184 



THE GARDEN MAGAZINE 



April, 1914 



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V. Where the garden has partial shade, and spots exposed to the sunshine 



for one reason or another evergreens be 

 omitted, vines should be trained up the 

 fence and such bushes as the flowering 

 prune, quince, and almond, the low deut- 

 zia, the three little spireas — Thunbergi, 

 Anthony Waterer, callosa alba — Indian 

 currant, hypericum (St. John's wort), the 

 hardy azaleas, and bush roses massed in 

 tent. Between these perennials should be 

 /anted and a space left in front for low 

 fu Bering plants and spring bulbs. Pos- 

 s^biy a rigorously pruned syringa and Per- 

 r 1 1 ilac could be introduced in the cor- 

 -. The shrubs should practically be 

 ."•infiae.^ to the back bed, but along the 

 sides the red and yellow twigged dogwoods 



(Cornus sanguined and stolonifera) the rose 

 weigelia and the upright forsythia can be 

 pruned so that they will lie flat against the 

 fence in the manner of the European wall 

 shrubs. The original outlay will be some- 

 what more for such a scheme than for all 

 perennials and annuals, $25.00 to $35.00. 

 The time required for preparation and up- 

 keep would be the same. 



A much more effective planting could be 

 secured with evergreens. Five or six slim 

 red cedars make an excellent background. 

 In front of these some smaller conifers (the 

 more delicate junipers such as Irish, Swed- 

 ish and stricta, the Japanese yew, the finer 

 arborvitaes, the table pine) can be com- 



VI. For the city garden which has plenty of sunshine and not much air circulation, chiefly herbaceous perennials 



and annuals 



bined with the broadleaved evergreens,, 

 (holly, laurel, rhododendrons, daphne), 

 some berry bearing bushes (Leucothoe, 

 Indian currant, euonymus, barberry), 

 and the flowering shrubs mentioned above. 

 Great care must be taken to see that the 

 conifers, broadleaved evergreens and decid- 

 uous shrubs are well balanced. Such a 

 garden, with the flowering plants necessary 

 to give life and color and the vines — 

 clematis, rose, bittersweet, ivy and euony- 

 mus — would cost from $125 to $175.00. 

 Laid out as in the diagram it would require 

 an outlay of $150.00, of which $75.00 would 

 be for evergreens. It must not be for- 

 gotten though in considering the cost, that 

 shrubs are longer lived than plants and 

 that the expense in succeeding years would 

 be less than if the original outlay were a 

 smaller sum for perennials. 



Plan IV does not differ radically from 

 Plan III, but combines a flower bed and a 

 shrubbery. It is particularly adapted for 

 a garden in which the boundaries are 

 shaded or which has a northern exposure. 

 As the shrubbery is smaller than in III, it 

 would cost less to fill it — $15 for decidu- 

 ous shrubs only and $25 to $30 for a fair 

 number of evergreens. If the exposure be 

 northern and the shrubbery be confined to 

 rhododendrons, ferns, lilies, and a few peren- 

 nials it could be well filled for $20.00. Few 

 plants suitable for bedding thrive in partial 

 shade but tuberous rooted begonias (about 

 $2.00 a dozen) demand it, and if the shade 

 be not too heavy salvia does well. 



Plan V does not differ essentially from IV,, 

 and the suggestions for the planting of the 

 latter hold for this. It is admirably 

 adapted for a partially shaded garden, one 

 in which the sun is cut off from the backbed, 

 which may be filled with rhododendrons 

 fern and laurel, but shines on the large 

 front bed which may be stocked with 

 clumps of flowering plants for it is so large 

 that the medium perennials like sweet 

 William, gaillardia and Canterbury bells 

 may well be used. The very narrow side 

 borders may be filled with iris which is 

 beautiful when in bloom and not shabby 

 during the rest of the season. The approxi- 

 mate cost of such a garden would be $25.00. 



Plan VI offers the gardener plenty of 

 scope for growing different kinds of plants. 

 It is the best plan for the garden which 

 receives plenty of sun but has not a good 

 circulation of air. The plants in this 

 design are kept clear of the fence yet the 

 back path is so narrow that in summer at 

 least, it would not be noticed. This plan 

 has the added advantage of permitting the 

 gardener to cultivate his beds from all 

 sides. Perennials and annuals are best 

 adapted for this design since even the back 

 bed is rather small for shrubs. With 

 white pebble paths, a backbed filled with 

 perennials, box-edged front beds, the two 

 centre ones filled with monthly roses, the 

 other two with stocks, snapdragons, helio- 

 trope and mignonette, this garden would 

 be not only pretty but picturesque. The 

 cost would not exceed $35.00 of which at 

 least $10 would be for box and $8 for roses. 



