November, 1913 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



139 



For potting, dig around about one 

 foot from the plant with the tool at 

 an angle of 45 degrees 



Using the fork as a lever gently 

 raise the plant with its ball of earth. 

 Have the pot close by 



OarefulLy reduce the size of the ball 

 to properly fit the pot. An 8-inch pot 

 generally suffices 



After tamping place pot in a pail 

 with enough water to soak up. Do not 

 fill above rim of pot 



simply save the topmost branch and in 

 the three months that the plant has still 

 to grow before setting normal buds, that 

 branch will have grown perfectly erect 

 and the point where it joins the main stalk 

 will simply be marked by a slight 

 thickening. 



The chrysanthemum has a period of 

 growth, a period of bloom and (normally) 

 a period when it is dormant, and these are 

 not interchangeable at the will of the 

 grower. During the period of growth, 

 should the temperature fall below about 50 

 degrees F., then look for buds, for this is 

 nature's signal to the chrysanthemum that 

 winter is approaching and it must prepare 

 to reproduce itself. The cold weather 

 checks growth, and buds follow; hence the 

 abortive May buds. 



TAKING THE BUD 



This is an old term, and means pruning 

 off all buds' except those you wish to save 

 for bloom. The plants will set buds at 

 various dates between August 1st and 

 September 1st, depending upon the variety 

 and the latitude and altitude where they 

 are grown. For the best date to disbud, 

 consult the catalogue of some specialist 

 where you will find carefully listed all such 

 important data. If possible let your date be 

 within five days either side of 

 that given by him. Strange 

 as it may seem, the date of 

 "taking the bud" bears an 

 important relation to the 

 color and frequently to the 

 shape of the blooms which 

 are allowed to mature. 



Now is the time to com- 

 mence feeding in earnest, and 

 under no circumstances neg- 

 lect this important feature. 

 To any one unfamiliar with 

 the handling of concentrated 

 fertilizers, I suggest pulver- 

 ized sheep manure as a safe 

 and lasting stimulant. Apply 

 it at the rate of about a pint 

 to a plant every two weeks 

 from the time the buds are 

 set until the color shows in the 



bud, but not thereafter. Work it into the 

 soil around the plant with a small rake or a 

 dibber. Watch for suckers from the roots 

 and cut them off as they appear, for they 

 will rob your buds of nourishment. 



LIFTING THE PLANTS 



Chrysanthemums may be shifted about 

 with impunity. When the buds are about 

 two-thirds open, carefully lift such plants 

 as you desire to have bloom in the house 

 or conservatory, and pot them in 8 to 12 

 inch pots or tubs depending upon the size 

 of the root systems they have formed. If 

 this operation is done with care, and the 

 plants given a good watering as soon as 

 potted the blooming should not be delayed 

 at all. I have lifted plants when they were 

 in full bloom and to all appearances they 

 were not disturbed at all. 



If the plants have been grown in a light 

 soil lifting need cause you no apprehen- 

 sion, for the chrysanthemum is a surface 

 rooter, and its roots will not extend very 

 far downward if they have plenty of room 

 laterally and can find sufficient food in the 

 top soil. 



A spading fork is best for this. Push 

 it full length into the soil, about a foot 

 away from the plant and at an angle of 

 about 45 degrees. Loosen the soil all 



Propagation of chrysan- 

 themums is auite easy from 

 the old roots in spring. Don't 

 forget to label properly 



around the plant in this manner, and then, 

 using the fork as a lever, raise the plant out 

 of the ground. Have the pot close by, and 

 in the bottom of it place pieces of crock 

 and two or three inches of loose soil. With 

 your fingers, or a small toothed implement, 

 scrape a sufficient amount of soil from the 

 roots to make the plant fit easily into the 

 pot; then place the ball of roots in the 

 pot, fill in with soil up to about an inch 

 of the rim, and firm down well with the 

 hands. Now place the potted plant in a 

 bucket or tub and fill the container with 

 water up to the rim of the pot, but not 

 above. As the water is absorbed, fill the 

 receptacle again to the mark, and repeat 

 this until the soil in the pot is saturated 

 and of the consistency of mud. Now 

 remove the potted plant from the bucket 

 or tub and set it in a cool, dark place for 

 twenty-four hours, when it can safely be 

 placed in the shaded portion of a living 

 room. In two more days it can be placed 

 in the direct sunlight. Chrysanthemums 

 potted in this manner should go right on 

 blooming and never show the least sign of 

 wilting, even if lifted while in full bloom. 



STORING THE OLD PLANTS 



After it has bloomed, cut off the plant 

 to about two inches from the ground, 

 dump it out of the pot (if pot- 

 ted) and place it in a cold- 

 frame. (Be sure to label it.) 

 The old roots may be planted 

 in the coldframe, or simply 

 laid on the surface of the soil, 

 but see that they have fairly 

 good balls of earth. 



A few degrees of freezing 

 will do no injury but in very 

 severe weather cover the 

 frames at night with some 

 protective material, such as 

 boards, sacks, etc. 



Do not water your plants 

 much during the winter; keep 

 them on the "dry side." Later 

 you will find that each old 

 root will send up shoots which 

 can be used as cuttings when 

 they are sufficiently large. 



