The Garden Magazine 



Vol. XI— No. 5 



Published Monthly 



JUNE, 1910 



j One Dollar Fifty Cents a Year 

 ' Fifteen Cents a Copy 



■ 





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REMW 



[For the purpose of reckoning dates, New York is 

 generally taken as a standard. Allow six days' difference 

 for every hundred miles of latitude.] 



The Busy Month of June 



"DEFORE the first of June it is usually 

 -*-' safe to put out all the tender plants 

 for summer bedding, but do not be in a 

 hurry to get them out because May is draw- 

 ing to a close. They suffer from cold, and 

 even if they are not killed their growth is 

 checked. And remember this: A checked 

 plant never fully recovers that same year. 



One thing you must do before June is to 

 plant hardy chrysanthemums for fall flower. 

 These will give you bloom and garden color 

 when everything else has succumbed to 

 frost. Plant a mixed border and water 

 freely all summer. 



With the first returns from the vegetable 

 garden, which you will be enjoying this 

 month, do not allow your enthusiasm to 

 obscure the necessity for succession sowings. 

 Small sowings and frequent will give a 

 continuous supply of really succulent fresh 

 vegetables throughout the year. That is 

 far better than sowing the garden once for 

 all and having the crop in perfection of 

 quality once only. Study the planting table 

 in the April Garden Magazine and figure 

 out the quantities you want. 



The best aid to exact figuring that has ever 

 been published is Mr. Kayan's table in The 

 Garden Magazine for March, 1908. 



Another important thing is to look after 

 the strawberry beds and arrange for new 

 ones. It is better to plough up a bed that 

 has already borne two crops. Use the 

 ground this season for late cabbage, celery. 

 A bed that has just borne its first crop must 

 be encouraged to make new plants by keep- 

 ing the rows to the prescribed width. Do 

 not allow the runners to get ahead of them. 



Rigorously weed out all beds and rows 

 throughout the season. The bed newly set 

 this spring which has not been allowed to 

 fruit needs just as much attention. If neces- 



sary, you can set your bed next month from 

 runners made now. Plants that are making 

 runners and matting need attention to see 

 that the new runner plants are properly 

 spaced. Some hints on successful straw- 

 berry culture will be found on page 297. 



Look out for the white grub at the roots 

 of the strawberries. When a plant shows 

 signs of attack, pour a tablespoonful of 

 carbon bisulphide into the ground. Do not 

 handle this liquid, however, near an open 

 flame. It is explosive. 



If you want the best quality tomatoes, 

 earliest and latest, train your plants to single 

 stems tied to stakes, cutting off all laterals. 

 Your crop per plant will be smaller, perhaps, 

 but more plants can be accommodated to a 

 given area and their fruit is perfect. 



Let the chickens run into the gardens 

 wherever practicable to help control insect 

 pests. 



Health for the Roses 



Roses are the most important flower of 

 the month, and if you would have good 

 roses always, attend now to keeping the 

 plants healthy. The most successful rose 

 amateur near New York follows this spray- 

 ing calendar: 



May 17. Potassium sulphide, one ounce 

 to two gallons of water. 



May 21. Whale oil soap, one pound to 

 eight gallons of water. 



May 24. Potassium sulphide. 



June 1. Potassium sulphide. 



June 7. Lead arsenate, one pound to ten 

 gallons of water. 



June 14. Arsenate of lead. 



June 21. Whale oil soap. 



June 28. Arsenate of lead. 



Watch for the rose bug. You cannot 

 absolutely control it, especially on sandy 

 soils. But lessen next year's number by 

 poisoning as many as possible this year; 

 therefore, spray with lead arsenate. The 

 only immediate palliative is to hand-pick 

 and throw the bugs into kerosene. 



Keeping the foliage healthy now will 

 ensure a good crop of blooms on the Hybrid 

 Teas in September. 



Spraying Made Easy 



Do not forget to spray, especially in the 

 fruit garden and the vegetable garden. The 

 cost is comparatively slight and the gain, 

 especially in seasons when insect pests are 

 at all troublesome, is out of all proportion 

 to the cost. Perhaps one very good reason 

 why the home garden is not persistently 

 sprayed is the idea that spraying material 

 is bothersome to handle. We have tried to 

 simplify this for our readers and in this num- 

 ber will be found an article in which the 



most approved spraying formulas are re- 

 duced to terms of kitchen utensils. The best 

 spraying calendar which will tell you how to 

 recognize the cause of the trouble is Dr. Felt's 

 in The Garden Magazine for April, 1909. 



Now is the time to prune shrubs. Buy 

 a pair of good pruning shears, look over the 

 shrubbery and remember the rule: Prune 

 after flowering. Cut out the old wood so 

 as to induce new growth which will bear 

 flowers for next year. 



Plant Clematis paniculata now for flowers 

 in August. 



Sow annuals for late flowering. 



Mow the lawn once a week. 



Mulch all small fruits. 



Disbud grape vines. 



If weeds are troublesome along the walks 

 and drives try some of the special liquid 

 weed-killers. They save backache. 



For indoor flower later on buy Bermuda 

 lilies (L. Harrisii) freesias, amaryllis and 

 other bulbs. Azaleas that have done flower- 

 ing indoors should be plunged outdoors in 

 a shaded place and watered all summer. 



Finish budding roses in the greenhouse 

 benches. Pot all poinsettias for winter 

 flower. 



Plant violets in the greenhouse, but keep 

 everything as cool as possible. 



Dig up and dry all hardy bulbs that have 

 done flowering. Spread them out thinly 

 in a dry, shaded place and finally clean up 

 and pack away for replanting in the fall. 



The characteristic gardening effects of 

 this month are roses, lilacs, azaleas, peonies, 

 German irises, rhododendrons and straw- 

 berries. 



Arrange to visit collections in parks and 

 nurseries with a view to selecting the best 

 specimens for later planting. 



Trim hedges for the first time in the early 

 part of the month, cutting back one-half of 

 the new growth. 



If you would enjoy cut flowers longest, 

 do not wait until they are fully expanded 

 in the garden but cut them just before 

 maturity and twenty-four hours before you 

 really need to use them. Plunge the entire 

 stem into water immediately after cutting 

 and put the container and all in a cool room 

 or cellar. The flowers will absorb an 

 enormous amount of water. Flowers for 

 shipping should under no circumstances be 

 packed before they are thus treated. 



We should like to hear of readers' indi- 

 vidual experiences and short notes on obser- 

 vation of anything that is not mere routine 

 work. Lots of things will be happening in 

 rapid succession from now on. Make 

 note of them and let us hear of them. Our 

 Readers' Experience Club is a medium of 

 exchange for amateurs' own ideas. 



