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THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
NovEmMBER 1908. 
THE AUTHOR THAT THE 
WHOLE WORLD LOVES 
DICKENS 
DICKENS 
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ADDRESS 
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MOVING YEWS 
S. H., New York.— There is really no very big problem 
offered in the planting of yews. Some enormous specimens 
have been moved — those at Columbia University for 
instance. The sun should not hurt them, and as they do 
not make a very big root system, the trees ought to succeed 
if surrounded by merely a few inches of soil. Very old 
yews have often been seen growing directly in the pavement. 
HOOF CLIPPINGS AS A FERTILIZER 
G. C. J., New York.— If hoof clippings are mixed with 
horse manure in any great quantity, do not take the trouble 
to haul it. If the horse manure is in excess, use the mixture 
simply for its manure value and i ignore the presence of the 
clippings. Hoof clippings contain nitrogen, but yield it 
so slowly as not to be in any way comparable to the other 
nitrogen-bearing manures. Hoof clippmgs make such a 
low grade manure that many states absolutely prohibit 
their use in commercial fertilizers. No benefit would be 
derived from mixing wood ashes with the clippings as 
the ashes would not have the power to unlock the nitrogen 
in the clippings; therefore, you have only to consider the 
use of the horse manure and ashes alone or in 
combination. 
KEEPING ARTICHOKES OVER WINTER 
E. G. A., New Jersey.— Notwithstanding the fact that 
artichoke plants look well after several heavy frosts, they 
are not really hardy, although it is true that they stand a 
good deal ot freezing. They are also hard to protect 
because they rot easily. Do not pot the plants but tie 
together the leaves of each plant separately and give pro- 
tection against the frost by means of salt hay, leaves, or 
something of that sort. During the mild, wet weather, th 
plants must be opened up to prevent them from decaying 
at the crown. But they must be covered up again as soon 
as they dry out. A new and different method of wintering 
which is not yet in general practice is to cut off all the tops 
and cover the crown with an 18-inch pot, inverted. This 
must be covered later with leaves or salt hay. 
A COLD GRAPERY BORDER 
A. A. M., Nova Scotia.— Undoubtedly the soil in 
the border of the cold grapery needs renewing. This 
may be partially done by removing the soil down to the 
roots and replacing it with new soil, but a better way will 
be to entirely renew the soil. To do this the grapes must 
be ripened early (July) and then all the soil in the border 
removed and replaced by a good compost. Great care 
must be exercised not to injure the roots and as soon as 
they are laid bare cover with damp cloths until the new 
soil is put about them. If you do this by the end of July 
the roots will be able to take hold of the new soil and com- 
plete their growth before the end of the season. If the 
work is done at any other time of year, one season must 
pass without a crop. During the time that the roots are 
out of the soil the vine must be shaded and the atmosphere 
of the house completely saturated with moisture. Fre- 
quent syringing and a humid atmosphere must be main- 
tained until the plants are established in the new soil which 
will take almost a month. The best soil for a border is 
well rotted sod taken from an old pasture. Chop sods into 
small pieces and to each five or six cubic yards add one 
yard of broken lime, rubbish (old plaster or mortar), some 
charcoal, wood ashes and about two hundred pounds of 
dried bones which have been broken up“into pieces about 
one-half inch in diameter. “This compost must be varied 
according to the soil; if light and sandy, less lime rubbish 
will be needed. On the other hand, a stiff heavy clay will 
need more. 
