On the stone boat. Tripod used for tree six inches caliper or under, 

 getting second tree level by tilting and filling 



Men 



Ready to be moved. The front guide rope is fastened to clevis on the 

 stone boat, the two side ropes being held by laborers 



Moving Big Trees in Winter -By w. c. McCoiiom 



THE ADVANTAGE OF THE FROZEN BALL METHOD OF HANDLING YOUR OWN SPECI- 

 MENS—PROFITABLE WINTER WORK THAT CAN BE DONE IN HARD WEATHER 



Long 

 Island 



IN MY experience it is easier and far 

 less risky to move plants of any size 

 right in midwinter than at any other time of 

 the year. As a matter of fact you can 

 move trees at almost any time, with care — 

 and there are very few weeks in the entire 

 year that some one doesn't claim as the 

 "best" time to plant, and each one has 

 good practical argument to back up his 

 theory. If you are a good plantsman, 

 you can move trees at almost any time 

 with success; and equally, if you are 

 careless and do not pay strict attention to 

 details, you will meet with failure under 

 the most favorable 

 circumstances. 



Of course, any one 

 with a spade can 

 move privet — it will 

 live in spite of you 

 — but it is of the 

 larger sized trees 

 which sometimes 

 must be moved 

 and which must be 

 moved properly or 

 be lost, that I would 

 speak. 



Some move ever- 

 greens in August. 

 I do too, when I 

 have any moderate 

 sized pieces to 

 which I can give 

 the best of atten- 

 tion after moving. 

 The great drawback 

 with August plant- 

 ing is the lack of 

 rain during the 

 summer. 



POINTS YOU MUST HEED 



The essentials of successful planting 

 are simple: the roots must be disturbed 

 as little as possible. In winter you can 

 cut out the ball, any size you wish, and 

 then let it freeze solid, when it may be 

 drawn over the frozen ground more econo- 

 mically than in any other way. Some 

 claim also that by getting the entire root 

 system as you do in this way the tree is 

 better off. 



I have moved trees up to sixteen inches 

 caliper by the midwinter balling and 



This tree is being prepared for removal without a ball — all the earth is worked off the fine roots, 

 method reduces weight and is favored by many for large trees 



217 



freezing method, and I have yet to lose 

 one. And I can move three for what it 

 costs to move one by any other method. 



ADVANTAGES OF THE FROZEN BALL 



As the trees can be moved with as large 

 a ball of earth as you have time and money 

 to spend on them, the roots need not be 

 exposed at all in the frozen ball method. 

 Any tree for which you have a special 

 regard and which must be moved, can be 

 transplanted with certainty by this method, 

 provided you will take a large enough ball. 

 Another point which I consider a great 

 advantage is this : 

 by balling none of 

 the small fibrous 

 roots (the roots to 

 which a tree must 

 look for its Liveli- 

 hood) are disturbed 

 in the least. They 

 are not killed by 

 being exposed to the 

 sun and winds, 

 which by other 

 methods is likely to 

 be the case. More- 

 over no matter how 

 much care and pre- 

 caution is taken, 

 some of the roots 

 are sure to be lost 

 and those taken can 

 never go back into 

 the ground just as 

 they were before. 

 Many of them get 

 cracked or twisted 

 and are therefore 

 rendered useless. 



This 



