The Garden Magazine, June, 1922 



243 



the summer or early autumn, it had better be deferred until 

 spring. 



Plant the bulbous Irises in autumn. The Spanish likes a 

 warm, rich soil, but unfortunately disappears after a few years. 

 The English Iris can stand a somewhat colder, wetter soil than 

 the Spanish and seems really happy almost anywhere. 



The hosts of green worms which sometimes attack the J apanese 

 Iris leaves can be successfully destroyed with one or two spray- 

 ings of arsenate of lead; and green aphis succumbs to an applica- 

 tion of any good nicotine solution. 



SOME TYPICAL SELECTIONS BY COLOR 



[The varieties discussed in the foregoing text are here grouped according to 

 color. They by no means exhaust the list nor do they even lay claim to being 

 the most distinguished of their kind, but were chosen by Mrs. Gaul as represen- 

 tative examples of some popular Irises that have afforded a successful succession 

 of bloom in her own garden. — Ed.] 



I. Blue to Lavender 



pumila coerula, sky-blue (very early) 



Fairy, pale and deep blue (very early) 



gracilis, lavender and silver-gray (very early) 



cristata, amethyst-blue (early) 



pallida, gray-blue to lavender (mid-season) 



pallida dalmatica, blue-lavender (mid-season) 



versicolor, blue (late) 



George Wallace, pale blue (late) 



sibirica acuta, blue, veined with white (late) 



Blue King, blue (late) 



longipetala superba, porcelain blue, gold at base of falls (late) 



tectorum, heavenly blue (late) 



II. Lavender to Purple 



reticulata, deep blue-purple (very early) 

 pumila, deep purple (very early) 

 verna, violet (early) 

 Purple King, purple(mid-season) 



Queen of May, pale mauve (mid-season) 



Her Majesty, mauve (mid-season) 



Trantlieb, mauve on white (mid-season) 



Mme. Pacquette, deep rosy purple (mid-season) 



squalens, ashen violet (mid-season) 



Black Prince, dark velvety purple (mid-season) 



Othello, blue-lavender and deep purple (mid-season) 



Amas, purple (mid-season) 



foctidissima, purple (late) 



III. Yellows 



Stewart, delicate primrose yellow (very early) 



Gerda, cream yellow (early) 



Queen Flavia, primrose yellow (early) 



flavescens, pale primrose yellow (mid-season) 



variegata, yellow and brown-red (mid-season) 



aurea, deep chrome yellow (mid-season) 



Maori King, bright yellow and brown-crimson (mid-season) 



Mme. Neubert, all yellow (mid-season) 



pseudacorus, deep yellow (late) 



IV. Whites 



The Bride, pure white (very early) 



Hal/dan, cream white (early) 



lngeborg, white (early) 



florentina, gray-white (mid-season) 



Mrs. H. Darwin, white with lavender veining (mid-season) 



Donna Maria, white, tinged lavender (mid-season) 



albicans, pure white (mid-season) 



pseudacorus alba, white (late) 



Snow Queen, white (late) 



La Tendresse, deep cream (late) 



Louise, white, lilac shading (late) 



Flora, white (late) 



Mont Blanc, pure white (late) 



ochroleuca, ivory white, orange marking (late) 



Kaempferi, white, suffused with sky-blue (late) 



V. Various 



susiana, brownish gray with pink cast (early) 



Mme. Chereau, white, "stitched" with blue-lavender (mid-season) 



Thunderbolt, bronze-brown (late) 



A LILY POOL 

 IN A LITTLE GARDEN 



J. B. SPENCER 



[ANY of the beautiful illustrations that have recently 

 appeared in The Garden Magazine lead to the con- 

 clusion that the editor fully appreciates the value of 

 , the Water-lily pond in the home grounds. It would 

 be unfortunate, however, if the conclusion were reached that 

 it is necessary to have extensive grounds in order to have a 

 water garden with all its attendant features. My observation 

 leads me to believe that this mistaken opinion prevails among 

 many amateur gardeners. I have proved in my own garden — 

 containing many varieties of Rose, a perennial border, some 

 good Peonies, an area devoted to vegetables, as well as some 

 shrubs and a lawn — that a suitably sized Water-lily pool adds 

 charm to even a small back yard. 



Each year I try to add at least one new feature to my garden, 

 which has won a number of trophies in city competition. These 

 features have included a Rose arch, a brick walk, a collection 

 of superior Peonies, two or three dozen fine Lilies, and a water 

 garden. All of these have added charm and value to the home, 

 but by far the most interesting has been the Lily pool, which 

 consists of a cement tank 8 feet long and 5 feet wide. From 

 the time this is filled until it is drained in the autumn and the 

 goldfish and Lilies removed indoors, no feature attracts greater 

 interest. The children on the street almost daily ask permis- 

 sion to come in and see the goldfish. Cultivated Water-lilies 

 are new to many people and the varied beautiful tints of these 

 when in bloom excite the utmost interest and admiration. 



THE tank is 22 inches deep and has a drainage pipe 2\ 

 inches in diameter. It is never necessary to change the 

 water during the season because the Lilies and Bulrushes grow- 

 ing within it, together with the rays of the sun, keep the water 

 pure. The goldfish control the animal life, including the larvae 

 of the mosquito. 



The method of constructing the pool is extremely simple. 

 The dimensions decided upon seem to be about right for the 

 garden, which is only 34 feet wide and 60 feet long. The ex- 

 cavation was made 8 inches longer and wider than the finished 

 size, the extra space allowing for a 4-inch cement wall. Care 

 was taken when excavating to keep the sides perpendicular. 

 The soil being of a sandy character, no underdrainage system 

 was necessary. An excavation was made, however, in the 

 bottom, large enough to hold two wheelbarrow loads of stones 

 beneath the floor of the tank. When this space had been 

 filled, a piece of wire fabric used for reinforcing concrete 

 was laid over the stones, and upon that fine wire netting 

 was laid a 2-inch floor of cement concrete. An iron pipe 3 

 inches in diameter, for drainage, was set into the stones, with 

 the upper end projecting 2 inches so as to be level with the floor 

 of the tank. 



The perpendicular walls of earth constituted the outside form 

 for the cement. This was first lined with metal lath. Pegs 

 were driven into the earthen walls and to this the lath was 

 stapled. The inner form is shown on following page. This was 



