The Garden Magazine, May, 1922 



169 



weeds and to retain soil moisture. Pansies set in the rose bed add 

 not a little to the general appearance, but make cultivation more 

 difficult. Rose blooms to be cut in the early morning before the 

 sun strikes them; if put in a cool place in fresh water for a few hours 

 before being placed in the house they will keep much better. 



Sweet-peas need well fertilized ground, plenty of moisture, and the 

 roots kept cool by a mulch. 



Bedding out may be started in earnest some time after the middle of the 

 month, according to locality. Begin with the more hardy things 

 and be careful to thoroughly harden-off such tender subjects as 

 Cannas, Coleus, etc. 



Prepare a bed for sowing perennials and biennials for next season's 

 garden. 



Prepare ground for summer flowering bulbs and tubers, of which the 

 Gladiolus and Dahlias are the most popular; Tuberous Begonias 

 are useful for shady beds; the Evening Star (Cooperia Drum- 

 mondii) has pure white flowers; Lilies include auratum, speciosum, 

 tigrinum, etc., the common Day-lilies (Funkia and Hemerocallis) 

 may be added. 



Peonies will be benefited when the buds show, by surface dressing of 

 sheep manure, nitrate of soda, or liquid manure. 



Early Asters to go outdoors as soon as possible in well prepared ground; 

 rotted barnyard manure is best, but failing this, commercial potato 

 fertilizer. 



Window boxes to be repaired, and new ones made and filled as soon as 

 possible. A generous compost is essential, since a great number of 

 plants are crowded into a limited space, and they must be well fed if 

 they are to look their best right along. A layer of manure in the 

 bottom of the box, with a compost of three parts good garden 

 soil and one part manure mixed together, and a six-inch pot of 

 bone meal to each bushel of soil will give the plants a good start. 



Lily-of-the-valley may still be planted outdoors; rather moist position 

 with some shade suits best. 



It is not too late to plant Aquatics. Nymphaeas may be grown suc- 

 cessfully in tanks, vats, or barrel ends in pools or sunk in the ground. 



The Frames 



These will now be fully occupied with annuals and bedding plants de- 

 manding water more freely, and ample ventilation with a view to 

 dispensing altogether with the sash before setting the occupants 

 outdoors. As space is cleared, lightly fork over the soil and 

 prepare to sow perennials, and biennials. 



Hills may be prepared, and Cucumbers of the English frame type 

 sown to occupy the frames for the rest of the summer. Melons 

 may be used in this way too. 



The young Carnation plants hardening in the frames may be planted 

 outside. Keep well cultivated, and growths pinched, since upon 

 the treatment they receive now depends to a great extent their 

 success next winter. 



The Greenhouses 



Next winter's supply of flowers must be thought of now. As soon as 

 possible empty the houses of all hard-wooded plants such as Aza- 

 leas, Genistas, Acacias, Bougainvilleas, etc., plunging them out- 

 doors to ripen their wood. 



Begonias, Gloxinias, and other flowering plants grown in the green- 

 house, to be well fed; Cyclamen and Primulas may be placed in 

 coldframes, and slightly shaded. 



Plants of Winter-flowering Begonias need attention before they become 

 pot-bound. Give a light compost made up of a good deal of flaky 



leaf-mold, good loam, screened cow manure, and sand, and a 

 temperature of 60 to 62 degrees at night. 



The flowering season of Amaryllis being past, the plants may be placed 

 in frames, and plunged up to the rims. Give weak liquid manure 

 once a week at first and twice later on; syringe every fine day, and 

 see that they are not in need of water. Any attention given 

 now while making their growth will be repaid when the next 

 flowering season comes. 



Gardenias should be planted early. Clean benches and a rich, porous 

 soil and good drainage are necessary. Syringe well every day 

 after planting, to ward off insect pests and mealy bugs. A night 

 temperature of 70 degrees suits. 



Stocks for winter flowering to be sown now. Princess Alice, and 

 Beauty of Nice are good types. Grow cool. 



Show Pelargoniums now coming into flower will justify all the care 

 given them during the next few weeks. Fumigate to keep free 

 from aphis, and keep the greenhouse cool and airy, with no direct 

 rays of sun on the plants. 



Bulbs of Achimenes started in heat late in March will now have made 

 some growth, and two or three of the bulbs may be placed to- 

 gether in pans or baskets, and gradually inured to the greenhouse, 

 where they will provide a blaze of color. Light shading is neces- 

 sary. 



Adiantums in large pots that were rested during the winter will now 

 have a dense crop of young fronds. Any not repotted will be 

 benefited by weak doses of liquid manure once a week. A little 

 shade will keep the frond a dark uniform color. A. Croweanum 

 and A. cuneatum require a night temperature of 60 degrees with 

 70 to 75 degrees sun heat during the day. A. Farleyense requires 

 from 65 to 70 degrees at night. 



Chrysanthemums for exhibition to be kept growing without a check. 

 A good soil is turfy loam, with one third well rotted cow manure 

 and a sprinkling of bone meal. Do not over water, and attend to 

 tying, staking, pinching, and keeping the plants free from aphis. 



Bouvardias may be planted out in loamy soil, and pinched back three 

 or four times during the summer to make husky plants for lifting 

 in the fall. 



Snapdragons for winter flowering to be started. 



Melons for a midseason crop to be started now. They will produce a 

 crop in about 14 weeks (September); any of the English forcing 

 types may be used. 



The rose benches to be cleaned out and painted with hot whitewash 

 before any replanting is done. If the plants are to be carried 

 over another year, dry off gradually in order to rest them; but do 

 not over-do it, or they may take a permanent rest. 



Among the Orchids 



Calanthes may be started into growth in flats of sand. Pot the bulbs 

 when the roots are quite short. Pot firmly and water sparingly 

 until the roots get into the soil. Another useful terrestrial Orchid is 

 Phaius grandiflora, which will soon be in flower. It needs a tem- 

 perature of 60 degrees at night, a good water supply, and weak cow 

 manure to strengthen the flower spikes. 



Odontoglossums are now in the height of their season. The plants 

 need full sun for some time longer to redden up their leaves, 

 thus making them tough to withstand the heat of summer. All 

 enjoy more water at the roots now. 



A temperature of 55 degrees at night is ample for them. A light 

 spraying on bright days is beneficial. Protect the flower spikes 

 from snails by wrapping cotton wool around the base of the spikes. 



When Dogwood flowers are open- 

 ing, corn-planting time is come 



