18 
This was the actual expense, itemized: 
i2 sash 36 x 42 in., g lights each, at $.06 a light $6.48 
4 boxes glass 10x 15 in. (used only three) at $2 8.00 
r5olin. ft. 2x2 rabbited out $ in. for glass at 
Som line kta cs tecoqasratierseneersleletsas ietaiaeters BETS 
HG fENEG Goootoosodba00U bo CoG UebuASOa00 1.50 
4 sash for ventilators each 3 lights 10x 14 in. 2.00 
Gaststovencmemrtteeteieeeteeisinieerreecletciectetel toler 4.00 
Piping gas from house and material............ 8.50 
Material and work on house by contractor...... 25.00 
Power’s regulator and valve................-. 15.00 
Connecting) srepulatonacenccerre eee eee 3-00 
$77-23 
The cost of building the house alone, 
where material and labor are about the same 
asin Western New York, would beas follows: 
30 pes. 2X2 in. 5-ft. rabbited % in. for glass at 
Say Ite Mis HOE KOBisk sodanonedscesoagooo $3.75 
35 pes. 2 in. 4-ft. rabbited $ in. for glass at 
iSOnpy Iie, We HOF SIGIES 5 oqocscacescaanac 3-50 
2pes.2X2in. 13-ft.rabbited } in. for glass at 
SSaopy, lbh Hin Moe wGlYS soocandcnscnance 65 
4 sash, 3 lights each, 10 x 14 in. for ventilator... 2.00 
4 boxes glass 10x15 in. at $2.25............. 9.00 
18 pcs. 2X 4 in x 6ft. studding.....81 
4 pes.2X 4in. X13 ft. side plates. .37 
4pes.2X4in.x g ft. end plates. .28 
4 pes. 2X4 in. x 12 ft bracing... .36 
4pes. IX12 in. x 12ft. inside 
boardin pase t eee eee 96 
278 at $25.coper M.7.00 
100 bd. ft. matched flooring for outside.......... 3.50 
Gollinepitesnext Onn Ou Conn cane eee eee os 
60 lin. ft. molding for cornice.............-.-.. 5 
ih fyall [MILES soo soeQasoooosdcuduyo none aasDade 1.50 
6 days’ labor at $2, EON fs atatehe Mestese ene wot ee 15.00 
Weplls, lames, Weeks Bie. copcccadooanavesudsonge 1.50 
D TiPaiin [SNEWS ZI) ICH NS Go co dacccowsascssa0n0G 
4 pes. I X I12in. x 12 ft. = 48 ft. 
7 pes. 1 x 6 in. x 12 ft. = 42 ft. 
20 pes. 2¥4in. X 3 ft. — 45 ft. 
20 pes. 2K4iM. ¥ 30 in. = 45 ft. 
140 ft. at $25 per M.... 2.60 
$51.50 
To hold up my benches, I used five 2 x 4 
ft. frames under each bench made like an 
inverted A, thus giving a 2-inch air space 
between the bench and side. wall which 
keeps the house from rotting even though 
the bench may do so. 
THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
Alfalfa in Eastern New York 
By W. H. Jenkins, New York 
Veen fed correctly, alfalfa is, in my 
opinion, the best soiling crop that 
can be grown, and I know of no other that 
will produce as much milk and as cheaply. 
Horses kept in a stable in summer will 
eat it green, keeping in good strength and 
flesh, with considerably less grain than if 
fed with timothy hay; hens will also eat it 
cut in short lengths as readily as grain, and 
in this case it is far more economical. It 
has been my experience that better results 
were obtained when alfalfa formed a part 
of the hen’s daily ration. 
If alfalfa is to be fed green, it must not be 
cut when the dew or rain isonit. Cut ona 
bright, sunny day, spread it out, and late 
in the afternoon heap it up in small mounds, 
covering with muslin hay caps. Allow it 
to remain for two or three days, when it 
will be wilted. Feed dry and in not too 
large quantities. If cut when it is wet and 
fed in that condition, alfalfa will very often 
cause trouble. 
Those who desire to feed 
For green feed cut alfalfa on a bright day and when 
there is no dew on it 
alfalfa so as to save money and at the same 
time get the most satisfactory results should 
use a ration of alfalfa combined with other 
foods. Be sure that the ration does not 
Vegetables all winter and plants ready for setting out in early spring are raised in the home made 
greenhouse, heated by natural gas 
AuGcustT, 1908 
The blue fiowers of alfalfa are really quite as pretty 
as some garden plants 
contain too much protein; a ton of alfalfa 
hay contains as much protein as a ton of 
wheat bran. 
On the alfalfa lands in the West and the 
lime-stone soils of Onondaga County, New 
York, there is no question regarding the 
success of the crop; but on the long cultivated 
seils in the dairy regions of Eastern New 
York and New England, where the land has 
become seeded to weeds, is acid, and in poor 
mechanical condition; or where there is a 
clay subsoil and imperfect drainage, it is 
doubtful whether alfalfa can be successfully 
grown. ‘To determine what the soil requires 
grow corn or some other cultivated crop on 
it for a year or two and carefully observe the 
growth. For the best results with alfalfa 
the soil must be thoroughly tilled, cleaned, 
rightly fertilized, and, if it needs it, drained; 
and it might also be necessary to sweeten 
it with lime or ashes. I always use stable 
manure and wood ashes. 
About seven years ago I first attempted 
growing alfalfa on a piece of land that for 
several years had been used for gardening. 
The soil was a well-drained, heavy, clay loam 
on a gravel subsoil. In the spring, as soon 
as the ground could be worked, I plowed 
deeply and harrowed with a spring-tooth 
harrow, special pains being taken to make 
a level seed-bed of very fine soil. The land 
was mowed several times during the summer 
to keep down the weeds. 
Seed was sown at the rate of thirty pounds 
to the acre and was rolled. The alfalfa 
grew so rapidly the first summer that the 
yield was between two and three tons to the 
acre. The last cutting in October was left 
on the ground for a mulch, and the land was 
top dressed with ashes or lime. 
