104 



The Garden Magazine, April, 1922 



FOUNDATION PLANTING THAT IS TWELVE YEARS OLD 



These slow-growing evergreens were set out more than a dozen years ago and there have been no replacements or transplantings since. It will be 

 several years more before any changes are necessary. Red Cedar; Japan Cypress in variety including some golden forms (pisifera, plumosa, filifera, 

 squarrosa); Mugho Pine; George Peabody and Globe Dwarf Arborvitaes; Hemlock; Norway Spruce; and Pfitzer Juniper; with Ampelopsis on the house 



foliage of which lends an interesting color note; incidentally 

 the spicy odor is decidedly agreeable during the summer-time, 

 when the windows will be open. 



As foreground shrubs, first and foremost comes the Japanese 

 Barberry, one of the very best of all shrubs for this purpose, as 

 it can be kept quite low-headed and bushes close to the ground. 

 It has an interesting habit of growth, will stand unusually bad 

 soil and climatic conditions until it gets south of Washington, 

 and is especially interesting during the winter months because 

 of the red berries which completely cover the shrub at that 

 season. The Coral-berry, also a prolific fruiter and with branches 

 dropping to the ground, will stand a considerable amount of 

 shade. Dwarf Spireas, Deutzia Lemoinei, Lace Shrub, and one 

 or two of the herbaceous perennials, such as Funkia, Hemero- 

 callis, and Peonies, will round out most needs. South of Wash- 

 ington the Abelia occupies a place in foundation planting which, 

 for all-round purposes, is only equalled by the Japanese Bar- 

 berry in the North. 



These plants are among the easiest to grow and care for and 

 are readily obtainable from all nurseries. If there are large 

 wall spaces with high windows or bits of high foundation against 

 which we may use plants ranging from six to ten feet in height, 

 choice may turn to the Lilacs, Forsythias, Mock Oranges, and 

 shrubs of like character. 



Practical Application to the Problem 



AN EASY and efficient manner of preparing the beds for the 

 A reception of the stock is to mark on the ground the out- 

 lines of the bed areas to correspond to the bed areas planned on 

 paper, using small wooden stakes. (See Fig. Ill, page 102) This 

 procedure will save a deal of trouble in digging the areas to the 

 required size. Any poor soil in the bed areas should be replaced 

 to a depth of from eighteen inches to two feet with good garden 

 loam, or the existing soil enriched by digging in a generous 

 quantity of well-rotted manure by thoroughly spading up for a 

 depth of from eighteen to twenty-four inches, or even more. If 



this can be done considerably in advance of actual planting, the 

 action of rainfall will thoroughly incorporate the fertilizing ma- 

 terial with the main body of the soil. When starting the actual 

 planting, go over the bed areas and with a stake mark out the 

 location of each individual shrub, after which the holes may be 

 dug ready to receive the plants, and a covering of soil quickly 

 thrown over the roots, thereby avoiding any drying out through 

 exposure. If drainage conditions around the foundations are 

 poor and the soil is likely to be unusually wet during heavy rains, 

 it would be well to prepare a drainage area at the bottom of the 

 planting bed and connect this with the usual tiled drain which is 

 placed immediately outside of the footings of the cellar walls. 

 (Fig. VII, page 102) This is to be done, of course, when the 

 original staking is done. If no tile is present, a line of tile may 

 be put in and connected with the storm drainage system of the 

 house, or run into a sinkhole at a considerable distance from 

 the building. 



On the arrival of the nursery stock, break out bundles and 

 " heel-in " at a conveniently handy spot in the garden area. This 

 is done by digging a shallow trench in which the roots of the 

 plants are laid at an angle, a generous quantity of earth being 

 thrown over the roots and the lower portion of the plants in order 

 to prevent drying out of the root system. Keep each variety 

 separate so that any required plants may be readily located at 

 planting time. 



When planting shrubs in a narrow bed, as necessitated by a 

 walk close to the side of the house, be careful so to place each 

 shrub that it slants slightly toward the building, as otherwise 

 it has a tendency to encroach upon the walk area as it develops 

 size. If properly inclined, a little helpful pruning will keep the 

 head clear of the walk area. (Fig. V, page 102) 



A rough rule for determining the distance apart for the plants 

 to be spaced is that the average shrub will grow in width a 

 distance equal to two thirds of its height; the height of the 

 shrub can usually be found in the descriptive matter of the 

 nursery catalogue or reference book. 



