CHILDREN'S GARDENS EVERYWHERE 



A Good Problem for Manual- 

 Training Classes 



TO make a hotbed similar to one sug- 

 gested by the accompanying sketch, 

 or as shown by the illustration on the next 

 page, is a problem that is well within the 

 ability of pupils in the last grade of the 

 grammar school, and one that instructors 

 in manual training may find exceedingly 

 valuable as a "group" problem. The 

 practical value of the coldframe when com- 

 pleted and put to use appeals alike to pupil 

 and parent. 



Second quality white pine, chestnut, or 

 a good grade of hemlock will answer for 

 material. The problem will be simplified 

 if boards fourteen inches wide can be 

 secured, but this is not necessary as two 

 pieces of narrower width may be fastened 

 together with cleats to give proper widths 

 for back and end pieces. 



The lumber for sides and ends should be 

 one inch thick while strips marked A 

 and B should be one and one-fourth 

 inches thick. 



Cut out pieces 14 in. x 5 ft. 7 in., and 10 

 in. x 5 ft. 7 in., for the back and front 

 respectively. Cut two pieces 14 x 36 in., 

 and shape them according to drawing 

 for the ends. Nail these four pieces 

 together to form the frame. The sides 

 should be nailed to the ends. Use ten- 

 penny nails and drive them slantingly. 



Saw out strips A two inches 

 wide and as long as the slanting 

 edge of the end of the frame. 

 Care must be taken with this 

 measurement not to measure 

 the slanting edge of the end 

 piece only, but to include with 

 it the thickness of both front 

 and back pieces. Saw out 

 two more pieces two inches 

 wide and as long as the frame 

 is wide at the bottom. Prepare 

 strip B i\ in. x 5 ft. 7 in. 



Lay out notches marked A 

 by dividing top and bottom 

 edges of front and back into 

 three equal spaces. Cut notches 

 to receive strips marked A. 

 Nail strips A in place, also 

 B. To make a neat piece of 

 workmanship the ends of strips 



SEPTEMBER IS THE MONTH FOR RE- 

 SULTS IN THE GARDEN— RESULTS 

 MAY STAND FOR LARGE PUMPKINS 

 AND FINE BEETS — RESULTS MAY MEAN 

 STRONGER BODIES, CLEAR HEADS AND 

 A WHOLESOME RESPECT FOR PROPERTY 



Conducted by 



ELLEN EDDY SHAW 



New York 



A should be planed slightly slanting to 

 make them exactly even, or "flush" with 

 front and back boards. The primary object 

 of strips A is to keep the frame from 

 bulging at the centre. 



Three common single window sashes, 

 22 in. x 3 ft., make an excellent cover for 

 the frame. These should be placed in 

 position and fastened to strip B with 

 two-inch butts. It should be noted that 

 the sashes project over the front so as 

 to carry the water away from the frame. 

 The sash should be fastened to the 

 frame, putty side out. The sash should 

 be marked for their respective posi- 

 tions, then if moved during early winter 

 they may be placed back again in correct 

 position. 



When complete, the entire frame should 

 be painted two coats of dark green paint. 



The size and shape here given are merely 

 suggestive, the essential point is to make 

 a frame that can be covered by any sash 

 that may be readily obtained. It is further 

 hoped that a lack of new lumber, or new 

 sash will not deter either instructors in 

 manual training, or even the boys from 

 trying this interesting problem in school, 

 or at home. 



Hotbeds and Coldframes 



nPHE directions given above are for 

 ■*- either a hotbed or a coldframe. The 

 use you wish to make of it determines which 

 we shall call it. If you wish just to keep 

 plants along and force in early spring then 

 it's a coldframe you want. If you desire 

 results all winter, then it is the hotbed. 



Whichever it is to be, choose a southern 

 exposure up against a sheltering wall, fence, 

 or building for the placing of the frame. 

 The hotbed depends for the heat on fer- 

 tilizer below ground, the coldframe on the 

 natural heat of the sun. 



So if you are placing the frame for hotbed 

 purposes dig below ground about two and 

 a third feet. Two feet of manure should be 

 placed in this cavity, then four inches of 

 good soil. At the ground level set the frame, 

 banking all around with manure or leaf 

 masses. 



If the frame is for the preservation of plants 

 through the winter and for early forcing, 

 then the soil should be spaded up and should 

 have mixed with it about three inches of old 

 rotted manure. 



A Water Garden 



The hotbed illustrated on the next page TT'S not a bad plan to get some of your 

 was made by a group of four boys in *■ work done "nw W tipt*- c,,™™^ 

 the eighth grade of a grammar school, at 

 Trenton, N. J. William R. Ward, 



Supervisor of Manual Training. 

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If tie boys win make a hotbed or coldframe from this plan they can have plants 

 growing all winter, not to speak of its service next spring in starting seeds early 



70 



now for next summer. 

 Too soon? Not a bit of it! Some of you 

 may wish to have toads' eggs, water lilies, 

 fish, or a birds' drinking and bathing place 

 in your garden next year. 

 This means making an arti- 

 ficial pond, not hard to make, 

 unless you take too big a con- 

 tract on your hands. The 

 thing always to keep in mind 

 in a new undertaking is this: 

 don't be too ambitious. 



Find a rather sheltered spot 

 if you wish for toads, fish, or 

 birds, but if you have water 

 lilies in mind, make it out 

 more in the open and sun. 



You need for business, Port- 

 land cement, sand and rock, 

 a trowel, water and a wooden 

 soap box. This last is to mix 

 your mortar in. Take a trowel 

 full of cement to three of 

 sand and four of small stones 

 up to one inch in size; add 



