March, 1914 



THE GARDEN M A (! A Z I X E 



97 



its pure white, semi-double, fragrant 

 flowers are borne in clusters, and are very 

 beautiful. There are now several hybrids 

 of this type well worth trying, for some of 

 them have flowers that really are " roses." 



PLANTING AND PRUNING 



It pays to have the home grounds planted 

 under the supervision of a landscape archi- 

 tect, who will prepare the plans for a 

 reasonable price. There are, however, a 

 few general rules that any one may follow 



and obtain very creditable results. If the 

 grounds are small use mostly dwarf kinds. 

 Always avoid crowding, and keep the lawn 

 open by planting only on the borders. The 

 heaviest planting should, as a rule, be at 

 the corners. In the background should 

 be grouped the tall shrubs (lilac, mock 

 orange, highbush cranberry, etc.) ; in front 

 of these, varieties of medium size (bridal 

 wreath, bush honeysuckle, red dogwood, 

 etc.); in front, the low varieties (hy- 

 drangea, Japanese barberry, deutzia, etc.) 



Dig iarge holes and use good rich soil. 

 Immediately after planting cut back each 

 shrub at least a third. And mulch well ali 

 newly planted stock, especially the first 

 winter. 



Prune spring flowering shrubs just after 

 they flower, and do it by cutting out at the 

 ground line the old wood only. Shrubs 

 that bloom in the summer (on wood that is 

 made this season) should be pruned early 

 in the spring before growth starts. Dead 

 wood should be removed at any time. 



What To Do With the Hotbeds Now - By Albert E. Wilkinson, 



Cornell 

 University 



THE hotbed that was started last 

 month should be giving actual 

 returns now and all through the 

 month of March. Radishes will 

 mature first. If all conditions have been 

 congenial, some roots will be ready to eat in 

 seventeen or eighteen days from planting 

 the seed. The entire planting should be 

 off in twenty-five to twenty-eight days from 

 seed planting. Proper management of the 

 water supply is the chief factor with radishes 

 in hotbeds; an excess of water makes the 

 plants sappy and spindly, or (in some cases) 

 stunted. Too little water will also cause 

 stunting. A high temperature produces 

 spindly, sappy growth, and if accompanied 

 with excessive watering, few if any edible 

 parts will be developed. Too low a 

 temperature is not good, as it checks 

 growth, which means a longer period for 

 maturing. A temperature of 45 to 55 

 degrees F. is best. 



Lettuce, spinach and beets grow more 

 slowly than radish. Still, at four weeks 

 from seed planting there will be plants of 

 which all the leaves can be consumed. 

 They are really very delicious in this young 

 stage. If heads or larger leaf growth be 

 desired, more time must be given. Eight to 

 ten weeks is necessary for good "heads" to 

 form. 



Spinach is a rapid grower and will be 

 ready to eat in twenty-eight to forty days 

 from seed sowing time. 



Beets can. be consumed as "greens" 

 twenty-eight days after being planted, 



provided that conditions for rapid develop- 

 ment have been maintained. The entire 

 bed can be utilized in this way, or the beet 

 seedlings can be thinned at this time; the 

 thinnings consumed as greens, and the re- 

 mainder allowed to develop their roots. 

 Six to eight weeks from seed planting will 

 then be necessary. 



Carrots will also grow well under the 

 above requirements, furnishing extra choice 

 small roots in six to ten weeks from seed. 

 These small roots are very delicious. 



Turnips are very rapid growers, small 

 roots being obtained in five or six weeks 



Efficient hotbed management means 

 getting the crop out of the bed just as soon 

 as it is fit to eat, and make no mistake here 

 — the small sizes are far superior to the 

 older and larger ones. Therefore, clear off 

 the bed at the first chance and immediately 

 follow by another crop. The soil must be 

 inverted by digging and rendered level and 

 fine by raking. The first cropping plan 

 can be repeated or a new one used. 



If the second crop is to be ready for 

 harvesting May 1st to 15th, the planting 

 plan must include the growing of seedlings 

 for transplanting into the garden. Cab- 

 bages, cauliflower, kohlrabi, tomatoes, 

 onion seedlings, peppers, eggplants, and 

 other vegetables, as well as all kinds of 

 annual flowering plants, can be started 

 at this time from seed in the beds, or they 

 may be transplanted from a flat in which 

 they have been grown elsewhere. They 

 may be transplanted directly into the soil 



of the hotbed, allowing more room for 

 development, or they may be placed in pots 

 and set slightly into the soil. When pots 

 are used, it is indeed best to remove part of 

 the soil from the hotbed, leaving only 

 about two to three inches under the pots. 



Where but one hotbed sash is available, 

 the planting can be done as suggested in 

 Fig. 1. The plants for the pots must have 

 been raised elsewhere three or four weeks 

 before transplanting into the pots; or seed 

 may be sown directly in each pot at this 

 time. The seeds of beets, carrots, lettuce, 

 and radishes should be sown in the rows and 

 covered about one half inch deep. 



With two hotbed sash available, one 

 can be utilized to grow plants for trans- 

 planting purposes, while under the other 

 sash vegetables can be raised to maturity. 

 If, however, it is planned to follow this 

 planting by still further crops in the hotbed, 

 and with a crop of cucumbers, it will be well 

 to give over to cucumbers one half of one 

 of the rows of pots. Sow four seeds in 

 each pot and thin later to one plant. 



With four hotbed sash, a more elaborate 

 planting scheme can be followed. One sash 

 can be used to produce vegetable plants for 

 transplanting. Another can be devoted 

 to growing a variety of flowering plants for 

 future transplanting, and two sash can be 

 given over to the production of vegetables 

 in variety. If cucumbers are to follow 

 this planting as a summer crop, then one 

 row of pots under the first sash should be 

 devoted to them. 



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1. Planting plan for one 

 sash only 



iZ FOTS OF CABBAGE 



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CAULIFLOWER 



CAULIFLOWER 



!ssa 



tSSELS SFTS 



EGGPLANTS 



TOMATOES 



-ONIONS 



- ONIONS 



-ONIONS 



-BEETS 



-BEETS 



-BEETS 



-LETTUCE - 

 -CELERY — 



- celery— 



-TUBNTPS- 

 -T*URN1RS- 



~^^£TS - 

 - CARROTS - 



- ONION SBTS - 



- LET TUCE 



- LETTUCE 



- LET TUCE 



- RADISH 



-RADISH 



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(tSAMFL AS J 

 \L\E\FT HAL,f\ 

 I Of FIG. Z J 



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-ASTER 



-ASTER 



-AS TEH 



-AS TER 



- VERBENAS 



- VERBENAS 



-STOCK 



-STOCK 



-SALVIA 



-SALVIA 



-SNAPDRAGON - 

 SNA PDRaGON - 



-PHL OX 



-FHLOJ 



-Z.ENNIA 



-ZENMtA 



-COCKSCOMB — 

 -COCKSCOMB — 



-MERl&OLD 



-PANSY 



-PANSY 



-LETTUCE- ■ 

 -JLETTUCE - 

 -EE-TTCICE ■ 



-SPIN ACM' 



-SPINACH 



- STINACM 



-SP7NAC&T 



-<SPINACH 



-SPJNACH 



-RADISH 



-TLA DISH 



- TURNIP - 



- TURNIP - 



- CHARD 



- CHARD 



- ONION SETS 



- ONION SE TS 



- CaRRO TS 



■CARROTS 





4S 



Where two sash are available the space can 

 be used as shown here 



3. With four sash (or more) the home gardener is well equipped to raise early crops here, 

 start tender stuff for transplanting, and start flower seeds, too 



