64 



THE GARDEN MA G A Z I N E 



September, 1913 



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SHE Proof That 

 August - September 

 Evergreen Planting 

 is a Success 



THE fact that for the last five years we have been successfully 

 planting Evergreens in August and September, and that the sales 

 figure S65.000 in that time, is proof beyond dispute that August- 

 September evergreen planting is a success. 



The chart shows our average sales of evergreens for 1911 and 1912. 



Evergreens planted in August or September are just as successful as 

 April and May. They have ample time when August -September 

 planted to become thoroughly at home in their new location and develop 

 an abundant sturdy root system. When next Spring comes, the tops 

 then start early and continue to grow rapidly. 



We have Pines and Cedars 25 ft. high, as in the picture. They are 

 growing in the nursery and can stand a journey of a thousand miles. 

 Do you need a tree screen 8 ft. high? We have many acres of such 

 trees transplanted or root pruned during the past two years and sure 

 to grow rapidly. 



We also have thousands of little Spruces and Pines for forests or 

 private nurseries. We can also transplant for you large evergreens 

 that may be in your vicinity. 



Come and see Hicks trees and convince yourself. If you can't come, 

 send for the following literature. 



"Hicks Evergreens for August- September Planting." Which treats 

 of trees up to 12 ft. 



"Evergreens that save 15 years," treating of large trees. 



"Water Your Trees. Why, When and How," which gives valuable 

 hints on the watering of trees and shrubbery. 



Isaac Hicks and Son 



Westbury, L. I. 



Grow Your Own Vegetables 



Cut down your living expenses. You'll be astonished how healthful it Is 

 to cultivate a garden and how easy if you use 



PlanetJrtt 



_ Adapted to more uses than aay other implement. 

 ^ Opens furrows, plants, covers, and marks next row 



in one operation. 

 Mg5 |Tp|7|7 An instructive 64-page illustrated 

 j4I * *%*j*-j catalogue. Send postal for it today. 



8. L. Allen A Co., Box 120215 Phlla. 



Make the Farm Pay 



Complete Home Study Courses in Agriculture, 

 Horticulture, Floriculture, Landscape Gardening, For- 

 estry, Poultry Culture, and Veterinary Science under 

 Prof. Brooks of the Mass. Agricultural College, Prof. 

 Craig of Cornell University and other eminent teachers. 

 Over one hundred Home Study Courses under able 

 professors in leading colleges. 



250 page catalog free. Write to-day 



THE HOME CORRESPONDENCE SCHOOL 



Dept. 8, Springfield, Mass. 



Pecan and English Walnut Trees 

 for Zero Climates 



A Strong Statement, but True. You cannot plant Southern 

 Grown Trees and accomplish anything but failure, but with our Northern 

 Grown Trees, strong and rugged, grown under Northern conditions, from 

 Northern seed and budded from Northern fruiting trees, you will succeed. 



You cannot secure such trees from any other source this year, and we 

 doubt if you can for several years to come. We are pioneers in the propaga- 

 tion of hardy nut trees for successful Nut Culture in the Northern States. 

 Look us up — verify our statements, and then entrust us with your order. 

 Fifty years in business is our guarantee that we know our business. 



Luscious Raspberries 



Hardy Northern 

 Pecans 



Crop after crop, all summer long — two and three good "pickings" every week of large, 

 sugary, crimson-bright berries. This you can have by setting out these wonderful St. Regis 

 Everbearing Raspberries this Fall. For commercial growing St. Regis has been called 

 the "mortgage lifter." Set out St. Regis this Fall — they yield bountifully from June to 

 October.year after year— succeed in any soil— endure severest heat, drought and cold. 



Northem English Walnut Valuable Catalogue and 



Booklet — Free 



Full information about successful Northern 

 Varieties of Southern Nut Trees for commercial 

 and decorative purposes; also our 64-page General 

 Catalogue of trees, shrubs, flowers, etc. — mailed 

 free on request. 



GLEN BROS., Inc. 



^ m\ 



Gleowood Nursery, Established 1866 



2100 Main St., ROCHESTER, N. Y. 



St. Regis i 



Everbearing t 



Raspberry I 



Bulbs in a Southern Garden 



ALMOST all articles on how to grow bulbs are 

 written by Northerners for their part of the 

 world. Here in the South conditions are very 

 different. It is not with us so much a question of 

 hot and cold, as of dry and wet. In the South we 

 sow seeds of biennials and many annuals in the fall. 

 Poppies and sweet peas are sown in November and 

 December, so that the roots may penetrate as deeply 

 as possible into the soil and be better able to resist 

 the hot winds of early spring. Sweet peas bloom in 

 April and poppies in May. Pansies are expected 

 to begin blooming before Christmas, and violets 

 and sweet alyssum bloom aU winter; although 

 hurt by each cold wave, they recover within a few 

 days and bravely push out their buds anew. 



All books tell us to take up our bulbs after they 

 have bloomed and the foliage turns yellow; then 

 carefully ripened and dried off, they are packed 

 away until planting time in the fall. In the South, 

 bulbs so treated develop dry rot and fall finds noth- 

 ing in your package worth planting. So we choose 

 for our bulbs a spot where they can remain undis- 

 turbed from year to year. They do well under 

 deciduous trees and shrubbery. All my flower beds 

 have a bulb border about three feet wide which 

 later on is filled with larkspur, phlox, poppies, 

 forget-me-nots, etc. When the bulbs are in bloom, 

 these little plants give a green ground cover. In 

 the South our lawns are planted with Bermuda 

 grass, whose strong, deep-growing roots enable it 

 to withstand the summer sun, but the top is killed 

 by the cold. The bulbs bloom before the grass is 

 green again, so scattered bulb planting on the lawn 

 is rarely seen before the crocus comes in March, 

 looking like blue and white and gold bubbles amid 

 the grass. Later comes the poet's narcissus, long 

 after the early daffodils and Roman hyacinths have 

 faded. 



The rainfall during the last of August and early 

 September determines the time of blooming for 

 early bulbs. They have been fast asleep in their 

 sunbaked beds since the spring. It needs a good 

 deal of rain to soak the ground for six or eight inches, 

 but when they get it the bulbs begin to throw out 

 little rootlets and slowly start toward the light. 

 The paper white narcissus comes first. I have 

 picked hundreds of these from my garden at 

 Thanksgiving, and one year more than 1,000 before 

 Christmas. If the late summer is dry (as often 

 happens), the bulbs wake up late and a cold wave 

 will blast every flower; if it is too cold for them to 

 grow, they seem to stand still until February's 

 warm rains bring a profusion of flowers. Knowing 

 that a late dry summer means no early flowers, I 

 buy several hundred paper whites and plant 

 them in boxes where they can be protected. These 

 will bloom for Thanksgiving and Christmas, and 

 as fast as the blooms are cut the bulbs are trans- 

 planted to the garden, six inches deep at least. 

 In two or three years they will give fine blooms 

 again. 



Next to appear are the white Roman hyacinths, 

 increasing from year to year, and throwing up 

 several stalks of bloom from each bulb, and later 

 on the pink and blue and yellow Romans, which 

 are beautifully placed in violet-bordered beds, or 

 with pansies. The pink are especially pretty with a 

 ground cover of white alyssum. 



Being late bloomers, the Dutch hyacinths and 

 tulips are not satisfactory garden bulbs, except in 

 favored localities, weather conditions favorable 

 to their perfect development occurring about once 

 in ten years, as the hot, dry winds of March blight 

 the buds before they can open. But plant these 

 beautiful bulbs, as many as you can afford, in pots 

 and boxes for decorating the house and veranda, 

 where you can help or retard their time of blooming. 

 Afterward transplant to the garden shrubbery, and 

 in the succeeding years you may get an occasional 

 spike from the hyacinths, but never a bloom from 

 the tulips. 



By far the most satisfactory bulbs for garden 

 culture are the daffodil, jonquil, etc. Every year I 

 buy a few new varieties which I plant in boxes, so 

 close that the bulbs almost touch each other. Then, 

 when they bloom, I transplant to the spot in my 

 garden where they seem to be most effective. But 

 all bulbs ripened North bloom later the first year 

 than afterward. Remember, if you wish ' early 





Greenhouse healing problems solved by the Readers' Service 



