THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



125 



173. Planting strawberries with a spade, usually the 

 most satisfactory way in the home garden 



richest dirt, then stamp down firmly. The 

 lighter the soil, the firmer it should be 

 tramped. Fill the hole completely and tramp 

 again very firmly. 



Before leaving the tree, throw a few shovel- 

 fuls of loose dirt around it to check the 

 evaporation of moisture; or what is better 

 yet, mulch it well with manure. Generally 

 it is better to use the manure oh top as a 

 mulch than to put it in the bottom of the 

 hole, especially if it is not well rotted or has 

 too much straw. Leave the tree straight, 

 except in some very windy sections, where 

 it may lean several points in the direction 

 of the prevailing wind and will straighten 

 by the time it conies into bearing. 



If planting is done in the fall, bank up 

 with dirt for at least a foot around the base 

 of each tree to throw off water and steady 

 it in the wind. The main point in planting 

 is to take time enough to do a good job. 

 It is cheaper to spend plenty of time in 

 planting a tree well than to re-set because of 

 careless planting. 



BUSH FRUITS 



In planting bush fruits, immediately 

 loosen the bundle of plants received from 

 the nursery and heel them in on the north 

 side of a building or in any cool, moist place. 

 If the roots are very dry, douse them with 

 water or in thin mud before heeling in. 

 After the land is well fitted furrow out the 



row deeply. Plant deeply; more berry 

 plants die from too shallow planting than 

 from too deep planting. Planting is quickly 

 done by drawing earth about the roots with 

 the hands and packing it with the feet. 



Remember that raspberry, blackberry, 

 currant and gooseberry plants should be 

 headed back to meet the loss of roots just 

 as was done with the tree fruits. It is an 

 excellent plan to carry the plants in water 

 when setting. Never leave the roots exposed 



the spade and press the dirt firmly against 

 the roots by putting a foot on either side of 

 the plant and springing slightly on the ball 

 of the feet. In most soils this gives better 

 results than turning out a furrow and planting 

 in that, since the roots are established deeper 

 in the soil. Brush some loose soil around 

 the plant before leaving it. 



Previous to planting remove all the 

 young leaves from the strawberry plants, 

 leaving only two or three of the older leaves, 

 which evaporate less water from the plant 

 than the young leaves. The ends of the 

 roots may be sheared in if they are very 

 long. While planting, carry the plants in 

 a pail of water. It will pay to pour a 

 quart or so of water about each plant of the 

 small fruits after setting, for the purpose of 

 settling the dirt around the roots. 



In the home garden it is usually best, 



174. Press the spade over, opening a crevice 

 deep enough so that the roots can hang down natu- 

 rally. Set the plant a trifle below the crown so that, 

 after pressing down, the crown will be on a level 

 with the surface 



to sun or wind, not even for two minutes. 

 For the home berry plantation, raspberries 

 and blackberries may be in rows six or eight 

 feet apart, with plants set two or three feet 

 apart in the rows. In two or three years 

 each row will be five to six feet wide if 

 unchecked. Each plant may be kept in a 

 hill by planting six feet apart in the row, but 

 the row system is better than the hill system, 

 usually, for the home garden. 



PLANTING STRAWBERRIES 



When you plant strawberries, instead of 

 running a furrow where the row is to be, 

 prepare the ground thoroughly, then push 

 a spade down into the ground to full depth 

 on the spot where the plant should be. 

 Press the spade to one side, insert the roots 

 and spread them out in fan shape, allowing 

 them to hang down their full length. Set 

 the plant so that the crown of buds is just 

 at the surface or a little below. Remove 



175. Compact the soil around the roots. It can 

 hardly be made too firm, except on wet or very clayey 

 soils. Throw Sonne loose dirt around the plant before 

 leaving it. This will help to checK the evaporation 

 of soil moisture which the compacting has set up 



unless the space available is extremely 

 limited, to set the plants in rows three feet 

 apart, with the plants eighteen inches apart 

 in the row. At the end of the first season 

 all the space will be covered with plants, if 

 they are allowed to form runners at will. 

 The "hedgerow" system, in which the 

 plants are set six to twelve inches apart in 

 the row, and not allowed to form any run- 

 ners, is not usually as desirable for the home 

 garden, although often very profitable com- 

 mercially. 



How to Grow Roses Out of Doors— By Aaron Ward % 



DETAILED PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FROM AN AMATEUR WHO GROWS TEA ROSES NEAR NEW 

 YORK WITHOUT GLASS PROTECTION, IN SPITE OF BITTER NORTHWEST WINTER WINDS 



' I ^HE ideal site for a rose garden is sunny 

 *- and free from the close neighborhood 

 of trees or large shrubs. A southern ex- 

 posure is desirable, and, if it is necessary to 

 make a choice, the morning sun is best. 

 Partial shade will do less harm to dark -red 

 roses than to roses of other colors. Some 

 protection from high winds is good, but not 

 at the cost of having a close, stuffy location. 



THE SOIL AND WHEN TO PREPARE IT 



The best soil is a deep loam. Well- 

 drained ground is essential and the site 

 should never have been used for roses, 

 unless fresh earth is' substituted for the 

 old. 



At least three months before planting — to 

 allow time for settling — the soil for the beds 

 should be dug to the depth of two feet and 

 liberally enriched with well-rotted manure; 

 cow manure preferred, though horse manure 

 is good. 



The size of the beds is governed by the 

 following considerations: All the bushes 

 must be readily reached without leaving the 

 walks; the surface of the beds must be 

 accessible in every part for frequent cul- 

 tivation, and the expense and labor of 

 cultivating unnecessary space should be 

 avoided. 



With the exception of the climbers and the 

 Rugosas (which ought not to be planted in the 



beds at all), a space of twenty-one inches 

 from plant to plant is sufficient to meet the 

 above requirements. We accordingly lay 

 out the beds in parallelograms of any length, 

 but with the width limited to five feet. Such 

 a bed should contain three parallel rows, 

 twenty-one inches apart; the outer rows 

 twelve inches from the edge. The paths 

 between beds should be not less than five 

 feet in width, to admit of the passage of the 

 water barrel. If more space is available, this 

 width of path could be increased to ad- 

 vantage. The paths look best if in grass; 

 well -rolled cinder paths are good and save 

 troublesome weeding, and they are the best 

 for wet weather. 



