The Garden Magazine 



Volume XIX 



MARCH, 1 914 1 







IMP 



Number 2 





YOU had better look through some of the catalogues to 

 see if there isn't something you have forgotten — such 

 as raffia for tying, it is cheaper and better than string; 

 a spray pump perhaps; some of the new dahlias, or 

 perhaps some of the new chrysanthemums; some special fertilizer; 

 plant labels; some fruit trees or bushes to fill in any spaces; 

 plants for that hedge which you have been considering 

 ^ ings *? for so long; some summer bulbs, such as montbretia 

 or gladiolus. Check up your seed and plant orders 

 before it gets late. There is surely some little thing forgotten. 



Will you grow any farm crops this summer? Better get your 

 seed supply at once if you haven't already done so. It is also de- 

 sirable to start plowing your manure under any time that the 

 ground gets in condition for working. 



Any changes that are contemplated in the herbaceous border 

 should be under way as early as possible; the earlier this is done 

 the better. 



If you have not already done so, order any new perennials that 

 you will require. When selecting new plants, do not pick out all 

 the cheap ones; the more expensive varieties are, in most cases, 

 worth the difference in price. 



Toward the end of the month, tender trees and shrubs that were 

 protected by windbreaks, pine boughs, straw covers, etc., can have 

 this protection removed. 



The leaves can now be raked up, also gathered from places 

 where you used them as a mulch, such as rhododendron beds, 

 bulb plantings, etc. Do not burn the leaves as they are too valu- 

 able a fertilizer; pile them up in a heap in some out of the way 

 corner. 



Ornamental plants in tubs, such as bay trees, boxwood, ever- 

 greens, hydrangeas, etc., must be attended to now. Any repotting 

 that is necessary should be done at this time. Do not neglect to 

 put plenty of leafmold in the compost for tub plants as it helps to 

 hold moisture. Furthermore, these plants like it excepting the 

 hydrangeas. When retubbing plants always put plenty of drain- 

 age in the tub and pot firm. Use a pick handle to ram the soil; 

 also char the tub inside. They will last longer. Char by pouring 

 about one cupful of kerosene in each tub, rolling the tub around, 

 then set fire. Keep the tub rolling to burn evenly; when suffic- 

 iently charred up end the tub and the fire will go out at once. 



Better look over the summer bulbs now and see that they are 

 all right. The place may be too warm and growth will have 

 started. Keep them in a cooler place if this is the case. 



Shrubbery borders or like places that have been mulched with 

 manure should now have it dug under. Get it in deep. 



Have you made provision for lima bean poles? It is a fine day's 

 sport; go up into the woods and gather a few. Get cedar poles 

 if you can and when trimming leave about one inch on the branches. 



PLANTING is in order now, and all changes which you intend 

 -*- to make should be made as early as possible. Do not put 

 this off, as the earlier it is done the better success you will have. 



IMPORTANT DUTIES 



Setting out shrubs, 

 trees, etc ; working 

 up the stock of sun- 

 dries; hauling man- 

 ure on to the garden: 

 cigging in the winter 

 mulch; pruning fruit 

 trees and roses (but 

 not spring flowering 

 shrubs generally); 

 sowing the very 

 early outdoor veget- 

 ables 



Order at once whatever shrubs or trees you are going to use. 

 You will get a much better selection by ordering early. 



Remember the four important points about plant- 



Shrubs m ^c * n §" ^£ ^ e tree or s ^ ru ^ as careru hy as you can 

 to preserve all roots possible ; have the new location 

 well finished, dug deep and roomy, with plenty of manure in 

 the bottom, but not in actual contact with the roots; pack the 

 soil carefully around the roots with your heel or with a tamp; 

 and see that the plant is watered during dry weather for the 

 first season at least. Do not allow the trees or shrubs to lie 

 around with the roots exposed; the wind will soon dry up the 

 young fibrous roots and kill them. 



Be careful not to let the roots get frozen. That is fatal. If you 

 cannot set the plants when received, at least cover up the roots. 



. How about some dwarf fruit trees? Don't you 



Garden* ttlink yOU had better nave some? 



Is your fruit border all right, or are you going to 



get some of the better varieties of raspberries and blackberries? 



Try some of the big English gooseberries. Do not believe the 

 man who tells you that you cannot grow them over here; you can. 



Now is the time to secure some good stock for grafting to some 

 of the inferior quality fruit trees later on. This is not a Herculean 

 task; try it this spring. Procure good healthy cuttings of good 

 varieties and bury them in the garden for later use. 

 To Prune Pruning is one of the big March jobs that cannot 



or Not to be put off until April without causing serious trouble. 



Prune Do not try to dodge the issue; face it with a deter- 

 mined mind and a pair of "good" pruning shears. 



Pruning is very advantageous when properly performed; but 

 it is very detrimental when poorly or ignorantly done. Do not 

 prune anything, not even privet, until you have first determined 

 why and how you should proceed. 



At this time all foliage trees and shrubs can be pruned, if nec- 

 essary, with the possible exception of the maple which will bleed 

 if cut now. But if it is necessary to cut the maples, they should be 

 painted at once with waterproof roofing paint. 



If you have not already pruned your grape canes, do so at once. 

 Paint the large cuts with shellac to prevent bleeding, and if this 

 does not stop it sear the cut with a red hot iron. 



Young fruit trees can be pruned at this time because you are 

 trying to form a nucleus of sturdy wood for later bearing. Trees 

 which have reached the fruiting size had best be pruned in summer. 



Prune also althea, baccharis, berberis, hydrangea, roses of all 

 kinds, privet, spirea (A. Waterer), and all foliage trees or shrubs. 



Do not prune azalea, cercis, calycanthus, cytissus, cornus, 

 halesia, deutzia, exochorda, forsythia, magnolia, lonicera, lilacs, 

 Philadelphus, prunus, spirea (except A. Waterer), viburnum, 

 weigela, and pyrus. 



Prune the climbing roses by removing all the old wood, making 

 room for the young shoots that spring up from the bottom. The 

 laterals can then be cut back to a couple of eyes. 



Remember when pruning the hybrid roses that they must be 



83 



