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AUGUST— GOOD-BY SUMMER, HELLO FALL! 



Herein are listed the seasonal activities for the complete garden. Details of bow to do each item may 

 be found in the current or the back issues of The Garden Magazine — it is manifestly impossible to 

 make each number of the magazine a complete manual of practice. References to back numbers may be 

 looked up in the index to each completed volume (sent gratis on request); the Service Department will also 

 be glad to cite references to any special topic if asked by mail and to send personal replies to specific ques- 

 tions; a stamped, addressed envelope being enclosed. 



When referring to the time for outdoor work of any sort New York City (latitude 40) at sea level in 

 a normal season is taken as standard; but at best dates can only be approximate. Roughly, the season 

 advances northward fifteen miles a day. Thus Albany, which is one hundred and fifty miles; from New 

 York, would be about ten days later, and Philadelphia, which is ninety miles southwest, about a week 

 earlier. Also allow four days for each degree of latitude, for each five degrees of longitude, and for each 

 four hundred feet of altitude. 



(Copyright, 1022, Doubleday, Page & Co.) 



'ESPITE the lazy days of August which incline him to vacation 

 mood, the gardener is already turning with zestful purpose 

 toward the fall. Well he knows that the next two or three 

 months offer abundant opportunity to do all sorts of perma- 

 nent planting — trees, shrubs, bulbs etc. — and that once these 



things are in, winter works as his ally and spring finds him well ahead 



of the game with leisure for the niceties that stamp the individual 



garden and lift it out of the commonplace. 



Routine details are now so thoroughly in hand that watering and 



weeding are done almost automatically as needed, leaving the mind 



free to plan and plant for future effects. 



Time to move evergreens; also certain herbaceous plants, such as Iris, 

 Oriental Poppy, Madonna Lilies — even Peonies. 



Keep flowerbeds neat and tidy by gathering seed-pods as they form. 



Window boxes, hanging baskets, vases, etc. will be benefited by top- 

 dressing with good loam and commercial fertilizer. 



Red spider on the evergreens makes them look "rusty." Standard 

 spraying preparations (solution or dust) are effective, and don't 

 overlook the effectiveness of water applied under pressure through 

 the hose. 



Lawn Making 



Lawns may be top-dressed with bonemeal or wood ashes, or both. Apply 

 on a wet day ; or just before rain, if possible. Weedy growth will be 

 practically terminated for the season and this is a good time for 

 any renovating or making new lawns. The one drawback to 

 August sowing is drought. It is no use trying to get seed to 

 germinate by watering — the weather conditions must be right. 



The Roses 



Climbing Roses and Vines to be looked over and tied to trellis or 

 trained into position; and do not allow them to suffer for want of 

 water; bonemeal worked around them will show results next year. 



Rose beds to be cultivated and watered to prepare for the fall bloom. 

 If orange rust proves troublesome, pick off affected leaves and 

 burn them. Spray with a copper preparation and give general 

 good care. If the disease reappears year after year, remake 

 the beds with fresh plants, which may be done in November. 



Cuttings taken from firm growths and put into gritty soil in frames will 

 root well. Growths that have just borne flowers are best. Cut 

 •into lengths six inches long, retaining the leaves on the upper half; 

 insert in frames two inches apart both ways. 



Bulbs and Flower Seeds for Next Year 



Bulb orders to be placed and preparations made for planting. Early 

 ordering ensures getting just what is needed. Bulbs need good 

 soil in well dug beds. Poor condition gives poor results. For 

 showy beds for display purposes, use Hyacinths, Tulips, and 

 Narcissus; for naturalizing, Narcissus, Crocus, Lily-of-the-valley, 

 Trilliums. For cut flowers, Darwin Tulips, various Narcissus, 

 and all the hardy Lilies; and don't forget the Regal Lily — it's 

 hardy, grows on average soils, dislikes heavy feeding, and flowers 

 freely in June. 



Seeds of perennials may still be sown; and if saving your own, sow as 

 soon as available, the earlier the better. Best to sow in coldframe 

 where protection may be given during germination. 



Sow Pansies, English Daisies, Forget-me-nots, Canterbury-bells, etc. 



In the Fruit Garden 



Strawberries, bigger and better than ever before, by getting the new 

 bed planted early! Pot -grown plants give best results, though 

 they do cost a little more. Runners from the old bed may be 

 taken up and planted with satisfactory results, and better still if 

 they were pegged down into pots last month. Give good soil; 

 use plenty of manure and fertilizer. There will be no visible 

 immediate returns; but, next June — ah! A mixture of dried 

 blood, or guano and fine bonemeal, with two to four parts humus 

 may be worked into the hills. Keep the ground hoed and run- 

 ners pinched off. 



Summer pruning of fruit trees to be continued during the early part of 

 the month — thin fruit as circumstances warrant. Better less 

 quantity and greater quality of Peaches, Plums, Apples, Pears, or 

 Grapes. Get up your nerve, sharpen your knife, and thin half the 

 set! It's hard to do it, but it actually pays. 



Cut away old Raspberry and Blackberry canes that have fruited and 

 thin out the new shoots to three or four to each hill or plant. 

 Tied to stakes and topped when four or five feet high, they will 

 make strong canes for fruiting next year. 



Gooseberries and Currants to be layered; or take cuttings six to eight 

 inches long, planting up to the terminal bud. 



Continue to spray for brown rot on Plums and Peaches. 



In the Vegetable Garden 



Hoe all crops and keep down weeds. Herbs in flower to be cut and 

 dried in shady place for winter use. 



Onions to be harvested when tops turn yellow and fall down. Best 

 dried by placing them in a dry shed in thin layers or on boards in 

 a coldframe with the sash elevated above them to keep off rain. 



Rutabagas sown last month to be thinned. 



Sow up to end of month the various soft varieties of Turnip, such as 

 Strap Leaf, White Globe, etc. 



Last sowing of String Beans to be made by middle of month, using an 

 early maturing variety. Several short rows planted close together 

 may be protected from frost readily. 



Lettuce sown now will afford a salad until late in the fall if protected 

 from early frosts. 



Spinach to be sown in succession for this year, also for wintering over 

 outdoors; and Shallots. 



Celery still to be planted and early varieties to be blanched; also plant 

 Cardoons. Beets and Carrots to be sown for winter use. Tom- 

 atoes to be kept well tied and disbudded. Dig Potatoes as ready. 



Artichokes to be sown for next year's supply if there is a coldframe in 

 which to winter them. They do best in pots and should be in the 

 six-inch size by the time it is necessary to give frames protection. 



Late Cabbage to be well watered to prevent club-root. Spray with 

 arsenate of lead (absolutely no danger, if done early before the 

 head forms) to check cabbage worm. 



Chinese Petsai (Chinese Cabbage, or Chinese Lettuce) to be sown for 

 fall use as salad or as greens. It is as easily grown as Lettuce 

 and matures in from 80 to 90 days. 



Melons leaving the stem when thoroughly matured are over ripe at the 

 flower end. Pick fruit at first sign of separation from the stem; 

 place in high temperature for several hours (greenhouse or frame) 

 turning once or twice. The flesh will ripen evenly to the outer 

 rind giving practically no waste. Put the ripened fruit on cellar 

 floor to cool, then chill with ice. 



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