130 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



September 15th. — Second bloom of hybrid 

 perpetuals begins, but usually it is not 

 very plentiful. 



October 15th. — Prepare new beds for the 

 next spring planting. Remove from old 

 beds any of the mulch that cannot be 

 forked in. 



November 15th. — Commence placing manure 

 protection around roots, tenderest roses first. 



November 30th, or after a nip or two of 

 decided frost, cover up tender roses for the 

 winter. Give the Teas straw overcoats. 



WHEN TO SPRAY THE ROSES AND HOW 



Use the sulphide of potassium in a solu- 

 tion of one-half ounce to one gallon of water; 



arsenate of lead five pounds to fifty gallons 



of water; and only when necessary. 



Mid-April. — Spray roses and neighboring 

 trees. Bordeaux. 



Late April. — Just before leaves open. 'Whale 

 oil, one pound to eight gallons of water. 



May 10th. — Leaves open. Potassium sul- 

 phide. 



May 17th. — Potassium sulphide. 



May 21st. — Buds set. Whale oil. 



May 24th. — Potassium sulphide. 



June 1st. — H.P.'s begin to bloom. Potassium 

 sulphide. 



June 7th. — H.P.'s bloom in quantity. Arse- 

 nate of lead. 



June 14th. — H.P.'s bloom in quantity. Ar- 

 senate of lead. 



June 21st. — H.P.'s bloom in quantity. Whale 

 oil (last application). 



June 28th. — H.T. and T. in quantity. 

 Arsenate of lead. 



July 4th. — H.T. and T., H.P.'s bloom ends. 

 Arsenate of lead. 



July nth. — H.T. and T. in quantitv. Whale 

 oil. 



July iSth. — H.T. and T. in quantity. Potas- 

 sium sulphide. 



July 25th. — H.T. and T., bloom ends. 

 Potassium sulphide solution. 



August 1st. — Potassium sulphide solution. 



August 8th. — Potassium sulphide solution. 



August 15th. — Potassium sulphide solution. 



Is the Summer Hyacinth Any 

 Good ? 



LET me give you a pointer," said our 

 knowing friend, as we were making 

 out our spring order," Don't waste any money 

 on the summer hyacinth! I gloated over 

 that same picture in the catalogues for 

 years, until I bought a bulb and grew it. It 

 doesn't amount to anything." 



We didn't follow her advice, and we are 

 glad of it. Satisfaction in growing the 

 summer hyacinth (Galtonia candkans) can 

 only result when a number of the bulbs are 

 planted in good, big masses. When standing 

 alone the plant may fail to rise or may be 

 blown down by wind and its flowers meet an 

 ignoble fate. Even when well developed the 

 plant seems to lack individuality, and this is 

 probably the chief reason why some people 

 have been disappointed in it. When, .how- 

 ever, a score or more bulbs are planted in a 

 group, the insignificant leaves form a grass- 

 like bank of green from which the tall spires 

 of fragrant, pendulous white bells rise with 

 a dignity and grace not seen in the individual 

 plant. Instead of yielding a few lonely 

 flowers for a week or two the clump will be 

 attractive for several weeks Figure 188 

 gives a good idea of the beauty of a bed of 

 these plants. 



Even though the bulbs are fairly hardy, in 

 rather cold climates it is wisest to cover them 

 during the winter with a thick mulch to 

 prevent deep penetration of the frcst and to 



188. A wonderful group of the summer hyacinth, a plan! which maKes no impression when grown 

 singly. A group liHe this might be worKed up in three years from a ten-cent package of seed. It grows 

 three or four feet high and has fragrant, white, pendulous flowers. Plant the bulbs this spring 



keep the frozen ground from thawing during 

 mild weather. Severe cold injures the bulbs 

 less than alternate thawing and freezing. 

 If unmolested, the bed will improve for 

 several years. Where the winters are very 

 severe, it is best to dig up the bulbs after the 

 tops have died down in the autumn. They 

 should be cleaned and stored like gladiolus 

 bulbs, in a cool, dry place until the spring. 

 When the ground has become fairly warm, 

 plant the bulbs about a foot apart in rather 

 moist, friable soil, where they will have 

 plenty of sun. 



The bulbs grow readily from seed. In 

 three years, and often in two, the seedlings 

 will begin to flower. A group like that in 

 Figure 188 might be produced in three 

 years from a ten-cent package of seed. The 

 bulbs cost about five cents apiece, or three 

 dollars a hundred. They should be planted 

 in the spring. 



The summer hyacinth is about the only 

 plant from South Africa that is hardy, and 

 even in this case it is best to cover the bulbs 

 in winter with a foot of litter, if the climate 

 is severe. It grows three or four feet high, 

 and its white, fragrant, drooping, bell- 

 shaped flowers are borne to the number of 

 twenty in racemes sometimes a foot long. 

 Nurserymen usually call this plant Hya- 

 cinthus candkans, but it is entitled to a 

 different genus, chiefly because of the more 

 numerous and flattened seeds. 



New York. M. G. Kains. 



Dried Bush Limas for Winter Use 



WE do not consider our garden complete 

 without the Henderson bush lima 

 bean, a quantity of which we always dry for 

 winter use. They are small and tender and 

 in every way superior to the dried limas that 

 one buys. A supply can be raised in any 

 garden, for the plants occupy very little space. 

 We always buy the smallest sized package 

 of seed, which plants a row sixty feet or more 

 long. The plants are quite compact — for 

 beans — and so do not cover much ground. 

 From this little row of beans we reap quite a 

 harvest. We use them green until the pole 

 limas are ready and then leave the rest to 

 dry. They are ready for summer use about 

 the first of August. Last year they gained 

 nearly a month on the regular last-of-May 

 planting of pole limas, which could not be 

 picked till the end of August. We had more 

 than a dozen quarts of green limas and 

 enough of the dried to last till midwinter. A 

 few of these go a long way. One cupful of 

 the dried beans, soaked over night, will make 

 a good dishful for a family of five or six. The 

 beans are simply left alone on the vines. 

 When they are thoroughly dry, but before 

 the pods pop open and shed the beans on the 

 ground, we pull up the whole vines and throw 

 them into a large, clean piece of bagging. 

 Fold this securely over the top and trample 

 until the beans have shelled themselves. 



Dry weather is important for the picking, 

 because the pods are very tough if at all damp, 

 and they would be liable to mold. Finally, 

 the beans are picked over to sort out any 

 unfit to eat and spread on a tray in the garret. 



A. R. M. 



