278 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



January, 1910 



While it may not be absolutely necessary, 

 a small iron plane (one in which the blade 

 can be set with a milled head screw is pref- 

 erable, as it is of easy adjustment) is also 

 excellent for smoothing the cut surface, as 

 it is impossible to make the cut surface too 

 smooth. The smoother the cut surface, 

 the more quickly it will heal over and there- 

 fore the less liable to decay; also the closer 

 the limb is cut to the trunk the better; in 

 fact, it should be flush with it if possible. 



The best way to sever a large branch is 

 to make a cut from the under side about 

 two inches from the trunk and one-third 

 the way through; then start at the top and 

 as close to the trunk as possible and cut all 

 the way through. When cut far enough to 

 fall this will prevent splintering of the bark 

 or wood of the tree trunk, and if made 

 smooth and given a coat of white lead will 

 heal over very quickly, without leaving a 

 disfiguring scar on the trunk of the tree. In 

 removing very heavy limbs it is well to cut 

 off by sections. 



TREE-PRUNERS 



In the hands of an intelligent user the 

 tree-pruner is indispensable for heading back 

 branches that show a tendency to outgrow 

 all the others; or for checking the growth 

 of some shoot that exhibits a desire to out- 

 grow the leader. Many trees have a ten- 

 dency to throw up two leaders, if one is 

 not checked the tree will have two trunks, 

 each one having branches on one side only. 

 The pear is much addicted to this habit. 

 When heavily fruited the weight will some- 

 times pull them over and may break them 

 off. At best each one can have but half the 

 strength it should have and all the weight 

 on one side only. 



There are several forms of tree pruners, all 

 of which have merit and no mistake will 

 be made in purchasing any one of them. 

 Of the two shown the one to the left is con- 

 structed of sheet metal riveted together and 

 to the wood pole or handle which must 

 be purchased attached. The cutting blade 

 works between the clutching blades; it is 

 operated by a lever attached to the pole at 

 the lower end and to a wire rod shown 

 fastened to the outer end of the blade; it 

 is forced open after use by the lever and rod 

 and a coil spring not shown. This pruner 

 possesses the advantage of cutting from 



You need a tree pruner to check over- vigorous 

 branches and for summer pruning 



both sides, all other patterns must be hooked 

 on the branch to be cut with the blade 

 toward the outside, or the portion that will 

 be cut off. 



The other one is made of forged steel 

 and with socket handle connection; dif- 

 ferent length handles may be attached for 

 work on trees of different heights. This 

 cuts from one side only and is forced open 

 by the spiral spring shown; it is operated 

 by pulling on the rope attached to the 

 extended arm of the cutting blade. 



SLASHING-KNIFE AND BILL-HOOK 



Two tools for which the average person 

 will have little use are the slashing-knife 

 and bill-hook. The former is similar to 

 the Spanish or Cuban machete. Although 

 not making as clean a job as the particular 

 man would desire in his pruning it is wonder- 

 fully efficient in rough work, as for cutting 

 paths through thickets or the cutting and 

 slashing of heavy shrubbery or underbrush 

 in woods. 



I have not as yet found much use for 

 this tool or the cleaver-like bill-hook. The 

 curved edge of the blade is sharp from the 

 handle to the point, the straight edge portion 

 at the back is sharp also, so that either 

 portion may be used for the trimming of 

 shrubbery or underbrush. It is a handy 

 tool for general use, however, and in England 

 where hedges abound, is always found in the 

 gardener's- equipment. 



Few who do not have large, properties to 

 tend will find use for either the slashing-knife 

 or bill-hook. On the well-kept medium 

 size or small country place more care is 

 (or should be) exercised in the work of 

 pruning than can be in the use of these tools, 

 intended for wholesale trimming. 



S GARDENS EVERYWHERE 



THE first Garden Magazine planting 

 contest is over. About five hundred 

 boys and girls have competed individually, 

 and fifteen schools and associations entered. 

 The prizes fell into two classes, the first for 

 individuals, and the second for groups, such 

 as schools and associations. First, second 

 and third prizes were given in Class I. The 

 first prize a set of four books from the Gar- 

 den Library, namely: "The Flower Gar- 

 den," "The Vegetable Garden," "The 



A CONTEST MEANS MORE THAN WIN- 

 NING OR LOSING A PRIZE; IT MEANS 

 GAINING GREATER EXPERIENCE TO 

 BUILD UPON FOR THE NEXT PIECE OF 

 WORK. IT MEANS, TOO, THE JOY OF 

 MEASURING ONESELF AGAINST OTHERS 



Conducted by 



ELLEN EDDY SHAW 



New York 



Orchard and Fruit Garden," and "House 

 Plants and How to Grow Them." The 

 second prize consists of two books, "The 

 Flower Garden," and "The Vegetable 

 Garden." For third prizes a year's sub- 

 scription is given to The Garden Magazine. 

 The prize offered in Class II is a complete set 

 of The Nature Library. A list of prize 

 winners in both classes is given on page 294. 

 So much of interest arises in connection 

 with the individual prizes that it seems best 



to discuss only this one class this month. 

 And even with just this alone we might fill 

 several pages of the magazine with just the 

 letters of the children who entered the race; 

 so you boys and girls will find that your 

 letters have been cut down, they just had to 

 be. Some of you might take up a special 

 topic out of your letters and write separate 

 articles on just one point. For example, 

 Frank Woods might tell us just how he treats 

 his asters to have such success; Jane Musser, 



