily. 

 Other plants may be added if space per- 

 mits, including such subjects as the pic- 

 kerel weed, the flowering rush, and water 

 buttercup. Typha and swamp mallow 

 might be planted along the fence line at B. 



Irises will thrive at the margin of the 

 water, as well as phlox, trollius, spirea, 

 and a host of others. When all is com- 

 plete and the plants are established keep 

 the entrances clear and remove all rubbish 

 which may find access to the water. De- 

 ciduous trees or shrubs should not be 

 placed near the water. 



In excavating the water bed the sides 

 should slope gently to the edge, or trouble 

 will ensue by the banks breaking away 

 and fouling the water. This also insures 



that the soil is water-logged for some dis- 

 tance from the water's edge, and is there- 

 fore in a condition for supporting a colony 

 of semi-aquatic plants. 



When a stream intersects the garden, 

 the general treatment should be such as 

 to considerably expand the water area, 

 and this may be done by adopting an 

 arrangement like that illus- 

 trated in Fig. 2, in which a 

 lily-pond is made beyond the 

 brook, having inlet and out- 

 let. Bays should be formed 

 on the near side. Communi- 

 cation across the stream may 

 be by a simple bridge, or by 

 stepping stones if the depth 

 of water is shallow. Resist 

 the temptation to give a "rus- 

 tic" character to the bridge. 

 It should be a plain affair well 

 and firmly built, as befits its 

 purpose, and provided with a 

 hand-rail on either side. 



The first consideration will 

 be the planning of the ponds, 

 for such they are, and in that we must be 

 guided by the levels in the garden. 



If there is a distinct slope in the garden 

 surface, so much the better; it will help 



Making a pond of a flowing stream, 

 a bridge over the main channel 



with 



