106 



The Garden Magazine, April, 1922 



first year; of these, from three to five strong canes may be 

 saved about each parent crown, the rest being treated as 

 weeds. 



Growers are not of one mind about the fertilizing of Bram- 

 bles. However, good yields follow the moderate use of stable 

 manure as already given, supplemented in early spring by 

 commercial fertilizers, say 2 lbs. of acid phosphate, and ijlbs. 

 of high grade sulphate of potash per square rod, well worked in. 



If a good cover crop be worked into the soil each spring, the 

 addition of 5 lbs. per square rod of a fertilizer containing about 

 4% of nitrogen, 8% of phosphoric acid, and 10% of potash, will 

 amply supply the needs of the Brambles three years out of four, 

 the manure and supplementary fertilizers being used the fourth 

 year. 



The Dewberry is a native of thin soils and aside from the 

 working in of the cover crop should be fertilized sparingly. 



Pruning and Training for Fruit 



THE young shoots of the Blackberry and Black Raspberry 

 are usually nipped back to make the main stalks stocky and 

 cause strong laterals to be thrown out. About 2 ft. is a very 

 satisfactory height for the former, and 2! for the latter; but if 

 the young canes have passed the desired height, they should not 

 be shortened more than 6 inches, as severe shortening causes 

 weak laterals. Dewberries are not pinched back as they require 

 support under any condition; nor the Red Raspberries usually, 

 as most varieties produce weak laterals, and their tendency to 

 sucker is aggravated. The Herbert Red Raspberry, however, 

 responds to pinching back. 



The following spring the laterals of the Black Raspberry and 

 the Blackberry are pruned back, according to their vigor and the 

 location of their bloom. Varieties that carry their bloom near 

 the base of the lateral are pruned more severely than those that 

 bloom further out. But if the flowering habits of the variety 

 are not known it is well to delay pruning until the buds have 

 developed sufficiently to show the flower clusters. Prune away 

 about one third of the bloom on strong shoots and more on 

 weaker ones if there is an abundance. 



Prune Red Raspberry canes of average vigor to about 3 feet; 

 stronger ones being left higher. If laterals have been thrown 

 out, prune these according to their strength, 1 ft. or more for 

 the strong ones, the weaker to a few inches. Dewberry canes 

 are first to be tied up to stakes and then pruned to a convenient 

 length, usually 3 to 4 ft. 



After fruiting, the canes of the Brambles die; therefore, remove 

 and burn immediately after the fruit has been gathered, thus 

 giving more room to the young canes. 



Supports 



THOUGH nipping back Blackberry and Black Raspberry 

 canes may enable them to carry their fruit fairly well, it is 

 better to support them in some way. 



When the hill system is followed, there may be one or two 

 stakes to each hill. If one stake be used, the bearing canes are 

 tied to it and the young ones are left unsupported. If two 

 stakes be used, the young canes are tied to one and the bearing 

 canes to the other, an arrangement that helps in gathering fruit 

 and in removing the old canes after harvest. 



For the row system, light posts of durable timber may be set 

 20 to 30 ft. apart with cross-bars of inch wood, about 3 in. wide 

 and 18 in. long, centered on the posts at about 3 ft. high. No. 

 1 1 wires are stapled to the upper edges of these near their ends, 

 and the canes are supported between the wires without tying. 

 If Dewberries be so supported, however, the canes are tied, the 

 young ones to one wire and the old ones to the other. 



The various troubles of insect and disease that are likely to 

 attack may usually be controlled by faithfully carrying out the 

 following spray program: (1) spray the bushes while dormant 

 with copper sulphate, 1 oz. to 6 qts. of water; (2) spray with Dry 

 Bordeaux or Pyrox, prepared according to directions upon the 

 package, when the young canes are 6 in. high; (3) spray with 

 Pyrox or arsenate of lead just before blooming; (4) spray with Dry 

 Bordeaux when the old canes are cut out, just after harvesting the 

 fruit. Blackberries and Dewberries do not often need spraying. 



Whenever any cane looks sickly, cut it out and burn it. If the 

 whole plant should look sickly under good care, or should show 

 orange-red discolorations on the under surfaces of the leaves, dig 

 and burn it at once. When the old canes are removed, cut off 

 several inches below the injured part any tips of the young canes 

 that are wilted or any canes that show elongated swellings. In 

 setting out the plantation, reject and burn any plants that show 

 warty enlargements on roots or crowns. 



Gathering 



ALL these fruits are much better when they become fully 

 ripe, but not over ripe, on the bushes. Being tender, they 

 should be picked with the thumb and two fingers, as three 

 points of contact mean less pressure; and they should be laid, 

 not thrown, into the box. Do not gather the fruit when wet, 

 unless it is to be used quickly, and take the berries into a cool, 

 dark place promptly after they are picked. In average summer 

 weather the fruit should be picked every second day. 



Black Raspberries are ready to be gathered when they come 

 off readily without the stem. Red Raspberries lose some of 

 their glossiness, also usually turning darker, and enlarge and 

 soften when they ripen. Dewberries and Blackberries turn 

 black three days or so before they are fully ripe; when they are 

 ripe they are considerably larger, softer, and more juicy, and the 

 individual drupelets that compose them have increased greatly 

 in size. 



Varieties 



BLACK Raspberries begin ripening towards the end of June 

 (latitude of New York City) and usually last two weeks or 

 more. 



Plum Farmer and Black Pearl (not Black Diamond) are good 

 varieties; Cumberland is still good, but less healthy than the 

 other two. It is hard to get good plants of Gregg, Kansas, etc. 



The Red Raspberries begin ripening almost with the black 

 ones and have a much longer season. Cuthbert and Herbert 

 are excellent, in quality and otherwise. Ranere (St. Regis), 

 the everbearing variety, prefers a light sandy loam. It pro- 

 duces an early crop, then considerable fruit until frost, when the 

 season favors. La France and Latham are two comparatively 

 new everbearing kinds that I have not tested under varied 

 conditions, but they are well spoken of by others, and La France 

 has large, luscious fruit of rich color borne until winter. The 

 standard yellow fruited variety is Golden Queen. In case the 

 Purple Raspberry should be desired, plant Columbian. 



The Blackberry- Dewberry hybrid, known as McDonald Black- 

 berry, begins ripening about with the Dewberries, by the middle 

 of July (latitude of New York City) and continues until the mid- 

 season varieties are in. As it requires cross-pollination, every 

 fourth or fifth plant should be Early Harvest Blackberry. 

 Blowers, Mersereau, or Eldorado would be a high quality mid- 

 season variety. Ward is well suited to sandy loams. Taylor is 

 one of the best late varieties. 



Lucretia is the leading Dewberry and frequently needs cross 

 pollination, Early Harvest Blackberry or the Austin Dewberry 

 being satisfactory for that purpose. If the soil is not very good, 

 Dewberries may well be omitted. 



