56 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



Septembeh, 1913 



not nearly so good for fall planting as the 

 smaller ones would be. 



The young stock propagated in April will 

 be ready to plant out in May and will re- 

 quire a space of fifteen inches between 

 plants in rows eighteen inches apart. From 

 that time on, weeds must be kept under 

 control by cultivating the soil which will 

 also help to conserve moisture. 



During the summer cut off all runners as 

 they appear. In other words, try what the 

 strawberry growers call "hill culture." 

 Aim to build up a good crown and not a 

 straggling plant. The flowers that are 

 to be produced in the winter are made in 

 the crown during the summer. 



The Wolet grower is liable to suffer from 

 one insidious disease — leaf spot. Double 

 violets are especially liable. It appears in 

 the early fall and it is especially prone to 

 develop on plants that have been grown in 

 rich soil or over-watered during the sum- 

 mer. A sturdy, vigorous growth, observing 

 the rules for proper watering, and having 

 adequate drainage so that the soil will 

 not become sour are the practical pre- 

 cautions. The air space around the bed 

 in the frame is a help, too. 



In the early spring, in common with 

 other plants, green fly is liable to make an 

 attack. Some of the oil or soap or tobacco 

 preparations are effective remedies. I have 

 used soap, one half pound to eighteen 

 gallons of water, which would also be 

 effective against red spider, although 

 that little pest does not usually bother 

 violets in frames. 



VARIETIES TO GROW 



Marie Louise and Lady Hume Campbell 

 are both fine doubles, the former being 

 darker in color, and the variety most gener- 

 ally grown; the latter, however is a good 

 A-iolet and some growers claim that it has 

 the advantage of a longer flower stem. 

 I have tried both under the same con- 

 ditions and prefer Marie Louise. 



Among the single varieties Princess of 

 Wales is the leader, having a long stem, 

 fine color, and very free flowering, a com- 

 bination that is all that can be desired. 



Should violets be required as late as 

 possible, try a few sashes of Princess of 

 Wales and allow them to remain frozen all 

 winter. These need not be planted before 

 late October, so the frames can be used 

 for other things till that time. Let them 

 grow along until December so as to be well 

 rooted, and then let them freeze. Keep a 

 mat and shutter on the glass to exclude the 

 sun and allow the frost to come out gradu- 

 ally in early spring. You will be surprised 

 at the wealth of flowers obtained in this 

 manner, after the plants grown under 

 ordinary conditions are over. I have left 

 plants of Princess of Wales in the field all 

 winter without any covering, and they have 

 come through all right and flowered in late 

 April. This demonstrates the hardiness of 

 this variety. 



Growing Roses from Slips 



IN THIS locality growing roses from slips 

 is generally practised and is, as a rule, 

 successful. The usual way is to stick the 

 cutting in the ground in common garden 

 soil and cover it with a glass fruit jar in- 

 verted and pressed into the earth sufficiently 

 to exclude the air. 



The best time to start the slips or cuttings 

 is probably in August, after the first bloom 

 is over, or even in September. I have some 

 which were put out in the early fall. I 

 sometimes strip the twig from the branch 

 to which it is attached and stick that end 

 in; or a branch may be cut diagonally just 

 below an eye. Put this under ground to 

 the depth of an inch or two and leave one, 

 two, or more eyes above. I cut off all the 

 leaves except one at the top. The jar 

 should be left undisturbed through the 

 winter. A few of my cuttings came 

 safely through the winter of 1911-12 whicK 

 proved fatal to many shrubs and vines, the 

 mercury falling once or twice to 25 below 

 zero. These roses, two red ones and a 

 pink daily, grew to the height of 23 and 

 32 inches respectively, bloomed throughout 

 the summer and until it became too cold 

 for the buds to develop. On the very last 

 day of December, they still retained their 

 buds and foliage. 



Years ago I used another method with 

 good results. The cuttings were put in a 

 bottle of water which was kept in a sunny 

 place until little white points showed around 

 the edge, indicating that the roots were 

 ready to appear. They were then planted 

 in a pot. 



When growing roses from slips in the way 

 first mentioned, if the season is dry keep the 

 soil moist, and a light mulch will prevent 

 its baking. If not placed where they are to 

 grow, transplant in the spring. 



Maryland. S. E. G. 



Personalities of Some Roses 



THE oldest rose on our premises is a 

 General Jacqueminot, a gift to my 

 mother nearly thirty years ago. It was 

 moved about from place to place in a 6- 

 quart tin pail, for about five years. At one 

 time in those quarters it had nineteen 

 blossoms on it. For twenty-five years it 

 has stood on the north side of our house, has 

 had a moderate amount of sun, some old 



manure annually and plenty of water, not a 

 great deal of attention otherwise, and has 

 produced annually a good crop of fine 

 flowers 



The hard winter killed all the roses we 

 had, some sixty-five in about fifty varieties 

 (except the Crimson Ramblers, Baltimore 

 Belle, Prairie Queen, Damask, Centifolia 

 and Mrs. Chas. Wood) to within, at most, 

 six inches of the ground. 



So all the roses in the garden were cut back 

 and glass fruit jars inverted over the stubs 

 or as much of them as the jar would cover. 

 Just two died, Baroness Rothschild and 

 Etoile de France. 



Sundving are the following, thirty in all, 

 and those marked * bloomed also, from the 

 new wood: 



*PinkMoss; *Gen. Jacqueminot; Roger 

 Lamberlin; Gloire Lyonnaise; *Coquette 

 des Alpes; *Clio; *Magna Charta; Mar- 

 garet Dickson; *AlfredColomb; *American 

 Beauty; *Countess of Rosebery; *Paul 

 Neyron; *Ulrich Brunner; *Dinsmore; 

 *Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford; Coquette 

 des Blanches; Kaiserin Augusta Victoria; 

 *Hermosa; *Clothilde Soupert; *Duchesse 

 de Brabant; *Burbank; *Etoile de Lyon; 

 *Baby Rambler; *Maman Cochet; *Helen 

 Gould; *Meteor; *Richmond; *Killarney; 

 Frau Karl Druschki; Ball of Snow. 



Gloire Lyonnaise is an almost perpetual 

 disappointment as it invariably kills to the 

 ground, with the result that there are no 

 roses. 



Our soil here is a heavy, black loam with 

 clay and manure added. The garden 

 lies at the foot of a southern slope, and is 

 shielded on west, east and north by either 

 trees or buildings. 



Every fall the Hybrid Perpetuals, a good 

 many of which I have grown from cuttings, 

 are given a mulch of old manure, but the 

 Teas and HybridTeas have a slight covering 

 of straw. The very smallest Teas I cut back 

 and cover with a glass fruit jar. In the 

 spring, if any have killed back badly, they 

 are cut back as far as necessary and "can- 

 ned" as above, and some of even the Teas 

 and Hybrid Teas are now at least ten years, 

 old. The bed is thoroughly hoed when the 

 winter mulch has been removed, and the 

 bushes sprayed as needed with Bordeaux, 

 arsenate of lead or clear water and the 

 ground occasionally loosened with a hoe. 



Indiana. Jane Green. 



