28 



The Garden Magazine, March, 1922 



THE VERY HONEY OF ALL EARTHLY JOY "— Cowley 



E. H. Lincoln, Photo. 



with the concave side away from the planter and the point 

 slanted toward him, it is then brought to a nearly upright 

 position and the plant is swung into the opening by the free 

 hand, with a quick movement that spreads the roots out like 

 the ribs of a fan. The trowel is withdrawn as the plant is 

 placed in the hole, and, as the planter moves forward to set the 

 next plant, he presses quickly and firmly upon the soil close to 

 the plant toward it and downward with one hand or his knee. 

 If the crown of the plant be slightly above the soil when it is 

 placed in the hole, this pressure should leave it just even with 

 the surface. If the gardener finds difficulty about setting the 

 plants at the right depth, they may be held in the desired 

 position while the soil is pressed against the roots. 



North of Washington, D. C, the best time to plant Straw- 

 berries is before they start growth in spring; also in August or 

 September, preferably with potted plants; though that is not 

 generally so satisfactory a planting season in the North. Below 

 Washington, however, early autumn is the safer time, as the 

 newly set plants thus escape the long hot summer and still have 

 a considerable growing season. 



Cultivation : Tools for the Purpose 



SOON after planting, the soil (which has been packed in plant- 

 ing) should be cultivated deeply and cultivation continued 

 at intervals of about ten days until early autumn. After that 



date give about three cultivations, the last coming a little before 

 freezing weather. 



Until the runners start, the wheel cultivator can do most of 

 the work, a half-moon hoe being used in the rows. After the 

 new plants start and before their leaves are large, there is no 

 handier tool to preserve the soil mulch and keep weeds from ap- 

 pearing, with little danger of injury to runners, than the potato 

 hook. Later, the half-moon hoe and very narrow bladed hoes 

 are best for working in the rows. 



Until theplants are strong, all flower stalks should be removed 

 frequently from the new bed and all runners destroyed. Usually 

 the runners set in spring may be allowed to grow late in June. It 

 is a good plan to place them about every two weeks, until the 

 rows are well supplied with plants, and to destroy all runners 

 that come later. When a plant dies, train the runners from the 

 neighboring plants to fill the vacancy, and, if need be, also move 

 extra plants with balls of earth from places where they are 

 abundant. To keep a runner in place, put a little soil or a 

 pebble on the cord just back of the forming plant. 



The beginner will be surprised to find that, with a favorable 

 season and good care, varieties that are only moderate plant 

 producers will form well filled beds before September, when the 

 parent plants are set from 30 to 36 inches apart in rows 4 or 5 

 feet apart. Wide spacing makes early cultivation easier, greatly 

 reduces the amount of thinning necessary, and permits the 

 growing of some early companion crop, as Lettuce, or Peas. 



