October, 1911 



THE GARDEN MAGAZIN E 



119 



The prairie rose (R. seligera) has single flowers, 

 makes a fine bush, and has winter beauty 



There is no reason why the rose garden 

 should take a shape having equal dimen- 

 sions both ways. It may be long and nar- 

 row, and I am not sure that that is not the 

 best form, especially when space is re- 

 stricted. It can be better brought into 

 harmony with the adjacent parts of the 

 garden. As a walk, too, it is less tedious 

 to traverse. 



Roses make considerable demands upon 

 the soil, and therefore rose beds and borders 

 should be deeply trenched in the first 

 instance, and treated liberally with manure. 

 The common impression that clay soil is 

 the best for roses is not altogether correct. 

 They will thrive in almost any soil, pro- 

 vided they are well supplied with fertil- 

 izing matter. In light soils the manure 

 we give them is not retained so long as in 

 heavy soil, and thus, under careless cul- 



ture, they may starve. For this reason, 

 if the soil is sandy and light, it is well to 

 add a proportion of heavier material to 

 give ?t tenacity and retentive quality, 

 and in manuring to use cow manure. If 

 the garden is made upon turf, then dig in 

 the sods, and add any other decaying vege- 

 table matter you may have available 



On heavy land it may be necessary to 

 drain the rose bed. This may be done by 

 throwing out the soil to a depth of three 

 feet, adding nine inches of rubble or brick 

 rubbish, and then filling up with soil. 

 In such case it is well to bring the level of 

 the beds well above that of the ground, 

 thorough preparation of the rose bed is the 

 surest guarantee of future success. 



The operation of planting cannot be 

 too carefully conducted. Holes should 

 be got out of ample size, with the bottom 

 formed dome-shape to faciliate arranging 

 the roots. 



These should be separated and distri- 

 buted radially over the bottom of the hole. 

 Fine soil should then be placed over the 

 rootlets, moving the stem of the plant up 

 and down to allow it to penetrate among 

 them. The remainder of the soil may then 

 be added and firmly rammed down. It 

 should not be heaped round the stem, 

 but left slightly depressed so as to facilitate 

 watering. Though there may be little 

 to be gained by care in spreading the roots, 

 so far as mere gravel goes, yet there is 

 no doubt that the care in spreading them 

 as widely as possible at the foot of the 

 hole renders excellent service in anchoring 

 the plant to the soil. If no rain follows 

 planting, give some water about a week 













• *-• r - r ^- 





Hedges of garden roses are not practical save on 

 the Pacific Coast. Portland. Ore. 



after. A mulching of manure may then 

 be put around each plant as protection 

 from frost. 



Roses must not be crowded together too 

 closely. Standards should not be less 

 than three feet apart, and bushes not less 

 than one and a half to two feet. 



The disposition of the plants in a rose 

 garden is largely a matter of taste. With 

 many beds to fill, we may devote each 

 bed to several roses of the same color or 

 kind, and thus get our color effect in masses. 

 On the other hand with a less elaborate 

 garden, contrasting or harmonizing colors, 

 may be associated together in the same- 

 bed or border. 



Permanent Vines for Fall Planting— By w. c. McCollom, , 



THIS TABLE WILL HELP YOU TO SELECT A SUITABLE VINE TO COVER AN OLD 

 BUILDING, WALL OR UGLY FENCE— DO IT NOW; THERE'S OTHER WORK IN SPRING 



Long 

 siand 



EQUALLY with other kinds of deci- 

 duous stock, all the deciduous per- 

 manent vines can be planted in the fall. 

 There is this much about it, however. If 

 you do plant vines in the fall, do not train 

 them to their supports until the following 

 spring. Instead, tie all the shoots together 

 where they lie on the ground; or better 

 still, bury them to a depth of five to six 

 inches. Do this, and then in the spring- 



time you will have sturdy growths ready 

 for training over the supports. Plant a 

 trifle deeper than in the nursery, but be 

 careful not to plant grafted vines too 

 deeply. Make the holes as close as possible 

 to the supports. If the roots are some 

 distance away, the growth will sag down as 

 it develops, and heavy snows are likely 

 to pull the vine down from its support. 

 Finally, prepare for transplanting in 



exactly the same way as you would trees 

 and shrubs. If the soil is poor, take it out 

 and replace with good garden soil, enriched. 

 Also select your vine for the purpose in 

 hand, a dwarf vine for a low building and 

 a free-growing vine for a tall building. 

 Vines like Boston ivy will do better in 

 the shade; climbing roses must have 

 sunshine; English ivy will not grow in 

 dry, sunny places. 



VINES THAT ARE GROWN FOR THEIR FLOWERS 



COMMON NAME 



BOTANICAL NAME 



HEIGHT FT. 



TIME OF FLOWERING 



COLOR OF FLOWERS 



HABIT OF CLIMBING 



WHEN TO PRUNE 



REMARKS 



Actinidia 



Actinidia arguta 



3° 



June 



White 



Twining 



Early spring 



Greenish-yellow edible fruit. 

 Has no insect pests 



Silver sweet 



Actinidia polygama 



20 



July 



White 



Twining 



Early spring 



Yellow fruit. Attracts cats 

 and must be protected 



Akebia 



Akebia quinata 



25 



May 



Purple and 

 brown 



Twining 



After 

 flowering 



Light foliage effect. In Japan 

 the fruit is eaten 



Golden bells 



Forsythia suspensa 



IS 



April-May 



Yellow 



Needs help 



After 

 flowering 



Excellent for mass effects in 

 early spring, F. Fortunei 

 is more vigorous 



Hardy jasmine 



Jasminum nudiflorum 



20 



March- 

 April 



Yellow 



Twining 

 needs help 



Early spring 



Strong growers. With pro- 

 tection, hardy in New York 



