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JUNE— ENJOYING THE FRUITS OF INDUSTRY 





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Herein are listed the seasonal activities for the complete garden. Details of how to do each item may 

 be found in the current or the back issues of The Garden Magazine — it is manifestly impossible to 

 make each number of the magazine a complete manual of practice. References to back numbers may be 

 looked up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request); the Service Department will also 

 be glad to cite references to any special topic if asked by mail and to send personal replies to specific ques- 

 tions; a stamped, addressed envelope being enclosed. 



When referring to the time for outdoor work of any sort New York City (latitude 40) at sea level in 

 a normal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the season 

 advances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles' from New 

 York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest, about a week 

 earlier. Also allow four days for each degree of latitude, for each five degrees of longitude, and for each 

 four hundred feet of altitude. 



(Copyright, 1922, Doublcday, Page y Co.) 





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}N EXACT proportion to the time and effort previously put 

 into it, the garden is now beginning to yield returns in kind. 

 Peas, Spinach, Green Onions, Radishes, salads, etc., are now 

 to be had for the gathering, yet if a regular succession is to 

 be maintained, the pace set during the last two months must 

 be kept up. Not only must more plantings be made, but the crops 

 now growing need protection and insurance from insect and disease 

 often troublesome in the June garden. 



The Intruding Hosts 



Plant lice, or aphis, on Cantaloupes, Cabbage, etc., may be checked by 

 spraying with Black Leaf 40, or any approved nicotine extract. 

 Do the spraying during the cool of the evenings and take care to 

 wet the under side of the leaf. 



Squash needs protection from the striped cucumber beetle and flea 

 beetle while they are still small; use arsenate of lead powder, one 

 ounce to three pounds of dry land plaster, or air-slaked lime, or 

 very finely sifted ashes. To a certain extent the squash bug may 

 also be thus attacked, but at times that pest appears to be im- 

 pervious to poison, and hand picking has to be resorted to. If 

 the leaves show signs of wilting, examine the stem near the root 

 for the borer, and if it has not gone too far it may be cut out and 

 the vine will recover. In any case it is a good plan to cover 

 several of the vine joints with soil to encourage the formation of 

 independent roots. 



For rust and blight of Celery and dark brown spots on the Beans, spray 

 with bordeaux, or better still with bordeaux-arsenate, and get 

 some of the leaf-eating pests at the operation. 



Irregular holes in the Cabbage leaves? Either arsenate of lead or 

 paris green, one ounce to ten gallons of water; and use it on Cauli- 

 flower, Kale, Brussels-sprouts, Kohlrabi. Slug-shot is a handy 

 material for general use in the vegetable garden against worms 

 and caterpillars — it is not poisonous but is effective. 



If cutworms nip off the newly set plants, feed a supper of bran mois- 

 tened with sweetened water until it will crumble, and add paris 

 green one ounce to three pounds of bran. Put it around the 

 plants at night. 



Potatoes require the arsenate-bordeaux spray against blight and po- 

 tato bugs to "kill two birds with one stone"; and look out for the 

 Egg-plants, too! 



Succession Plantings 



Succession plantings to be made of all vegetables required for table 

 supply throughout the summer provide for fall crops by replanting 

 extra early varieties now on the decline — such as Beets, Radishes, 

 Lettuce, Spinach, etc. Have mid-summer Lettuce (see Garden 

 Magazine for April, pages 1 16-1 18) or Endive follow Early Beets; 

 Bush Beans after Radishes; Beets or Celery to follow Lettuce; 

 Lettuce or Beans to follow Onions. Extra early varieties of the 

 follow-up crops will oftentimes leave the ground available for 

 still another crop in August. 



Plant early varieties of Sweet Corn every week or ten days up to July 

 4th which should be the final planting on latitude 40 ; midseason 

 Lettuces, such as All-season, Iceberg, and Butterhead to be sown 

 all through this month. Fine summer Radishes are Long White 

 Vienna, Chartiers, and White Delicious. 



Winter Celery to be sown at once. Any sown last month may be 

 pricked off into a spent hotbed as soon as large enough to handle. 



Crops grown for their leaves (Chard, Spinach, Endive, etc.) will be 

 benefited by nitrogenous manures. Give top dressing of nitrate 

 of soda either immediately following a rain or on ground thor- 

 oughly saturated the night previous. Liquid manure is best, 

 however; to make: half fill a bag with manure and suspend in a 

 barrel of water. 



Cease cutting Asparagus as soon as other vegetables are plentiful. 



Transplant to permanent quarters: late Cauliflower, Cabbage, Kale, 

 Broccoli, and Brussels-sprouts. 



About the Grounds 



Get after the elm-leaf beetle early, as spraying is useless after the 



larvae begin to come down. Use arsenate of lead applied with a 



good pressure pump. 

 Keep clipped all kinds of trained plants and hedges. 

 Recently transplanted large trees, shrubbery, and other ornamentals 



to be well watered throughout the summer. 

 Evergreens will be benefited by overhead spraying twice a day. 

 Young shoots of climbing Roses and other climbers to be kept tied up. 

 Seed pods to be removed from Rhododendrons, Kalmias, Andromedas, 



etc., to reserve vigor for next year's bloom. 

 Prune early flowering shrubs as they pass out of bloom, removing the 



oldest wood that it may be replaced with young, vigorous shoots 



for next season's flowers. 

 Propagate now by cuttings of half-ripened wood shrubs and trees, to 



be rooted under glass; also layer as soon as shoots are long enough 



to permit it. 

 Pinch out side shoots of Evergreens to induce bushiness. 

 Grass edges to be neatly clipped; walks and drives to be raked and 



rolled frequently. 



The Flowers in the Garden 



Sweet -pea flowers to be picked determinedly; if seed pods form, plants 

 will stop producing. Keep well watered, for if the vines begin to 

 turn yellow that is the end. Bedding-out to be finished promptly, 

 setting aside a few surplus plants for replacements. 



Iris needs lots of water after blooming. Use bonemeal as fertilizer; top 

 dressing with manure is bad for Iris. The best time to divide, 

 transplant, or make new plantings of Iris is immediately after 

 the blooming period. 



Stake plants as they need it and before they blow over. 



Cut to the ground Achillea as soon as through flowering to provide for 

 a second crop later in the season. 



Coreopsis kept cut close will make a display all through the season. 



Keep picked off all dead leaves and flowers as they fade. 



Flower Seeds to be Sown 



Sow now seed from such early flowering plants as Columbines, Lark- 

 spurs, etc., to produce good plants before the fall. 



Late-flowering Tulips may be lifted as they pass out of bloom and 

 heeled in elsewhere to ripen, the vacancies being filled with annuals. 

 Those known as "croppers" are best for this purpose. 



Still time to get a supply of seeds of annuals and enjoy a perfect sea 

 of bloom ere the fall frosts arrive. To be sown now: Snapdragons, 

 Asters, annual Gaillardia, Clarkia, Larkspur, Lupin, Poppy, 

 Alyssum, Arctotis, Balsam, Calendula, Calliopsis, Candytuft, 

 Cornflower, Centaurea, Cleome, Globe-amaranth, annual Gypso- 



236^ 



