The Garden Magazine, August, 1922 



357 



light sandy soil that is well supplied with moisture and humus 

 and reasonably well fertilized. In the South, a somewhat 

 cooler soil is congenial, and many of the Georgia Peach orchards 

 are on heavy red clay loams. 



The Peach blooms from ten to twenty days ahead of the 

 Apple; so good air drainage is important. 



The soil should be moderately fertile, but not over rich in 

 nitrogen. This condition would encourage a late, sappy 

 growth, likely to winter-kill. Avoid the use of manure, except 

 on thin soils, and on these do not apply more than 60 lbs. per 

 square rod. 



If the young trees make 2 or 3 ft. of growth and have dark 

 green foliage, no fertilizer need be applied for the first three 

 years. A complete fertilizer carrying about 3% of nitrogen, 8% 

 of phosphoric acid, and 5% of potash, worked in early in spring 

 with the cover crop of the previous year, is a good one for the 

 average bearing orchard. From 4 to 7 lbs. per tree in full bear- 

 ing is a fair application. 



Planting Season to Fit Locality 



IS IT safe to plant Peach trees in autumn? Yes, both safe and 

 satisfactory, where winter temperatures do not fall much be- 

 low zero and the soil is fairly firm; but the newly set trees should 

 not be pruned until spring. Elsewhere, plant only in spring. 

 Planting distances vary greatly in different sections. In the 

 northern districts, where the trees are comparatively dwarf 

 and short-lived, they may be planted 15 x 15ft. or, even closer; 

 from New Jersey southward, the distance may be 18 x 18 to 

 20 x 20 ft.; and even more room is preferable for such vigorous, 

 spreading varieties as Elberta. 



Pruning and General Care in Growth 



NEVER plant Peach trees more than a year old. Stocky 

 specimens, 3 to 5 feet tall, are preferable to the very large 

 or undersized ones. These may have several strong branches, 

 or they may have a few weak ones and some strong buds. If 

 the branches be strong, remove entirely those that are not 

 needed; but save and cut back several vigorous, well-placed 

 shoots to one bud each. Choose from three to five shoots grow- 

 ing from these the following spring for framework branches. 

 If the branches of the one-year tree be weak, remove them 

 all and cut off the trunk at a suitable height, immediately 

 above several strong buds. These will produce shoots from 

 which the framework branches may be selected the second 

 spring. 



The trunk should branch fairly low, but the base of the lowest 

 framework branch should not be less than 18 inches high. The 

 framework of the Peach tree splits easily. This danger may 

 be avoided by setting large screw eyes deeply in the inner sides 

 of the framework branches, well up from their bases, and join- 

 ing them with No. 10 or 11 galvanized wire, so that each is 

 braced by the others. 



The Peach tree demands more abundant sunlight and re- 

 quires more severe pruning and a more open top than any of 

 our other common fruit trees. When the time can be spared, 

 it is a good practice to shorten back the vigorous one-year 

 shoots a third of their length. This encourages each year 

 a vigorous growth of the wood that is to bear fruit the following 

 year. 



Those varieties that tend to grow too tall should be trained 

 to a more spreading form, by the methods described for the 

 Apple in The Garden Magazine for July. 



You have, doubtless, noticed how the branches of old Peach 

 trees run out like long poles, bare (save for dead twigs) except 

 near the ends. When this tendency shows itself, each year 

 cut back a framework branch or two to a point where a young 

 shoot or strong bud rises from it. This can be developed into 

 a new main branch; and, in this way, the entire top may be re- 

 newed in three or four years, without missing a crop. This is 

 much better than cutting back the entire top at once, as is 

 commonly done. 



In severe climates, do not prune before mid-March. In 

 reasonably mild ones, pruning may safely be done in autumn, 

 winter, or spring. 



Kinds to Grow and Crops to Expect 



C s IVE the Peach trees clean cultivation until midsummer; 

 I then sow a cover crop, to be worked into the soil the 

 following spring. 



Peach trees bear younger than our other common fruit trees. 

 Don't let them bear more than a few fruits the second year. 

 They may safely yield from a peck to half a bushel the third 

 year, and a bushel or more the fourth year. Occasionally, a 

 Peach tree may yield eight bushels in the North; but three 

 bushels per tree in full bearing is a good average. 



In the New England peach growing sections, a tree is ex- 

 pected to yield about three good crops. In New Jersey or 

 Delaware, with good care, an orchard may last from ten to 

 fifteen years, and individual trees frequently live much longer. 

 Farther south, Peach trees are still longer lived. 



Though the choice of varieties is, to a considerable extent, 

 dependent upon local conditions, a given variety of Peach suc- 

 ceeds well over a much larger area than does a variety of Apple. 

 The Elberta, the banner Peach of Georgia, for example, is also 

 the leader in New York and California; and more than half of 

 the Peach trees in America are of this variety. Carman, and 

 Belle of Georgia are equally conspicuous in their seasons both 

 North and South. 



About the earliest really good Peach is the Greensboro — a 

 white-fleshed semi-cling, which ripens about the end of July or 

 the first of August at New York City. Following it, approxi- 

 mately, in the order of ripening, is a brief suggestive list which 

 would be improved for some sections by considerable changes: 



Carman; white-fleshed, semi-cling. 



Hiley; white-fleshed, free. 



Belle of Georgia; white-fleshed, free. 



Champion; white-fleshed, free or nearly so. 



Elberta; yellow-fleshed, free. 



Late Crawford; yellow-fleshed, free, not regularly productive. 



Fox; white-fleshed, free. 



Smock; yellow-fleshed, free. 



Krummel; yellow-fleshed, free, ripening a little before mid 

 October at New York City. 



Troubles That Sometimes Worry 



LIKE the Apple, the Peach has an array of enemies; but, 

 / with persistence and modern science, they may be con- 

 trolled. 



Perhaps the most serious single enemy has been the borer, 

 which feeds upon the cambium at or below the surface of the 

 ground. The only sure remedy until recently has been to re- 

 move with a knife, in autumn or spring. Now, however, a 

 preparation with an odor somewhat resembling that of moth 

 balls and bearing the formidable name paradichlorobenzene 

 (sometimes shortened to parazene) may be used effectively 

 upon trees six years of age or older. In its use the instructions 

 of the bulletins must be followed carefully or harm may be 

 done. (See also Garden MaGAz in e for October 192 1, page 83.) 



The "yellows" disease has taken its toll. The first indication 

 is usually a sickly appearance. Then clusters of slender shoots 

 crowded with very narrow leaves appear, particularly on the 

 main branches. This is a sure sign of the disease. The fruit 

 is small, poorly flavored and premature, and it is sometimes 

 marked with reddish blotches. The disease may be controlled 

 by promptly taking out and burning the affected trees. If 

 the hole be well sprinkled with lime and left open during the 

 winter, another tree may be planted in the same place the next 

 spring. 



The other insect enemies and diseases are less serious and 

 directions for their control are given in government bulletins 

 and the literature of companies that supply spray material 

 and equipment. 



