136 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



March, 1914 



Perfect Your Garden 

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While you are thinking about 

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and wet conditions of early spring. The lima bean 

 is a stickler for warmth, and for soils that are mod- 

 erately dry, crumbly, free from surface-baking and 

 from sour, tough conditions beneath the surface. 

 The soil in which these beans are to be started must 

 positively be light and warm, else the beans will 

 either rot or will be snapped in their attempt to 

 push through the surface. 



For an early crop, it is often possible (in the lat- 

 itude of Philadelphia) to make a planting toward the 

 middle of April. There is a probability that the 

 gardener may lose this planting, but a chance that 

 he may not, in which latter case he will have a crop 

 some time ahead of his neighbors. 



For an extra-early crop I have used with success 

 the following method. About March 25, I fill a 

 half-dozen large flower pots with fine rich soil, and 

 in each of these I plant three lima beans. The pots 

 are then buried until their tops are flush with the 

 surface of the soil in a hotbed. As the young plants 

 come out of the ground, they are thinned so that 

 one only is left in each pot. This method insures 

 a stand. In a month's time from the period of 

 planting, near May 1, the plants will have obtained 

 a good stocky growth, and the soil in the pots will 

 be netted with an abundant growth of fibrous roots. 

 The plants are then set in the open garden, with a 

 clear start of a month over those just then being 

 planted. A few plants thus developed will supply 

 the needs of a family until the main crop comes in. 

 This plan cannot, of course, be followed on a large 

 scale without entailing much labor, but it is highly 

 recommended for the family garden. 



Pennsylvania. Archibald Rutledge. 



[Editor's Note: — Samples of the two strains 

 accompanied this note as evidence and seemed to fully 

 bear out the writers' claims. We grew the two strains 

 side by side last year with results like those described.] 



Winter Squash on Poor Land 



IT IS many years since I first began growing, on a 

 commercial scale, some of the various staple 

 vegetables — those that are commonly stored by 

 the forehanded city housewife for winter use, such 

 as carrots, squash, turnip, etc. — and I have always 

 been particularly successful in getting a good crop 

 of squash at small cost. In fact, some of my neigh- 

 bors have said I was a "squash wizard" because I 

 have succeeded with it on old wornout land. I am 

 convinced the secret of success is all in the method 

 of preparation, planting and cultivation. Three 

 seasons ago, two of my neighbors who were inter- 

 ested to adopt the same practices as I use, had about 

 as good a crop as I did. One of them, who grows all 

 kinds of vegetables for market, was so well pleased 

 with the results that he has adopted the system for 

 all his vine vegetables (cucumbers, muskmelon, 

 squash, etc.). Last year I grew 3,250 marketable 

 squash from five rows each 300 yards long. 



The method is not original with me; I "pinched" 

 it from a Yankee market-gardener in Connecticut 

 some years ago, and have never seen nor heard of 

 its use by other people in other sections - — except 

 the partially similar method employed by some of 

 the Northern Maryland pickle growers. 



In the spring, before plowing the field where I 

 have decided to have the squash, stable manure is 

 spread on top — not all over broadcast but in strips, 

 a couple of feet wide, just where the rows of squash 

 hills are to be. The application is heavy, as my 

 land is mostly old and worn out, and naturally 

 sandy. I believe a great many of the failures with 

 squash are due to insufficient plant food — a skimping 

 of fertilizer. The squash is a heavy feeder and must 

 have an abundance of available food to fruit satis- 

 factorily and to develop and mature its crop. 



After applying the manure as described, I plow 

 up on one side and down the other of the strip, 

 turning the furrows over the manure. Next I walk 

 down the centre of these strips lengthwise, and drop 

 two or three seeds in every footstep. Then the 

 remainder of the land — the strips between the 

 manured strips — is plowed, after which a light 

 smoothing harrow goes over it all, lengthwise of 

 the furrows. 



Later, after the squash plants are well up but 

 just before they begin to run, I plow again the same 

 way, right up to the row of plants, leaving a ridge 

 and a furrow between each row. This is all the 

 cultivation they get except one hand hoeing in the 



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