The Garden Magazine 



Volume XVIII 



OCTOBER, 1913 



Number 3 



THE FIRST thing to think of in connection with October 

 is planting. Apple picking, cider, "nut brown ale," fox 

 hunting, and autumn leaves make an attractive outdoor 

 background, but the great big constructive thought is 

 about getting things into the ground. 



Like the Mississippi River pilot who made good not because he 

 knew how the channels ran, but because he "knew where the 

 snags were " and could avoid them, we can escape most of our 

 difficulties by recalling at once what can not be planted now. 



Among the trees there are the thin barked species such as birch 

 and beech; and the fleshly rooted kinds, including magnolia, 

 tulip tree, poplar, etc. 



Of the fruits, strawberries are doubtful especially in heavy 

 soils, and the stone fruits — peach, plum, cherry and apricot 



— must be avoided. 



The only shrubs that are liable to injury are evergreens. Roses, 

 too, except for the rugosa, the very hardiest climbers and H. 

 P.'s had best be saved till spring, but for those mentioned fall 

 planting is ideal on well-drained soils. 



Of the herbaceous perennials and Dutch bulbs there is only 

 one exception — the anemone must not be set out for it will rot. 

 Of course the " summer bulbs " (gladiolus and the like) must not 

 be planted now. 



There are a few precautions worth noting preparatory to get- 

 ting busy with the raft of material at our disposal. 



Fall Planting Dangers 



"\^7ET, unchained soil will upset all our calculations and prob- 

 * * ably cause failure. Therefore if your soil is not right 

 install a thorough, permanent drainage system, instead of 

 wasting time and material in planting. 



Cold, dry winds are almost equally destructive. If they are 

 common in your vicinity either consider yourself wholly an excep- 

 tion and avoid planting, or devise a shelter or windbreak. 



Heavy clay soils under winter influence are likely to "heave" 



— that is lift the new set plants out of the ground, tearing and 

 laying bare the roots. Here again improve conditions by lighten- 

 ing the soil with humus and sand, before planting even if it holds 

 you back a season. 



Unless you have thoroughly prepared the ground in advance, 

 its condition may be less congenial and more prejudicial to good 

 growth than if you left it until spring plowing; spading or 

 harrowing meanwhile, whenever possible. 



What Can Be Planted and How 



O NOT neglect to learn these general fall planting rules 



now. 



D 



(i) For trees and shrubs dig the hole large enough to take 

 the roots without crowding, and deep enough to set the plant 

 about one inch deeper than it was before. 



(2) Balance any possible root injury by cutting back the top, 

 except in the case of spring blooming sorts, on which the flower 

 buds are already formed, e. g., fors\thia, lilac, fringe bush, etc. 



(3) Mulch newly planted specimens to prevent excessive 

 evaporation by winter winds. 



(4) Be sure that the soil is sifted and firmed closely around 

 the root system. 



(5) Don't transplant any thing in which the season's growth 

 has not definitely ceased. 



(6) Cut back berry and rose canes that they may not be 

 whipped about by the wind, but leave sufficient wood to prune 

 again in the spring, in case an early or late frost should kill back 

 part of the old growth. 



(7) In buying nursery stock, select if possible that grown near 

 by or north of you rather than much farther south except when 

 the Southern nursery is on a high elevation, as most are, however. 



(8) Never let roots dry out entirely, but on the other hand do 

 not water continually so as to stimulate a new growing period. 



(9) Don't try to get results with poor stock. Buy the best, 

 even if you only get one half or one quarter as much. 



Planting Bulbs 



BULBS may be planted in four ways each of which gives 

 results out of all proportion to the work involved: 



(A) Naturalized in the grass — the most permanent and least 

 troublesome method. Throw the bulbs by handfuls, scattering 

 them as though by the wind, and plant each where it lies 

 making the hole with a dibble and surrounding the bulbs with 

 a handful of sand to prevent rotting. 



(B) Semi-naturally in the border, using similar methods, but 

 aiming for irregularity of grouping and season, by planting at 

 varying depths and spacings. 



(C) Informal designs and masses — the city park style. Here 

 uniformity is everything. Plan, level and mark out the bed 

 accurately. Affix a guide to the dibble to insure planting at a 

 certain depth, and choose bulbs of uniform size and apparent 

 vigor. 



(D) In pots, flats and bulb glasses. For six to ten weeks 

 develop simply a root growth (best temperature 40 degrees F.); 

 then start the foliage and stem growth (50 degrees F.); for 

 the most and best flowers keep no higher than 60 degrees F., 

 but for quick temporary effects raise to 70 degrees F. 



Daffodils, freesia, Roman hyacinths and tulips give really best 

 results only in soil. Others can be matured in water alone, 

 although the addition of a little prepared plant food will help. 

 To insure tall, vigorous spikes and leaves, cover the shoots with 

 paper cones for a week or two, leaving, however, a hole at the top 

 for the admission of some light. 



If you want detailed suggestions about just what to plant, 

 look in Garden Magazine, October 1906 (p. 118), 1907 (p. 128) 



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