160 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



November, 1913 



II 



1 



ntry Life Press, 



Garden City, 



N. Y. 



FOR 35 CENTS 



The Garden and Farm Almanac 



Will Save You Dollars 



IT TELLS YOU HOW 



To recognize, combat and con- 

 quer the Insect Pests, Fungous Dis- 

 eases and Weeds that attack garden, 

 farm and orchard crops. 



To estimate the cost of farm 

 houses, barns, poultry sheds, the 

 water supply, the silo, and the de- 

 tailed operations of farm work 

 such as plowing, planting, harvest- 

 ing, etc. 



To choose the right book on any 

 phase of garden or farm activity. 



To estimate the amount of hay 

 in a stack according to the latest 

 Department of Agriculture meth- 

 ods. 



To plan your vegetable and 

 flower gardens, shrubbery border 

 and orchard. 



To diagnose and treat the com- 

 mon diseases of farm animals. 



To make whitewash for all pur- 

 poses. 



To know whether you get what 

 you pay for in buying "pure seed." 



To make cloth waterproof. 



To make spray mixtures in 

 small, convenient quantities. 



To estimate the weight of cattle. 



To keep ahead of the garden 

 work month by month. 



The Revised 1914 Edition 



Contains Features that 



are Absolutely 



New. Almost 200 



Large Pages 



Fully Illus- 



\ trated. 



19 14 



GARDEN AND FARM 



ALMANAC 



Typical Contents 

 (Partial) 



Animal Diseases and Remedies 



Analysis of Soils 



Guide for the Best Annual Flowers 



Composition of Milk of Differ- 

 ent Breeds 



How to Build a Storage Cellar 



How to Make Cloth Waterproof 



Iceless Cold Storage 



How to Make and Use Concrete 



Breeds of Ducks 



Amount of Wire for a Fence 



Points on Feeding Your Cattle 



Measurement Table for Lumber 



Raising Pigs for Profit 



Cost of a Greenhouse 



Rations for a Horse 



How to Build an Ice House 



The Best Lawn Grasses 



First Aid to the Injured 



Average Period of Incubation 



Principles of Garden Planning 



Value of Hay as a Food 



Heating the Greenhouse 



m 



I 



Late Fall Planting 



IN MY experience the fall of the year is the best 

 time to set out an orchard, or in tact co transplant 

 any kind of tree, whether for ornamental or prac- 

 tical use. There are exceptions, however, and 

 trees of a tender nature, such as magnolias and 

 peaches, are not safe for fall planting. The shock of 

 transplanting, followed by a severe winter, appears 

 to be more than many trees can stand. 



One important factor in fall planting is that the 

 sun is not so hot and drying as in spring. There 

 may be as much wind, causing the roots to dry, but 

 a wet covering should always be kept over the 

 roots for protection while planting is going on. 

 And usually the ground is in a better condition to 

 receive them, and we are not so likely to have a dry 

 November as a dry spring. 



Wet the soil and lightly pack it around the roots. 

 Bank a few shovelsful of earth around the roots to 

 shed the water and protect the trees from mice. 

 This applies to ornamental trees as well as to 

 orchard trees. I have seen trees but a few feet 

 from a house badly damaged by mice eating the 

 bark just above the ground. 



Another very important factor in favor of fall 

 planting is the fact that seldom, if ever, does the 

 nurseryman make a mistake in shipping an order, 

 as he has plenty of time. The trees are selected, 

 when dug from the nursery row, and packed for 

 shipment, while if held over for spring delivery they 

 are stored over winter in a cellar, tied up in bundles 

 and then shipped during the rush of the season. 



In the spring the ground should be dug or plowed 

 away from the roots a little so that the warm rains 

 may soak in, and about a week later the ground 

 can be leveled up again. After that, frequent culti- 

 vation will materially help their growth. If trees 

 are planted in the lawn, leave a circular spot at least 

 three feet across for digging around to keep the 

 soil open and soft. 



The trimming can be done at time of planting 

 or early in spring, before the buds start. I have 

 tried both methods, and cannot see any difference 

 in the results. 



New York Arthur E. Bell. 



Lime-Sulphur Spray Compound 



KILLING San Jose scale is only one of a number 

 of things the standard lime-sulphur compound 

 is good for, in garden and greenhouse. For grapes 

 and plums in the open I prefer it to bordeaux. It 

 does not scar the fruit; and peach growers hold 

 that as a summer spray, dilute, it makes brilliant 

 sweet fruit. Certainly I get brilliant sweet peaches 

 from using it, in conjunction with plenty of muriate 

 of potash on the soil around the trees in May and 

 June. The waxy rot diminishes on peach trees 

 that have a dormant spraying for scale; it vanishes, 

 if to the dormant sprayings be added two summer 

 doses of the dilute compound. Grape rot is pre- 

 vented in the same way. The dilute solution has 

 almost no effect on the hands of the operator, and 

 is cleaner than bordeaux mixture to use. 



Pots, boxes, and seedpans, if not new, are likely 

 to hold spores of mildew or "damping off" rot 

 dangerous to tomato, aster, verbena, pansy, dahlia, 

 or scarlet sage seedlings. Any crock or box im- 

 mersed five minutes in lime sulphur and water at 

 half the scale-killing dilution, is sterilized and safer 

 than ordinary. Asters are very subject to damping 

 off when young. If the contagion shows in a batch, 

 mix lime-sulphur very weak, so that the water is 

 hardly more than a bright canary yellow, and pour 

 quickly into the pans and flats so as to fill the sur- 

 face evenly and float the seed-leaves. Pour off. 

 As a general rule, most of the seedlings attacked 

 will rally after such treatment. I have had them 

 live with their stems visibly withered and contracted 

 on one side at the ground, where the fungus ap- 

 peared to have left a wound. The spread of the 

 infection to healthy plants ceases after the disin- 

 fecting wash. So much as soaks into the top soil 

 does not retard growth of roots in the least. 



Delphinium "blacks" apparently lives over 

 winter in the hollow stems of the plants, or in rub- 

 bish over the crowns. Clear a delphinium bed 

 thoroughly in March of any leaves, weeds, or woody 

 fibre. When new shoots are two inches high, spray 

 them, the crowns, and the surface of the whole bed 



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