NovemMBER, 1908 
hak GARDEN MAGAZINE 
Three other methods of protecting evergreens. 
Ivy can be burlapped where it stands. 
Young conifers can be wrapped with straw over a framework of poles. 
Or you can stand cut pines on the south side of plants that are to be sheltered from winter winds and sunshine 
about six inches of rough stable litter or 
leaves. 
In covering anything with leaves or litter 
to break the force of the frost, bear in mind 
the necessity of keeping the mulch loose 
at all times. If it mats down, loosen it with 
a fork during mild weather. 
This plan has enabled me to winter such 
tender plants as,the Marechal Niel rose and 
the Indian jessamine (Jasminum officinale) 
and flower them successfully out-of-doors. 
Barrels are often used to protect tender 
shrubs, especially tea roses. Knock out 
the heads, place the barrel over the shrub 
and fill with dirt or leaves, covering the top 
with tar paper to keep out the water. This 
method is very good for tender hydrangeas, 
but it cannot be used for taller shrubs. 
Another method I have tried with the 
tender varieties of the tea rose, is to lift 
them and winter them in a deep coldframe, 
covering the frame with boards and litter; 
but my experience has been that the shock 
of transplanting every season is to be avoided 
more than the killing back of the plants 
which will be slight if they are properly 
buried. 
Strawing is satisfactory for the hardier 
hybrid roses, if your garden is not troubled 
by mice or rabbits. 
Another good plan is to tie the stems 
together and cover them half way with dirt 
and then, after several good frosts, wrap the 
remainder in straw. This plan gives the 
mice and rabbits an opportunity to find 
winter quarters elsewhere before they find 
you so accommodating as to build them 
nice straw houses. 
This reminds me of a friend who had 
invested in a lot of new roses, such as Kil- 
larney and Frau Karl Druschki and desiring 
to give them every chance, he planned 
extra good winter protection. The plants 
were half buried and the remainder strawed 
at my suggestion and I thought that quite 
enough; but after frost came the entire 
bed was covered with about two feet of 
meadow hay. Well, if you could have seen 
those roses when they were uncovered in 
spring! I don’t believe there was a square 
inch of bark left on any one plant. So 
you see that this thing can be overdone as 
well as neglected. 
In positions exposed to strong winter 
winds it may be necessary to put pine 
boughs around certain deciduous trees and 
shrubs, especially magnolias, azaleas, 
cotoneasters and the groundsel tree (Bac- 
charis halimifolia). 
The so-called Catalpa Bungei, which is 
such a conspicuous cheap substitute for 
bay trees in formal gardens, needs mulching 
at the roots and the head should be wrapped 
in burlap. 
PERENNIAL FLOWERS 
In November, after all growth in the 
garden has ceased and the stems of all 
perennials are dried out, they should be cut 
off and burned. See that all the labels are 
in condition for the winter and replace any 
that have rotted. Then spade under about 
four inches of good manure. This will 
leave the ground in a good loose condition 
for the winter. Most people leave spading 
until the spring but that is a mistake. By 
doing this work in the fall you avoid the 
spring rush which is reason enough. More- 
over, perennials start to root much earlier 
Before protecting. Choice evergreens in front of a 
summer home on Long Island 
in spring than most plants and the manure 
is then ready for them. 
Next cover the bed or border of perennials 
with five or six inches of rough stable 
manure, but not until a crust has frozen on 
the ground. This will be quite enough 
protection for the general run of hardy 
perennials. 
Torch lilies (Kniphofia or Tritoma), 
giant lilies (Eremerus), ncarvillea Delavayi, 
Romneya Coulteri, and other perennials that 
are not quite hardy, suffer mostly from 
excessive moisture in winter. 
Some gardeners lift these plants, store 
them over winter and replant in spring, but 
I believe you can get better results if you 
will take packing cases, fill them with leaves 
and invert them over the plants. If the 
bottom of a case is not tight, cover it with 
tar paper, for if the water gets in it will 
keep the leaves soaked all winter and the 
damage will be greater than if you gave no 
protection at all. 
Another good protection for the peren- 
nial garden is a good covering with pine 
boughs or hemlock branches, but I like best 
covering it with leaves. A poulty wire 
fence about eighteen inches high can be 
placed around a bed of hardy flowers and the 
bed piled with leaves. This makes an 
After protecting with cut pines, which can be had 
here for little or nothing 
