NoveEMBER, 1908 
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THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 
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Ingenious plan for a 10 x 20 ft. garden that will be attractive all winter. 
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Everything but the bulbs 
can be gotten from the wild or by exchange with neighbors 
The cheeriest color in winter is red and 
bittersweet berries last all winter. There- 
fore I would plant three bittersweet vines 
on the back fence. 
The ideal evergreen vine for winter 
effect is the climbing euonymus, which also 
has red berries that last all winter, but if 
you cannot afford this get some of Hall’s 
honeysuckle, which may stay green only 
till Christmas but has fragrant flowers more 
or less all summer. 
To support these vines I should set a 
stout post deep and strong, at the two back 
corners of the garden, or make use of 
“neighboring buildings, and string from 
place to place clothes line wire — three 
strands at a height of three, five and seven 
feet respectively. 
Along the two sides of the yard I should 
have a blaze of autumn scarlet by bringing 
in from the edge of town suckers from 
sumac bushes. With your pocket knife 
you can cut up, say fifty suckers, each 
six or eight inches long and set them as 
shown. 
Never let these grow long and leggy. Cut 
them down to the ground every year at the 
end of March and you will have tropical 
luxuriance of foliage and neat, compact 
habit. 
SHRUBS TO PLANT THIS FALL 
Every yard ought to contain some shrubs 
with berries that are attractive all winter. 
Try first to find barberries or high bush cran- 
berries growing wild near you, because they 
are red and last all winter. If you can’t get 
them, take a drive into the country now and 
dig up wahoo or strawberry bushes (two 
species of euonymus), or the black alder 
which is often called winterberry. Berried 
shrubs should give a fair effect the sec- 
ond winter and a really splendid show the 
third. 
The quickest and cheapest way to get 
winter color in the city yard is to plant shrubs 
with brightly colored bark. Near a swamp 
edge you can find red-twigged dogwood, or 
the purple-barked kinnikinnick (Cornus 
Amomum). If you cannot find any plants 
small enough to move, take cuttings about 
ten inches long of these and the yellow 
barked willow and put them in sand and 
water until they root. Then plant them 
in soil. 
BULBS TO PLANT THIS FALL 
The quickest and surest way to have 
flowers is to plant hardy bulbs now, for 
they will bloom next March and April and 
for many years thereafter if you take good 
care of them. 
You can count on snowdrops for March 
and usually crocuses and scillas. Daffodils 
will not bloom before April, but they will 
flower before the trees leaf out. 
The prettiest way to plant the small bulbs 
is to scatter them in the lawn because they 
look like wild flowers. Every yard should 
have a central lawn without flower beds. 
To “naturalize” crocuses, scillas, and 
snowdrops make a dibble by pointing a 
broomstick. 
177 
Make about a hundred little holes irregu- 
larly over your lawn, each four inches deep. 
Drop into each a good teaspoonful of sand, 
then set in, root side down, the little 
bulbs. Rake the ground over them. Scat- 
ter grass seed over the holes, and step 
on the seed. 
SEEDS AND PLANTS FOR NEXT SPRING 
If you can afford it you ought to have 
three crops of flowers on the same ground. 
This you can do by planting bulbs every- 
where between the shrubs and covering 
these with a carpet of shallow-rooting plants 
that will bloom at a different time from 
the bushes and make a pretty cushion 
through which the bulbs can easily force 
their way. 
For example, you can buy two dozen pansy 
plants next March, at twenty-five cents a 
dozen, and set these at intervals of two feet 
over the daffodils. Violets would be still 
more permanent. 
You can sow sweet alyssum either in fall 
or spring. It will bloom twenty weeks if 
not allowed to form seed until the fall. Then 
let it do so and it will self-sow and hide all 
the dirt. 
The best annual I know for October and 
November bloom is cosmos, provided you 
are willing to cover the tall plants with bur- 
lap on frosty nights. I have indicated a 
row of the pink and white varieties in front 
of the back fence. 
Since all permanent vines require two 
years or more to make a tall growth, I should 
intersperse some annual vines. Therefore, 
I would plant next spring a hop vine of 
sufficient size to give a glow of yellow in 
the autumn. 
The most reliable plants for November 
are hardy pompon chrysanthemums which 
will sometimes supply flowers until Thanks- 
giving. In the spring you can get some 
plants from neighbors for they multiply - 
- rapidly. 
Showing how the shrubs with brightly colored bark or berries can be bordered with permanent bulbs 
like daffodils. 
practically three crops of flowers 
These beds, covered with violets or pansies, will give a good succession of bloom and 
