168 



1 wE 



The "Japanese" type, loose long rays 



green wood, and removing the lower 

 leaves before planting them in light soil 

 (but preferably in sand) in a place where 

 they can have shade and water during 

 this critical stage of their growth. When 

 renewed growth shows they have rooted, 

 they may be removed to their permanent 

 quarters if these be ready, but it may be 

 well to say here that chrysanthemums 

 transplant very well with a large ball of 

 earth if watered a few hours before mov- 

 ing and given some shade, should a hot 

 day follow the change of position. 



As many varieties need assistance in 

 "breaking," it is well to pinch the top 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



out of any plant which shows no inclination 

 to branch, as this will result in the pro- 

 duction of a number of new shoots around 

 the pinched part. Now the grower has 

 to decide how many branches he will 

 allow to each plant, as upon this largely 

 depends the size of the flowers. If. from 

 one to six stems are left, good individual 

 flowers may be obtained — the fewer 

 the shoots, the larger the flowers. From 

 August on each of the branches may be 

 expected to produce a cluster of buds, and, 

 if large flowers are wanted, only one — 

 generally the central or "crown" bud — 

 should be allowed to bloom, all the rest 

 being gradually pinched out while still 



November, 1911 



■Japanese Incurved." from a terminal bud. 



the September magazine) 



(See 



A "standard" must be started very early in spring 

 and all side shoots rubbed off as the plant develops 



small, so as to throw the strength of the 

 plant into that one flower. Some varieties 

 do better if the whole top of the shoot is 

 removed at this stage, and the "second 

 crown" bud produced is used, but this 

 is largely a matter of experience. Of 

 course, if sprays are preferred, only such 

 disbudding as will prevent crowding is 

 required. Both for garden and house 

 decoration these are better for artistic 

 effect — indeed, the delightful single chry- 

 santhemums so easily raised from seed, 

 and the early double varieties, so popular 

 in England, are grown almost always 

 in this natural way. 



All through the long summer the plants 

 should be kept supplied with water, but 

 if a good mulch of old manure is spread 

 around them it will serve the triple purpose 

 of conserving the moisture, feeding the 

 plants, and rendering cultivation unnec- 

 essary. 



"Japanese reflexed " is characterized by the extra 

 length of the pendant rays 



As the plants grow taller they will 

 require tying or staking. If grown in 

 rows for cut flowers only, an easy way to 

 do this is to put strong posts at each end 

 of the rows, string two or three strands of 

 wire to these, and tie the stems to them 

 with soft string. When plants are grown 

 singly, it is better to put three light stakes 

 around each plant, join the tops by string 

 or wire, and tie the branches to these, thus 

 leaving a loose, graceful plant instead of 

 the bunched-up effect resulting from tying 

 to a single stake. Much may be done to 

 lighten this work if dwarf-growing kinds 

 are obtained as far as possible, for some 



A bloom of the same variety as chat on the left, 

 but from a crown bud 



