266 



Write to the Readers' Service jor 

 suggestions about garden furniture 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



M a y , 19 10 



THE BEST INVESTMENT 



ANY COW OWNER 



EVER MADE 



That's what MORE THAN A MILLION COW OWNERS the world over have 

 found the DE LAVAL CREAM SEPARATOR to be after thirty years of separator use. 



A DE LAVAL FARM SEPARATOR costs from $40 to $175— according to 

 capacity. It saves butter fat and produces a cream of superior quality over any setting 

 system or any other separator every time it is used — twice a day every day in the year. 



It involves far less labor than any setting system, and runs easier, has greater 

 capacity and lasts from two to ten times longer than any other separator. 



That's how a DE LAVAL separator saves its cost at least the first year, and fre- 

 quently in a few months, and then goes on doing so right along for an average of twenty 

 years. 



So far as other separators are concerned they leave off where the IMPROVED DE 

 LAVAL machines begin, and the DE LAVAL makers, with thirty years of experience 

 in separator construction and development, have forgotten more about separators than 

 all the others know. In fact it's what the DE LAVAL has forgotten and discarded that 

 the others use. 



That's what makes the DE LAVAL CREAM SEPARATOR the best investment 

 any cow owner ever made, and an investment no cow owner can have sound reason for 

 delaying to make. 



And in buying a DE LAVAL machine you don't have to part with one cent until 

 you have satisfied yourself that every word of all this is simple truth. 



Any desired separator information can be had of the nearest DE LAVAL agent or 

 of the Company directly. 



THE DE LAVAL SEPARATOR CO. 



165-167 Broadway 



NEW YORK 



173-177 William Street 



MONTREAL 



42 E. Madison Street 



CHICAGO 



14-16 Princess Street 



WINNIPEG 



Drumm & Sacramento Sts. 

 SAN FRANCISCO 

 1016 Western Avenue 

 SEATTLE 



A Color Scheme from the Coast 



IN AN article in the February Garden Maga 

 zine the editor asked for a suggestion 

 blue and white border. I offer the following: 



Last spring, we decided to make a long borde: 

 of old-fashioned flowers to be started with material 

 on hand, and added to as we grew to know the 

 different flowers, their habits, seasons of bloom, 

 etc. Here on the Pacific Coast flowers sometimes 

 bloom out of all allotted time, as per catalogue! 



In a part of the border we had planted a fifteen- 

 foot row of white phlox. Directly in front of this 

 were about two dozen three-year-old roots of blue 

 delphinium. A little to' the east and running 

 irregularly in front of a part of them was a two- 

 foot-wide band of white garden pinks. A little 

 further on was a long uneven row of purple and 

 white foxgloves. We meant to have just the white 

 foxgloves, but had not the heart to pull up the 

 purple ones, after they had started bloom. 



The pinks bloomed first and were a solid mass 

 of deliriously fragrant white, when the larkspurs 

 opened their buds. For four weeks that part of 

 the border was a very great delight. 



Though we had read of cutting back larkspurs 

 after the first bloom, we never before had the 

 courage to do it; but this year the phlox seemed in 

 such fine condition, and we wanted so much to 

 see the two flowers bloom together, that we risked 

 it. They threw up a second crop of flowers, which, 

 though not quite as tall as the first, bore as many 

 blooms. Blue, by itself, is rather a shy, retreating 

 color in the garden, but with white it is glorious. 

 Indeed, were I to have ever so tiny a garden, blue 

 and white at least there must be. 



English laurel is a very fine shrub for a hedge 

 here, very hardy and fast growing. Blue forget- 

 me-nots in company with white tulips give my 

 early spring effect. White perennial gypsophila 

 is inexpressively lovely, blooms faithfully and makes 

 a most delightful addition to a bouquet. Then 

 there are the tall Shasta daisies and later the lovely 

 white cactus dahlias. The stately madonna lilies 

 and hollyhocks are worthy additions, as are also 

 peonies and iris. In the latter, there are beautiful 

 blues. 



Seattle, Wash. Anna M. B. Nash. 



: 



How to Build a Rose House 



ROSE houses for winter flowering are better run- 

 ning east and west than north and south. The 

 reason for this is that in midwinter an east and 

 west house gets a great deal more sunlight than 

 a north and south house. At that time of the year 

 the sun rises in the extreme southeast and sets in 

 the extreme southwest, and at meridian is very 

 low, so that the sash-bars of a house running north 

 and south obstruct half the sun's rays. This is 

 now a well accepted fact. In building rose or other 

 flowering houses, it is preferable to build them 

 either three-quarters or three-fifths span, about 

 three-fifths to the south and two-fifths to the north. 

 A house with a three-fifths span is considered a 

 much better house than an even-span house, 

 because in the latter the ridge obstructs the sun's 

 rays on the back of the house during late fall and 

 early winter. It is usual now to make the back 

 of the house the same height as- the front; it used 

 to be a practice to make the back considerably 

 higher, but in the most modern houses there is no 

 difference, the eave plates being about seven feet 

 six inches from the ground. 



