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The Garden Magazine, June, 1922 



the needed number of buds and tied in the desired positions and 

 the rest of the vine is cut away. This method saves work and 

 maintains the strength and health of the vines. The following 

 systems are grouped under it. 



Kniffen System for strong varieties that droop is one of the 

 favorite methods of training. Two wires are used. If the 

 two-year cane be f of an inch thick, tie it to the top wire the 

 third spring; then bend it sharply along the wire for three buds, 

 tie again, and cut off. Young shoots will spring out like magic. 

 The following winter or spring save a sturdy cane growing in 

 each direction for each wire and remove all others. Shorten 

 the upper canes to ten buds each and the lower ones to five 

 buds each and. tie them to the wires. From these will grow 

 shoots that will be loaded with fruit the fourth summer. 



If the two-year cane should be but § inch thick, carry it to 

 the bottom wire the third spring; then bend, tie, and prune as 

 you would the f-inch cane at the top wire. The following 

 winter or spring prune to three canes. Train two of these on 

 the lower wire and carry the third to the top one to form the 

 upper part of the trunk, pruning and tying them as in the previ- 

 ous case, and removing all other canes. 



The winter after the four-branched framework has been estab- 

 lished the vine will be a thicket of young canes; yet eight cuts 

 may prune it. Sever each of the four arms beyond the strong 

 cane nearest its base. Prune and tie these four canes as described 

 in the second paragraph above, and give the vine the same treat- 

 ment year after year. There are modified forms of this system. 

 . Chautauqua System. Named for that famous Grape region. 

 The trunk ends in two short 

 horizontal arms at the bottom 

 wire of a two- or three-wire 

 trellis. Imagine from four to 

 six canes trained upwards and 

 outwards each year from these 

 arms like the ribs of a fan, 

 and you have an idea of the 

 Chautauqua System. 



High Renewal System. 

 This involves much more la- 

 bor than the others; but it is 

 required by certain varieties of 

 upright growth, to keep the 

 young shoots from being 

 broken by the wind. The trellis 

 has three wires. The trunk 

 ends at the bottom one in two 

 long horizontal canes from 

 which the young shoots rise. 

 When these reach the middle 

 wire they are tied to it and 

 laterto the top wire also. They 

 are modified forms of this sys- 

 tem. For an arbor six feet 

 wide or more plant the vines 

 about 8 feet apart on both 

 sides. Carry their trunks to 

 the top, train a few short lat- 

 eral canes from each, for the 

 sides and top of the arbor, 

 and renew them each year. 



SPRAY CALENDAR FOR THE GRAPE ARBOR 



I. Spray the vines, wires, and posts thoroughly (with combined fungicide 

 and insecticide) when the buds begin to swell. Purpose — to control 

 black rot and grape flea-beetle. 



II. Spray just before the blossoms open. Purpose — To control black 

 rot, berry moth, and flea-beetle (adult). 



If the leaf hoppers give trouble in your neighborhood, besides the 

 above use one tablespoonful of a nicotine extract and 2 ounces 

 of laundry soap (already dissolved and thoroughly mixed in a 

 small amount of soft water) for every 25 gallons of the spray material 

 at its final dilution. 



If the rose beetle should be troublesome in your neighborhood add 

 to spray II (and also spray III) one ounce of arsenate of lead paste 

 or J ounce of the powder and \ pint of syrup to each gallon of spray 

 material at its final dilution. 



III. Immediately after the blossoms fall use the same materials as in 

 spray 1 1 for the same enemies. This spray is also helpful in control- 

 ling the mildews. 



IV. Two weeks after the fruit sets spray again. Purpose — To control 

 black rot, mildew, flea-beetle (larvae), and grape-root worms. 



If the weather should be hot and damp an additional spray may 

 be needed two weeks after IV. Usually the sprays already 

 given will be sufficient. 



The downy mildew is more readily controlled by thorough dusting 

 with sulphur than by sprays. If it should not have been kept well in 

 check by these, apply flowers of sulphur with a dust gun three 

 times, the first application being four weeks after blooming time and 

 the others at intervals of two weeks. 



WHAT TO USE 



Fungicide: i oz. dry bordeaux to 2J quarts water, or 13 oz. to 5 gallons. 

 Insecticide: 25 oz. arsenate of lead powder, or 5 oz. arsenate of lead 



paste to 5 gal. water. 

 Nicotine extract: as advised above is understood to contain about 40% 



sulphate of nicotine. 

 Proprietary manufactures are offered which answer all practical needs, 



if used as recommended by the makers. 



With the renewal systems the young wood becomes a few 

 inches further from the trunk of the vine each year. Whenever 

 strong canes suitable for use as branches rise from the trunk, 

 train them in the places of branches with old bases and cut out 

 the latter. 



Minimizing Insect Enemies and Diseases 



THE long list of insects and diseases that may attack the 

 Grape is indeed appalling. But, in fact, most of them 

 seldom do much damage, and not many of the more serious 

 ones are likely to be very troublesome the same year. They 

 may nearly always be controlled readily by following the sug- 

 gestions given: 



Destroy all trash near the vines in which insects might hiber- 

 nate and all wild vines and bushes from which insects or diseases 

 might come. Prune away and burn all diseased branches. 

 Cut away at once any branches that seem to be dying, well 

 below where the disease shows, and burn them. If the case 

 should seem to be very bad, remove and burn the entire vine. 



Yields, Endurance, and Variety 



HOW much will a vine yield? There are workers and shirk- 

 ers. A Concord or Worden vine may bear 15 or even 18 

 pounds. But it may take three or four vines of some of our 

 choicest varieties to produce that much. Let the vine bear a 

 little the third year, let it bear from a third of a crop to a full 



crop the fourth year, and full 

 yields after that. 



How long should a vine 

 live? Under neglect it may 

 die the first year. With all 

 conditions favorable it may 

 live for fifty years or even 

 much longer. 



The following varieties 

 ripen approximately in the 

 order given, cover the season 

 well, and succeed over a large 

 portion of the United States 

 and their relative numbers 

 are according to their use and 

 cropping abilities: 



Winchell (Green Mountain), 

 white, 1 vine; Moore Early, 

 black, 1 vine; Brighton, red, 1 

 vine; Worden, black, 2 vines; 

 Delaware, red, 3 vines; Eclipse, 

 black, 1 vine; Concord, black, 

 4 vines ;Niagara, white, 2 vines ; 

 Caco, dark red, 1 vine; Pock- 

 lington, white, 1 vine; Salem, 

 red, 1 vine; Catawba, red, 3 

 vines. In many places a con- 

 siderably different list would 

 be better. Neighbor growers 

 and local nurserymen, state 

 experiment stations, etc., may 

 be consulted. 





