WHEN TO DO WHAT YOU WANT TO DO 



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JULY—PLENTEOUSNESS OF GROWTH AND GLORY 



Herein are listed the seasonal activities for the complete garden. Details of how to do each item may 

 be found in the current or the back issues of The Garden Magazine — it is manifestly impossible to 

 make each number of the magazine a complete manual of practice. References to back numbers may be 

 looked up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request); the Service Department will also 

 be glad to cite references to any special topic if asked by mail and to send personal replies to specific ques- 

 tions; a stamped, addressed envelope being enclosed. 



When referring to the time for outdoor work of any sort New York City (latitude^) at sea level in 

 a normal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the season 

 advances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles from New 

 York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest, about a week 

 earlier. Also allow four days for each degree of latitude, for each five degrees of longitude, and for each 

 four hundred feet of altitude. 



(Copyright, 1922, Doubleday, Page & Co.) 



IHERE is an allurement about midsummer that tempts one to 

 ease up on the care of the garden; whether the thought of 

 approaching vacation-time or the reflex effect of the heat 

 brings this about is of little moment, but there is no doubt 

 that now more than at any other season the gardener needs 

 inspiration and urging to further effort. It would not be out of place 

 to spend a few hours of the "glorious Fourth" in taking stock of what 

 the garden actually offers and ascertaining whether the returns have 

 been worth the effort expended. "The laborer is worthy of his hire." 

 Have you been paid for yours? 



Growing Crops as they Stand 



If a poor return is inevitable from any crop now occupying space, pull 

 or hoe it out and replant. Don't waste time and space, but start 

 a supply of winter vegetables. It is not too late to sow others for 

 fall use. Don't be misled into supposing that late varieties 

 are indispensable because they are for late use. Early varieties 

 are an advantage in many localities as they mature before frost. 



Late Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kale, Brussels Sprouts and Celery to be set 

 into permanent quarters this month. The earlier the better. 



Tomatoes on stakes to be tied, and side shoots pinched out frequently. 

 The foliage to be thinned if it is shading the fruit. 



Melon and Squash vines to be kept off the ground by laying brush for 

 them to climb over. Small boards or pots placed under Melons 

 will cause them to ripen more evenly than they do when left on 

 the ground and will prevent the flat, bleached-out side often seen. 



Potatoes to be sprayed twice this month or oftener if the weather be 

 wet. Plant Turnips where early Potatoes have been dug. 



Rhubarb, Sea-kale, and Asparagus to be well fed by top-dressing of well 

 rotted manure, or fertilizer, preferably both if available. Culti- 

 vate thoroughly and keep clear of all weeds. Next year's yield is 

 proportionate to the feeding taken in now. 



Spray regularly with bordeaux: Muskmelons, Cucumbers, Pumpkins, 

 and Squashes. 



Onions and Leeks to be fed with liquid manure or nitrate of soda. 



Vegetable Seeds for Succession 



Beans to be planted for succession. Get the average date for the first 

 killing frost in your locality and figure the last sowing according to 

 that. Red Valentine will mature in 55 days, if the frost does not 

 kill it before the last week in September. Sowings made up to 

 last week in July will yield the bulk of the crop before being nipped. 



Last chance to sow long season Beets, such as Long Smooth Blood for 

 winter use, is the first week of this month. After that (up to the 

 20th of the month) early maturing varieties such as Detroit Dark 

 Red, Crosby Egyptian, Crimson Globe. 



Carrots for the winter crop to be sown by the 1 5th of the month. 



Last call for Corn planting July 4th, using such early varieties as Peep 

 o'Day, Mayflower, Golden Bantam. 



Early white Endive sown the first week of the month will be ready to 

 blanch in early September. 



Kohlrabi to be sown for succession; matures in sixty days. 



Heat resisting sorts of Lettuce, as All Seasons Butterhead, Iceberg, to 

 be sown up to the middle of the month. During the last of the 

 month use Tender Heart, Black-Seeded Tennis Ball, and Big 

 Boston types. 



Radishes for succession to be sown. Sow White Strasburg, and Black 

 Spanish for winter use up to the 15th. 



Peas for a fall crop will not give a spring crop return, so use heavy 

 bearing, quick maturing sorts; i. e. Sutton's Excelsior, Little 

 Marvel, Alaska, and Thomas Laxton. 



Rutabagas for winter use to be sown as early as possible, and succession 

 crops of Turnips up to 20th. Purple-Top, Strap-Leaf, Amber- 

 Leaf, and White Globe to be sown for late fall use. 



Late Cucumbers for pickling are possibilities if sown at once and given 

 good care. Liquid manure will help. 



Where the Fruit Is Promising 



Summer pruning is the month's big job which really assists the trees in 

 setting up fruit buds. Go over all trees of fruiting size, and nip 

 off all thin, weak interior growth, also take off the ends of any 

 heavy shoots with a tendency to get ahead of others. 



Cane fruits to be pruned thoroughly after fruiting; cut away old wood 

 that has borne fruit; leaving new growths to fill the rows without 

 crowding. 



Currants and Gooseberries neglected during the fall or spring pruning, 

 to have some of the old wood cut out now to give room for new 

 growth. 



Rub off surplus growths that may have started on Grape vines where 

 not wanted. 



When the Strawberry crop is gathered, remove weeds, litter, and super- 

 flous runners and lightly fork over the surface of the soil. Re- 

 plant part of the patch each year to maintain succession. 



Thin crop of heavy-bearing fruits, especially Apples and Pears. Re- 

 duce clusters to a single fruit, and in the case of Apple let fruit 

 hang 10-12 inches apart all over the tree. 



Cover crops in the orchard to be plowed under. A cutaway disk 

 harrow, or a chain on the plow are worth considering in this 

 connection. 



Where the Flowers Are Growing 



Do not stir the soil deeply when cultivating; many plants are shallow 



rooted. Cut off flower heads when bloom fades, unless saving 



seed. 

 Note down the names and quantities of any plants needed to fill gaps 



and order potted plants to fill now or in fall. 

 The biennial Campanula, Foxglove, and other plants of this nature to 



be torn out and thrown away after flowering. Foxglove seedlings. 



will spring up and may be kept for next year's flowering. 

 Annuals to give late summer bloom by sowing now include Mignon- 

 ette, Candytuft, Phlox Drummondii, Coreopsis, Gypsophila, and 



Cornflower. 

 Continuously flowering plants (Coreopsis, Gypsophila, and Perennial 



Peas) to have the flowers picked clean in order to have them flower 



right along. Mulching is preferable to watering (especially on the 



"little and often" plan) for these and fall-flowering perennials. 

 When watering, give water until the soil is saturated through and 



through, and then give still more. Mulch to go on after that. 

 If Phloxes show signs of red spider or mildew, use a strong force of 



water from the hose for red spider, and sulphide of potassium 



(1 oz. to a gallon of water) for mildew. 

 Move Tall Bearded (German) and Japanese Iris, even Peonies etc., 



after flowering and make any desired changes of arrangement. 

 Nasturtiums, and other soft succulent plants soon suffer from the 



attacks of aphis and are to be sprayed frequently with tobacco or 



suitable preparations. 



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