WHEN TO DO WHAT YOU WANT TO DO 



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MAY— MOVING TOWARD THE MAXIMUM 



Herein are listed the seasonal activities for the complete garden. Details of how to do each item may 

 be found in the current or the back issues of The Garden Magazine — it is manifestly impossible to 

 make each number of the magazine a complete manual of practice. References to back numbers may be 

 looked up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request); the Service Department will also 

 be glad to cite references to any special topic if asked by mail and to send personal replies to specific ques- 

 tions; a stamped, addressed envelope being enclosed. ... 



When referring to the time for out-door work of any sort New York City (latitude^) at sea level in 

 a normal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the season 

 advances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles from New 

 York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest, about a week 

 earlier. Also allow four days for each degree of latitude, for each five degrees of longitude, and for each 

 four hundred feet of altitude. 



(Copyright, 1922, Doubleday, Page y Co.) 



HEN the first flush of spring enthusiasm has expended itself 

 in the planting of early crops, we are sometimes prone to 

 slacken our efforts and that just at a time when more and 

 more attention is essential for the successful future of the gar- 

 den, and indeed for the comfort and pleasure of the gardener 

 as well. Returns will be in proportion to present industry, and neglect 

 at this time will result in more and much harder work later on. What 

 is pleasant exercise to-day may become a laborious necessity a little 

 later. 



About the Grounds 



Any patching of the lawns to be completed at once and don't wait too 

 long before cutting grass. Planting of deciduous stock to be com- 

 pleted and evergreens moved before growth starts. Apply a good 

 mulch after thoroughly watering late planted stock. 



Late in the month spray for the elm-leaf beetle, using an arsenate. 



Before the leaves expand destroy caterpillar nests on the trees by means 

 of a kerosene torch. After the caterpillars have hatched they 

 must be poisoned by spraying the leaves with an arsenate. 



Prune all early flowering shrubs as soon as they are through flowering. 



Hydrangeas to be watered with alum water if blue flowers are 

 required, though the effect may not develop till next year. 



Fruit Garden 



Many of the small fruits may yet be planted, but not with the same 

 prospect of good crops as assured by earlier planting. 



Keep hoe and cultivator constantly at work not only to check weeds 

 but to loosen and aerate the soil. 



Give the strawberry patch an application of fertilizer, raking it in, and 

 spread a mulch of straw or lawn clippings to keep the fruit clean. 



A sharp lookout should be kept for currant worm which soon strips 

 the leaves off the bushes. Hellebore powder applied with bellows 

 early in the morning while the leaves are yet wet with dew is 

 effective, or arsenates. 



Spray fruit trees (i) as the buds swell, (2) when the blossoms show pink, 

 and (3) as the last of the petals are falling. Use lime-sulphur 

 1-40; lead arsenate 1-20; nicotine (as Black Leaf 40) 1 pint to 100 

 gallons water, for scale, codling moth, and aphis, respectively. 



Mildew on Gooseberries is controlled by the sulphide of potassium. 



Sow cover crops in the orchard where intercropping with vegetables or 

 other things is not done; these to be plowed under when a good 

 stand is obtained. If this is not practical, mulch round the trees 

 with leaves, lawn clippings, grass weeds, previously scattering 4 

 or 5 lbs. of acid phosphate around each large tree as far as the 

 spread of the branches. 



Vegetable Garden 



Light and frequent cultivation of early planted crops now breaking 

 through the soil not only prevents the weeds from getting ahead, 

 but prevents loss of much needed moisture by arresting the capil- 

 lary ascent of water when it meets the layer of well worked sur- 

 face soil. 



Thin out young vegetable seedlings as soon as the second true leaves 

 show. Overcrowding is detrimental. 



Underground worms which attack such root crops as Beets, Radishes, 

 etc., may be controlled by lime, soot, or tobacco dust scattered 

 over the ground before planting, lightly raked in. 



168 



Keep the asparagus bed clear of weeds. 



Cut off seed pods of Rhubarb plants. If seeding is persistent, the roots 



need moving, so make a note for future use. 

 Get in poles for Tomatoes (or, if trellises are used, get them into place) 



prior to setting out the plants after all danger of killing frosts is 



past. 

 Harden off and set out late in the month Egg-plants, Peppers, Musk- 

 melons, Watermelons, and Cucumbers. Weather and local 



conditions must be the guide if you do not use protectors. Seeds 



may now be planted in drills or hills. On light soils planting in 



rows on level ground is satisfactory. Rich ground is essential. 



Well rotted manure, pulverized sheep manure, and ground bone, 



are excellent supplements to good natural soil. 

 Lettuce to be sown every two weeks to keep up a regular supply. After 



the middle of the month sow the Crisp-head varieties like Iceberg 



and New York (see pages 1 16-1 18 April Garden Magazine). 

 String Beans to be sown regularly every two weeks. All sorts of Pole 



Beans may be planted now. Set the poles first, using manure 



and fertilizer in the hill. 

 Several sowings of Peas to be made during the month, making drills 



deeper than for the earlier sowings. 

 Make succession sowings of Beets and Carrots. 

 Endive to be sown in small quantities at frequent intervals to maintain 



regular supply. 

 Corn to be sown as soon as the ground is fit and plant successions at 



short intervals. Try planting one row each of an early, midseason, 



and late kind at one time. 

 Early Celery to be planted out. Seed of late Celery for winter use to 



be sown at once, if not already done; also Celeriac which requires 



a long season of growth. 

 Make up a seed bed outdoors and sow such Brassicas as Late Cabbage, 



Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Kale, etc. 

 Chicory, or French Endive, to be sown to secure roots for forcing next 



winter. 

 Sow Okra when the ground becomes really warmed. 

 As insect and other pests will soon become active, see that supplies of 



necessary spraying- materials are on hand. 



Flower Garden 



Perennials still to be shifted or thinned out to be attended to at once. 

 Where early plants are not available from greenhouse or hotbed, 

 all kinds may be sown in the open ground for blooming in July. 

 Lupines, Candytuft, Calendulas, Nasturtiums, Eschscholtzias, 

 Lavatera, etc. are better sown where they are to flower, and 

 thinned. Others may be sown in prepared beds, and transferred as 

 occasion requires. 



Portulaca, Petunia, and Nicotiana are slow to germinate in open 

 ground, hence allow plenty of time. The more hardy things may 

 be sown early in the month; and the tender ones toward the end. 



Achillea cut to the ground when it has finished flowering, will give a 

 second crop of bloom late in the season. 



Delphiniums to be kept staked up; remove all seed pods, and feed 

 frequently with liquid manure. 



Iris need an abundance of water after flowering. 



Roses will be opening leaves by the first week of the month; spray 

 against mildew with \ oz. sulphide of potassium to a gallon of 

 water. When the buds form, give manure-water. Use whale-oil 

 soap 1 lb. to 8 gallons water for aphis. Cultivate to keep down 



