The Read Se dt 
FoR WORST EIS EIR ar HE GARDEN MAGAZINE JANUARY, 1909 
Dima (arden Book 
foe Ce ee 
PRIADE i 
om ee ADE 
pREER'S a 
wb Late Bre inching | 
N Dreer’s Garden Book for 1909 the amateur gardener 
will find the exact information he desires—clear, concise, 
dependable cultural instructions for successfully growing 
flowers and vegetables. There are over 
‘One Hundred Special Cultural Articles 
most of them written expressly for the 1909 Dreer’s Garden 
Book by such eminent authorities as: 
Mrs. H. Rutherfurd Ely, author of “A Woman’s Hardy Garden” 
Prof. L. H. Bailey, of Cornell University 
Mr. Wm. Falconer, former Editor of ““Gardening”’ 
. Geo. W. Oliver, expert plantsman and writer 
. W. C. Egan, the eminent amateur 
. E. E. Rexford, the noted writer on house plants 
. T. Greiner, author of ‘“How to Make the Garden Pay,” etc. 
And Special Articles by our own experts. 
Just what every amateur wants to know, arranged alphabetically for quick 
reference. You would have to read a score of books on gardening to acquire 
the knowledge contained in Dreer’s Garden Book for 1909. Enlarged to 
256 pages, 4 color and 4 duotone plates, and hundreds of photographic repro- 
ductions of worthy novelties and reliable varieties of flowers and vegetables. 
Every grower of flowers or vegetables should have a copy. Write for 
it to-day. We will send a copy free to anyone mentioning ““THE GARDEN 
MacGazine.’’ It will be issued early in January. 
HenryA.Dreer fintadstphia. 
FREE TO FARMERS 
By special arrangement Ratekin’s big 1909 seed catalogue, 
with a sample of ‘‘ Diamond Joe’s Big White”? seed corn 
that made 153 bushels per acre, will be mailed free to 
every reader of this paper who is interested in the crops 
they grow. This big book tells how to make the farm and 
garden pay. It’s worth dollars to all who plant or sow. 
Write for it and mention this paper. The address is S.G. Harris, RosedaleNurseries, Tarrytown, N.Y. 
RATEKIN’S SEED HOUSE, SHENANDOAH, IA. 
“STRAWBERRY PLANTS THAT GROW” 
A Descriptive list of varieties, with prices, also Instructions 
for planting and culture, of Strawberries and other Small Fruits. 
Ready for mailing Jan. Ist, 1909. Sent free to all who ask for it. 
e Fruit and Ornamental 
ris oses Trees, Shrubs, and 
Evergreens. Hardy 
Perennials—a complete line of quality stock. Get our 
free catalogue before you plan your spring purchases. 
C. E. WHITTEN’S NURSERIES Box 10, Bridgman, Mich. 
Planting Deciduous and Eyer 
green Trees and Shrubs 
We vegetation is inactive during 
winter in the Southern States, so far. 
as the formation of new leaves and wood in 
deciduous trees is concerned, the production ° 
of new roots still continues. This can be~ 
demonstrated by digging up a tree in early 
fall and heeling it in until needed for planting 
in its permanent place. When it is taken 
up at the end of a few weeks small new 
rootlets will have started where the older 
roots were cut off. This new root formation. 
is of the utmost importance, and these 
| new rootlets will greatly influence the. 
ultimate rapid recuperation of the trans- 
planted tree. 
Experiment with two trees of the same 
age, class, variety, and vigor of growth. 
Transplant one in the early fall, the other 
in the spring, giving similar conditions of 
soil, fertilization, and care. After the first 
summer's growth, you will find that the fall- - 
planted tree has started into vigorous’ 
growth much sooner than the ~ spring-- 
planted one. Should there happen ‘to, ‘be: 
a long period of dry weather in early- 
spring (as is frequently the case here and~ 
which is often fatal to ‘late- planted trees), | 
you will be surprised at the vigor of- the! 
fall-planted -treé, which, having: been -en-- 
abled to, form a new. root, system during : 
the winter months, has become firmly estab-? 
lished and is therefore prepared to resist 
the drought. 
This is a simple explanation of the value 
of fall and early winter planting in the South 
as compared with spring planting. This} 
climate, however, influences vegetation quite '~ 
differently than that of more northern: 
latitudes. In fall planting, the land must: 
be thoroughly prepared either by deep ‘ 
plowing or subsoiling, or spading and incor- - 
porating with it those fertilizing elements 
which will become readily available as 
plant food. 
Well-decomposed stable manure plowed 
in as soon as a growing crop is removed will, 
as a rule, be found highly beneficial because 
it has been thoroughly mixed with the soil 
during the previous summer or fall. How- 
ever, if this cannot be obtained, then chemical 
or commercial fertilizers may be used. 
One to two pounds of bone meal well mixed 
with the soil of each hole is usually a 
sufficient quantity at planting time. Other 
ingredients rich in potash and phosphates are 
useful, but many trees are killed by an 
overdose of heating or caustic manures. 
Dig the holes not less than two feet deep 
and square and fill with good top soil. 
Remove all bruised roots, shorten the top 
and side branches, and plant the tree no 
deeper than it stood in its former place, 
allowing the earth to fill in well between 
the roots. Watering is necessary only when 
the soil is unusually dry. 
If fruit trees are to be transplanted speci- 
mens one or two years old and well grown 
will generally yield returns much sooner 
than older trees. In the middle and north- 
ern sections where different climatic con- 
ditions prevail, old trees may be successfully 
