The Garden Magazine 



Volume XVIII 



_ 



For the purpose of 

 reckoning dates, 

 the latitude of New 

 York City is gener 

 ally taken as a stan- 

 dard. In applying 

 the directions to 

 other localities allow 

 six days' difference 

 for every hundred 

 miles of latitude. 



JANUARY, 1 914 



Number 6 



Chief activities of 

 this month: Read- 

 ing up the new cat- 

 alogues, making out 

 the seed order, plan- 

 ning the season's 

 work, moving large 

 trees, getting tools 

 in order. 



BEFORE all else get acquainted with the new season's cata- 

 logues and novelty offers . Write to-day for such as you need . 

 This is the cornerstone, basis, foundation, veritably the 

 fundamental step in building a good garden. 

 The succeeding steps, many of which are discussed in detail on 

 succeeding pages of this number of The Garden Magazine, may 

 be set down in order, to be checked off as you accomplish them. 



i. Make a map of your garden plot to scale, not less than one- 

 half inch to the foot if possible. 



2. Make a list of seeds and plant requirements (after the cata- 

 logues arrive, of course), taking into account: 



a. The size and capacity of your family and its special pre- 

 ferences as to varieties, etc. 



b. The limitations and special adaptations of your soil, lo- 

 cation, climate, etc. 



c. The probable water, manure and labor supply for the com- 

 ing year. Don't try to raise more than you can really care for. 



Note: Don't forget to try, on a small scale, two or three 

 "novelties," as well as the standard, well known sorts. 



3. Work up a detailed plan of the garden, involving every square 

 foot of space, all the seeds you order, and the entire season's range. 

 Observe as closely as may be these principles: 



a. Plant in rows the long way of the garden, not in beds. 

 (An exception is corn which, in a long, single row or two, is liable 

 not to pollinate. Therefore, plant it in blocks.) 



b. Run the rows north and south if possible. 



c. Put the tall, dense crops— corn, pole beans, etc. — at the 

 western end where they will shade the others the least — that is, 

 from the late afternoon sun. 



d. Group rows of crops needing one foot or less between them 

 at one end, those needing eighteen inches next, and so on, grad- 

 ually increasing the spaces as you go. 



e. Keep together, however, the perennial crops and next them 

 the all-season sorts, such as carrot, salsify, parsnip, etc. Small, 

 quick growers can often be worked in between larger but slower 

 maturing species. 



f. Make use of the possibilities of succession as well as com- 

 panion cropping (just mentioned). 



4. Make arrangements fcr manure to be spread at the earliest 

 moment, unless it is being applied daily from your own stable. 



5. Look up the tool inventory made (presumably) last fall, or go 

 over the tools themselves and make a list of necessary replacements 

 and repairs. Then, don't file it away and forget it, but buy what is 

 needed at once. 



6. What spray materials are you sure to need? Better make out 

 an order for them while in the tabular frame of mind. 



7. Buy or make wooden labels and write on them the names of 

 varieties you are sure of using. 



8. Complete the plans for that hotbed. 



9. Get a place ready for the seeds you order where they will be 

 safe from mice and moisture until planting time. An old tin bread 

 box is just the thing. 



Indoors with the Growing Plants 



CHRISTMAS and New Year's presents of growing plants need 

 not be discarded when the first flush of blossoms fade. In 

 most cases you can cut off the flower stems, give the plants a rest 

 by keeping them almost dry for a month or two, and then, by grad- 

 ually watering and feeding, bring them into condition to bloom 

 freely some time during the summer. Daisies, azaleas, begonias 

 and most woody plants can be so treated. 



But it rarely pays to save tulip, hyacinth, and other bulbs that 

 have been forced to a magnificent splurge of bloom and a state of 

 utter uselessness for the future. 



Give all house plants a real shower bath every fortnight or so, 

 and every now and then set pots containing ferns and other 

 moisture lovers in water nearly up to their tops until the soil is 

 thoroughly wet. 



Continual wateringfrom the top tends to pack the soil and destroy 

 its aeration. Loosen it with a small stick or fork every little while. 



A weekly, weak solution of nitrate of soda (or the pulverized man- 

 ures that can be bought in pound packages) is better than a 

 monthly dose of a rich, concentrated extract, especially for plants 

 that are in weak, impoverished condition. 



If you belong to a garden club, don't let the meetings become un- 

 interesting just because you cannot be outdoors. Now is the time 

 to enjoy those little theoretical, technical discussions on botany, 

 plant breeding, plant physiology, fertilizers, etc., that make garden- 

 ing something more than mere digging and weeding and bug killing. 



Besides, who says you cannot be outdoors now? How about a 

 Saturday's tramp and a subsequent discussion on " Winter Colors 

 with Evergreens and Bright Berries? " 



Thoughts of Outdoors 



ONE of the best things you can do now for the 19 14 garden is 

 to think about that of 191 3. Wherein did it satisfy you, 

 and wherein disappoint ? What things have you learned not to do 

 and what others did you wish you had done and swear to do 

 "next time?"^ 

 In spite of snow and frozen ground you can: 



(1) Lay out your ground and measure it accurately, prepara- 

 tory to making the careful map and plan mentioned above. 



(2) Spread manure. 



(3) Cut out dead wood and do odd pruning jobs to improve 

 the shape of fruit trees and bushes. 



(4) Look after the protective coverings on borders, lest they 

 get water soaked and solid; and on roses and young evergreens, 

 lest they blow away. 



(5) Give the birds a treat and enlist them for your next 

 insect campaign, by scattering crumbs or grain about, and by 

 tying bones and suet in the trees. 



(6) English ivy (Hedera Helix) is ordinarily hardy, but on 

 the north side of a building or wall, a protection of burlap or 



217 



