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THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



October 1909 



Forcing Bulbs for Winter Flowers 



THE three important forcing bulbs which are 

 planted in October are tulips, hyacinths and 

 narcissus and their handling is very nearly the same. 

 For cut flower purposes, plant the bulbs in boxes 

 not less than four inches deep, six inches being the 

 better size. Plant the bulbs about four inches 

 apart each way, being sure that the soil is rich. A 

 good compost is made of one part well-rotted 

 manure to three parts good, turfy loam. After 

 thoroughly mixing add about one shovelful of bone 

 meal to every twelve shovelfuls of compost. Drain- 

 age of some description must be placed in the bottom 

 of each box — a few clam or oyster shells or broken 

 flower pots — then put in about one inch of the com- 

 post, on top of which put the bulbs. Fill the 

 box with soil and firm nicely with the fingers. If 

 the plants are wanted for decorative purposes, 

 plant in pots or pans, one bulb to a 5-inch pot or 

 six or eight bulbs to a 12-inch pan. 



After planting give the bulbs a good sprinkling 

 of water to settle the soil, and bury in a place which 

 is accessible in bad weather, in a trench about one 

 foot deep, Cover the top with litter after the ground 

 has frozen a trifle, using long stakes to mark each 

 variety as it is put away. 



Hyacinths can be forced at almost any time, but 

 by waiting until after November 1st before bringing 

 the boxes into heat you are surer of success. I 

 would even advise the beginner to wait until Decem- 

 ber 1st before trying to force tulips and the large- 

 flowering narcissus. The small-flowered poly- 

 anthus types can be forced just as soon as they are 

 well rooted. 



After bringing the bulbs inside they should not 

 be immediately subjected to too high a temperature 

 — 50 degrees is about right — and after a few days 

 the temperature can be gradually increased; but 

 don't let it exceed 60 degrees. I never exceed 55 

 degrees. On no account allow the plants to suffer 

 for water; as a matter of fact, they can be grown 

 in nothing but water. When the flowering spike 

 shows, an occasional application of liquid manure 

 will help considerably. 



Almost any variety of the Dutch hyacinth forces 

 well, but as cut flowers the Roman hyacinths are 

 more popular. They are very satisfactory to force, 

 and are used a great deal because they are earlier 

 than the Dutch. The white variety is the most 

 common, but the single and double pinks are also 

 popular. The blue variety is not so good, but it 

 helps out as a cut flower because blue flowers for 

 forcing are rather scarce. 



The early single tulip flowers much earlier than 

 the other types, the Darwins being about four weeks 

 later than the early ones. All the Due Van Thol 

 type are good, but Proserpine, in my estimation, is 

 the best forcing tulip on the market. It is a beauti- 

 ful shade of pink. Any of the Darwin varieties can 

 be used, as there is little difference in their time of 

 flowering. 



Narcissus are especially valuable as cut flowers on 

 account of their long stems. The polyanthus type 

 is the earliest and Paper White the most popular 

 variety. The short-cupped narcissus is also largely 

 grown on account of its crimson edged cups. 



For decorative effect in pans the crocus is becom- 

 ing more popular, but although easy to force the 

 stems are too short for cut flowers. Plant the 

 bulbs about an inch apart and about two inches 

 deep, and put them in a coldframe until they are 

 well rooted, when they can be brought into a tem- 

 perature not exceeding 50 degrees. 



Easter lily (Lilium longiflorum) bulbs are planted 

 about October 1st. They are easy to handle if 

 planted in pots, but if wanted as cut flowers they 

 should be planted in benches, provided the tempera- 

 ture can be kept very low until the bulbs are well 

 rooted. If planted in pots, place the pots in a 



The right kind of flat; note ample drainage 



Plant the bulbs in flats and bury outdoors until 

 properly rooted. Then dig up to force 



Bring the flats into warmth as required after 

 the bulbs have been rooted outdoors 



coldframe and cover them slightly with ashes or 

 stable litter until the pots are filled with roots. 

 These plants will stand plenty of heat — even 80 

 degrees will not injure them — but 65 degrees is 

 about the best temperature. Keep them well 

 sprayed, and just as soon as the buds show, give 

 frequent applications of liquid manure. 



Both the Spanish and English irises force well; 

 plant the bulbs in boxes about three inches apart 

 and about two inches deep, and never let them suffer 

 for water. Grow them in a temperature of about 

 60 degrees, but before bringing into heat they should 

 be placed in a cool house or coldframe until they are 

 well rooted. 



Anyone who does not dislike a slight onion-like 

 odor should grow the allium, for it is very produc- 

 tive, every bulb throwing four or five shoots. Plant 

 the bulbs in boxes about three inches apart and place 

 in a coldframe to root, after which they can be grown 

 on in a temperature of 50 degrees. 



The small-flowering anemone can be successfully 

 forced, but does not adapt itself to early forcing. 

 Plant the bulbs in pots, about six to a 6-inch pot, 

 and cover with about one inch of soil. Place in a 



coldframe until they are well rooted, after which they 

 can be brought inside to force, a temperature of 

 50 degrees being about right for good results. 



Ixia and sparaxis can either be planted in flats 

 and pans, or else in pots, allowing about eight bulbs 

 to a 6-inch pot. Cover the bulbs about one inch 

 deep, and do not force too fast. A temperature of 

 55 degrees will be found most satisfactory. 



Plantings of lily-of-the-valley can be made during 

 October, provided you procure cold storage bulbs, 

 which, by the way, are the most satisfactory. I 

 use nothing else. Plant the bulbs very closely, 

 about 100 to a flat, in good, sharp sand. The points 

 of the pips should be left exposed. Place the flats 

 on a pipe in the warmest spot you have, and spray 

 frequently. After the flowers appear, bring the 

 plants out to the light to color. 



There is no better flower for cutting than Star 

 of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum Arabicum). Plant 

 in flats about four inches apart each way, and place 

 in a coldframe until they are well rooted, a tempera- 

 ture of 55 degrees suiting them best. 



As a pot plant for hanging there is nothing better 

 than oxalis. Plant six or eight bulbs in a 5-inch 

 pot, and place in a sunny position in a temperature 

 of 55 degrees. In the greenhouse these can be 

 hung from the rafters and in this way do not occupy 

 any bench space. 



The Colvillii type of gladiolus forces well, but 

 forcing should not commence until after January 

 15th. Put the bulbs in flats during October and 

 place in a coldframe or a cool greenhouse until 

 they are thoroughly rooted. They should then be 

 grown on at a temperature of 55 degrees. 



One last bit of advice: a greenhouse is not a 

 necessity in forcing these bulbs; they can all be 

 grown equally well in an ordinary window if 

 proper attention be given to the temperature. 



The following varieties of Dutch hyacinths I 

 recommend as giving satisfactory results when 

 forced: 



Single: Ida, yellow. La Grandesse, white. King 

 of the Blues, dark blue. Czar Peter, light blue. 

 Lord Macaulay, red. Gertrude, pink. 



Double Flowering: Bouquet Tendre, red. 

 Charles Dickens, light blue. La Tour d' Auvergne, 

 white. Lord Wellington, pink. Garrick, dark 

 blue. Bouquet Orange, yellow. 



Of the early single tulips, all the Due Van Thols 

 and also the following, are good: Proserpine, pink. 

 Keiserskroon, red and yellow. Joost van Vondel, 

 white. William Tresor, yellow. 



Double Flowering: Murrilo, rosy white. Tour- 

 nesol, scarlet and yellow. Le Matador, bright 

 scarlet. Salvator, deep rose. 



Of the large trumpet narcissus Golden Spur is 

 the earliest and Emperor is the largest. The fol- 

 lowing are also excellent: Empress, yellow and 

 white. Horsfieldii, Queen of Daffodils, yellow and 

 white. 



Medium Cupped: Sir Watkin, yellow, wide 

 chalice. Stella, white, orange cup. Minnie Hume, 

 white, pale yellow cup. 



Short cupped, white : Poeticus and poeticus 

 ornatus (Pheasant's Eye), white with red cup. 



Double Flowering: Van Sion, the largest yellow. 

 Albus plenus odoratus, pure white. Orange Phoe- 

 nix (Eggs and Bacon), orange and white. 



New York. W. C. Mc.C. 



Give one thorough watering after planting and 

 before burying. This is all they need before 

 forcing indoors 



