November, 1911 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



163 



keep out all the troubles mentioned above, 

 until the wound has time to heal over. 



2. Keep the head of the tree as low as 

 possible in relation to its size. The real 

 height is determined at the first shaping 

 of the tree, just after it is set, so in an old 

 orchard we can only modify what already 

 exists. At all events don't try to "clean 

 the trees up" by taking off all the lower 

 limbs. Every apple or peach that can be 

 picked from the ground is worth more to 

 you than one that must be reached from a 

 ladder. Where you must prune, let it be, 

 if possible, from the upper side of a main 

 branch so that the shoot that is left, or 

 that may develop, will grow downward and 

 outward. If necessary "dehorn" the tree 

 by cutting off bodily a few main branches, 

 and grafting into their stubs cions that 

 can later be trained to make low bushy 

 growth. But in doing this take note of 

 Rule 4, below. 



For the small home orchard, the dwarf 

 is the best form of tree, and it has even 

 been planted to some extent in commercial 

 orchards. But you can head a standard 

 two or two and a half feet from the ground 

 so that it will combine all the advantages 



of low growth, stocky form — resisting 

 wind and storm — easy pruning and pick- 

 ing, and handsome appearance, with the 

 large bearing surface and the long life of 

 the standard type. Only when you find 

 the limbs of a fine, large tree broken off 

 by snow and wind do you really appreciate 

 the value of a low head. But this experi- 

 ence is costly. 



3. Prune to keep the head of the tree open. 

 Sunlight and air are not merely desirable, 

 but absolutely vital to the success of the 

 tree. They not only induce health and 

 strength, develop tissue and assist in manu- 

 facturing food, but also give to the fruit 

 that rich color and the final touch of flavor 

 that mark the finest product. Therefore, 

 thin out the branches crowding the centre 

 of the head, that free access may be given 

 the sun and air to the entire bearing area. 

 Stimulate the production of fruit on the 

 outside of the tree, especially low down 

 upon it, by removing shoots that grow 

 from inside buds and tend to congest the 

 centre of the head. So mold the tree, 

 in brief, that every branch and limb has 

 a definite place and purpose. Countless 

 small shoots, forming a thick bushy head, 



merely appropriate nutrition and develop 

 a mass of leaves to create shade and thereby 

 lessen the yield. 



4. Change the shape of a tree gradually. 

 If you decide that it should be reduced 

 one half or one third, remove only about 

 a third or a cjuarter of the excess wood each 

 year for three or four seasons. Similarly 

 if grafting or top-working, spread the entire 

 work over two or more years. Otherwise 

 the shock to the tree will result in a great 

 growth of water sprouts, tender, juicy, 

 green and attractive, but useless. When- 

 ever these do appear, whatever the cause, 

 rub or nip them off. But do not let over- 

 zealousness in pruning on your part, be 

 the cause of their appearance. 



5. Don't waste time trying to prune old, 

 worn out trees. When a tree becomes too 

 old and weak to bear a profitable crop, 

 chop it down. But meanwhile have started 

 a new tree near the site of the old one so 

 that it will be ready to take its place. 

 Sentiment and artistic temperament are 

 all very well in their places, but they should 

 not be allowed to cause the maintenance 

 of a menace to the other trees on the place. 

 For an old tree becomes that, harboring 



Copyright John G. Showell 



The low-headed tree Is easier to care for. handsomer to look at. andsafer from wind and wsather. The type and ideal of the modern orchard 



