Gladiolus corms. 
How to Lift, Cure and Store Summer Bulbs—By William Scott, 72" 
UNLESS YOU KNOW AND PRACTICE THESE DIRECTIONS, YOUR CANNAS, DAHLIAS, GLADIOLI, 
TUBEROSES, MONTBRETIAS AND TUBEROUS BEGONIAS WILL ROT OR SHRIVEL THIS WINTER 
EFORE the frost comes and while the 
flowers are at their best go over the 
labels carefully to make sure that they are 
correct, and renew any labels that are 
indistinct, broken or decayed. Remember 
that in the case of summer bulbs you cannot 
depend upon a planting plan, and the labels 
are the only guide for future planting. 
‘Take notes of the color and height so that 
you can arrange them better next year. 
DAHLUIAS 
A frost strong enough to spoil the foliage 
and flowers will not injure the roots. How- 
ever, no time should be lost in getting them 
up and stored after the foliage is killed, as 
the next frost may be strong enough to do 
irreparable damage. 
Cut the stems to within about three 
inches of the roots. Use a strong sharp 
knife so as to make a straight, clean cut. 
Attach the labels firmly to the stems with 
cord or fine wire. Before attempting to 
Husk on at right; all off in 
centre; partially removed at left 
lift a clump loosen the soil well all around 
the roots, and then work the spade as far 
under the roots as possible. Then press 
the handle of the spade downward, and 
the roots will be raised well out of the ground 
without any serious breakage. A careless 
workman will try to pull up the roots by the 
stem when the soil is only half loosened, and 
many of the larger divisions of the tuber are 
thus broken off just where they adhere to 
the stem, or at the only point where they can 
make a growth next season. 
Work the soil from the roots with the 
hands, but do not shake the clumps roughly. 
It is not necessary to remove all the soil, as 
the rest will fall off later when dry. 
Water will accumulate in the soft, hollow 
stems if they stand erect. Lay the roots so 
that water will have a chance to drain off; 
otherwise, crown rot may develop. 
The best place for curing roots is a cool, 
dry shed. Lay the roots on boards or 
benches and turn them occasionally so that 
they will dry out evenly. After about a 
week’s drying they can be removed to their 
winter quarters. 
The best place to winter them is a frost- 
proof cellar. The remaining soil, being 
now dry, can be shaken off. Unless the 
cellar is very dry and has a board floor it 
is well to have the boards on which the 
roots are laid raised above the floor so as 
to allow a current of air to pass under and 
prevent damping. If you must use a 
rather damp cellar, a sprinkling of air- 
slaked lime under the boards will help to 
keep the air sweet and prevent damp. The 
best temperature is about 4o degrees. Cover 
slightly with fine dry sand. 
CANNAS 
Unlike dahlias these need little or no 
‘curing, but can be lifted and stored at once. 
When lifting cut the stems off short. The 
roots keep best if left with their natural 
covering of soil. We lift the clumps with 
as much soil adhering as possible and set 
them close together in the same cellar where 
we store dahlias, but put them in the warm 
end of the cellar. 
For the method of raising them from the 
ground and for the use of air-slaked lime, 
see directions for dahlias. Each variety 
should be distinctly labeled and carefully 
kept by itself, using boards as a division 
between the kinds. 
TUBEROUS BEGONIAS 
Unlike the foregoing subjects, the stems 
of these should not be cut but the plants 
lifted intact. The ideal place for drying 
these is part of a greenhouse bench. Lack- 
ing this you can utilize a frame to advantage. 
The bottom of the frame should be covered 
with boards and the plants laid on these in 
rows with the roots facing the sun. Place 
them so that the top of each row will lie 
free and not overlap any other. Turn them 
every day for a few days so that they will 
dry out evenly; then occasionally, for about 
two weeks in all. By this time the stems 
will be sufficiently dried so that they will 
part readily from the bulbs. During the 
operation the frame should be covered with 
a sash, but this should be raised both at top 
and bottom during the day to admit of free 
circulation of air. At night a little top 
ventilation should be given to prevent 
condensation. 
When the bulbs are thoroughly dry they 
can be put in boxes and stored in any dry 
place where the temperature will not fall 
below 40 degrees. These bulbs are rather 
tender and should by all means be kept from 
frost during winter. Also they should be 
lifted after the first light frost. We always 
make it a point to lift the begonias first. 
GLADIOLI 
These, like begonias, should be lifted 
with the stems attached, but there is not so 
much trouble in drying them. ‘The earlier 
planted lots generally have the stems pretty 
well dried before the advent of frost, but 
even if green they can be lifted and tied 
in bundles and hung up (bulbs downward) 
from the roof of a shed or barn, or in any 
175 
light, airy place where they will not be frozen. 
When thoroughly dry the bulbs can be 
removed from the stems and stored as 
recommended for begonias. However, they 
must not be placed where they will be 
affected by the heat from any stove or heat- 
ing pipes. If the air be too dry the bulbs 
will shrivel before planting time and lose 
much of their vitality. 
MONTBRETIAS 
These require treatment similar to the 
gladioli as regards lifting, drying and storing. 
Some gardeners claim that they will stand 
the winter in the ground if well mulched, 
but our experience is that it is safer to lift 
them in the colder sections of the country. 
TUBEROSES 
Though these are usually pretty well 
ripened before frost comes there is no need 
of lifting them before the other bulbs. 
Lift the plants with tops attached and 
either spread them out or hang them up to 
dry. After they have become thoroughly 
dried, cut the stems off close to the bulb. 
The scaly covering of these bulbs renders 
them less susceptible to injury from severe 
drying, but it is better not to hurry the 
drying process. 
ELEPHANT’S EAR OR CALADIUM 
This large plant with succulent foliage 
should not be:cut down hard at lifting time. 
If you want large flowered gladioli and many of 
them, store bulbs as directed here 
