The Garden 



azine 



Vol. XI— No. 6 



Published Monthly 



JULY, 1910 



1 One Dollar Fifty Cents a Year 

 ' Fifteen Cents a Copy 



[For the purpose of reckoning dates, New York is 

 generally taken as a standard. Allow six days' difference 

 for every hundred miles of latitude.] 



It Is Not Too Late 



ALTHOUGH it may be somewhat of 

 a shock to some people, there is still 

 time to make a garden. Just because you 

 did not do anything to the ground before 

 the first week in July is no good excuse for 

 letting it remain idle any longer. Of course, 

 this is contrary to all popular notions, but 

 if The Garden Magazine has insisted on 

 anything to the amateur gardeners, it has 

 been the lesson of succession of crops and 

 keeping up an interest in garden work all 

 through the year. It is very poor garden- 

 ing indeed to put all your plants and seeds 

 into the ground during the first few days 

 of spring, and then rest back contentedly 

 because the garden "is made." 



Did you ever stop to realize what you can 

 do in planting vegetables in July? Prob- 

 ably not. And even if you made a beginning 

 in April, it is high time to consider what is 

 going to happen in winter. You can sow now 

 for winter supplies vegetables of all kinds 

 except the long-seasoned, tropical ones. 



Plant all salads, including onions. These 

 onions will not be very large, but they will 

 be good just the same. 



If you have facilities for watering, it is 

 not too late for celery. It must be kept 

 growing constantly. Here is a list of all 

 the vegetables that you can sow: 



Bush beans 





Lettuce 



Swiss chard 



Bush limas 





Onion 



Corn salad 



Brussels sprouts 



Carrot 



Celery 



Corn 



Early potatoes 

 Rutabaga 

 Turnip 

 Pole beans 



Water cress 

 Endive 

 Kohlrabi 

 Mustard 



Cress 





Beets 



Peas 



Cucumber 

 Kale 



Cabbage 

 Cauliflower 

 Herbs of all sorts 



Radish 

 Spinach 



thing at this time of year, but if circum- 

 stances make it necessary it can be done by 

 merely taking very great pains. Generally 

 the smaller the plant the more easy it is to 

 move at this time, because it can be moved 

 with such a relatively large quantity of earth 

 that its roots are never disturbed. Be sure 

 to water thoroughly — very thoroughly — 

 some few hours before moving anything that 

 has to be taken up now, and water again 

 when resetting. 



In the Flower Garden 



KEEP the faded flowers picked off as 

 soon as the petals fall. This will 

 prevent seed formation, which means more 

 vigor to the plant and in the case of annuals 

 induces a longer season of bloom. Keeping 

 the garden cleaned up makes it much neater. 



There is plenty of time to sow seeds for 

 late flowers. The earlier sowings will 

 usually complete their growth before the 

 season ends. By sowing now for succession 

 the common dreariness of the season's end 

 could be avoided. 



Sow pansy, mignonette, and such like. 

 There is no more showy and more easily 

 grown flower than the pansy, and the im- 

 proved strains which are offered by the best 

 seedsmen are well worth the extra cost. 

 The flowers are larger, better formed, and 

 come in a multitude of bright, rich colors. 



Plant dahlia bulbs, putting in all that you 

 may have left during the first week of July. 

 Early planted bulbs which have made 

 growth may need staking. Plant gladiolus 

 bulbs for September flowers. Also sow 

 freely all kinds of annuals where they are to 

 bloom, selecting a cool and moist place. 



Seeds of hardy perennials may be sown 

 any time during July if they can be gathered. 



If you want to have perennials flowering next 

 year you must sow this year's "new crop" 

 seed during July or August — the earlier the 

 better. Do this preferably in coldframes. 

 See the article "Perennials that Bloom the 

 First Year from Seed," in March, 1907, 

 Garden Magazine. 



Plants that have been plunged outdoors 

 in pots can be repotted and established for 

 winter flowers. 



Now is the time to look out for geraniums 

 that are to give flowers indoors during 

 winter. Select young plants and see to it 

 that they do not produce any flowers this 

 summer. Pinch out all buds as soon as they 

 are seen. 



Other Routine Work 



SEE that you have plenty of pots ready 

 for use. 



Layer strawberry runners into 2-inch pots 

 for setting in the beds in late summer or fall. 

 Watch all the fruit trees and rigorously thin 

 out the set. A normal set should be reduced 

 from one-half to two-thirds. 



Look over the lawn, hoe out any mossy 

 spots. Take note of the places and make a 

 memorandum to underdrain them this fall. 



The most important routine operation 

 in the garden during summer time is keeping 

 the plants supplied with moisture. Culti- 

 vation of the surface soil will accomplish a 

 great deal, but succulent crops and fruits 

 should have an abundance of water. Loss 

 of water by surface evaporation can be pre- 

 vented by cultivation and also, in the smaller, 

 more succulent plants, by shading from the 

 direct sun. 



Perhaps your lettuce "bolted" last year. 

 Try shading it a bit with cheesecloth, keep- 

 ing it cool and constantly growing. 



The most important of these crops will be 

 yielding from the end of August onward. 

 We do not advise transplanting any- 



A hot-weather hint: shade lettuce and other "cool" plants ■with cheesecloth 



